On my Blazer with the front D60, I think we've figured out where the number 60 comes from: because you hit the rocks 60% of the time...
Just need bigger tires
You shouldn't 'need' a 60 unless your running something 37" and larger.
Land Cruiser vs Dana 60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nukegoat
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Just need bigger tires
You shouldn't 'need' a 60 unless your running something 37" and larger.
You're still used to a locked center diff Being able to lock and unlock the center diff makes an auto locker pretty easy in the rear and a detroit is more bullet proof.
Being able to lock and unlock the center diff makes an auto locker pretty easy in the rear and a detroit is more bullet proof.You're still used to a locked center diff
I know where you coming from, but I still say no
I am interested to play with the ability to open the center diff....but on my hybrid I will basically have selectable lockers in all 3 locations. I want the front axle to be doing more of the 'work'. The rear axle can only push. It has no ability to turn (typically). The only thing fancy that happens with a Detroit is that one tire can turn faster ( without any power delivery) than the other IF the surface has enough traction to allow it. The front axle is pulling AND can steer. The other interesting thing is that the REAR axle actually sees a far greater speed differential from tire to tire when turning VS the front. This is generally because the rear tires follow a tighter arc than the front tires....even though they are doing the turning.
The other issue I fight with a rear auto locker ( or spool ) is that when trying to climb off-camber the rear axle wants to walk down the hill. Sometimes this is nice IF you WANT the rear axle to slide down to help 'level' the chassis, but other times it is VERY annoying and dangerous when you WANT the rear axle not to fall down the hill, off the cliff, or whatever. These are situations where open/open aren't going to cut it either.
I generally refer to most of this as the 3-wheel problem. If the terrain is hard enough to require at least one locker, but having both ends locked doesn't allow the maneuverability you need.
Given the option of only having ONE selectable locker, I would stick it in the back and the automatic in the front in almost every case. I can see that this could cause some handling issues in a full time 4wd vehicle. In those cases, I would lean heavily towards running a selectable locker in both ends. I really really don't like running a rear automatic locker generally. Some people aren't bothered by it, I don't like the quirks.
Plus. If you have a rear detroit you can't play with cutting/turning/fiddle brakes on the rear axle
Again....another topic....
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- #44
I know where you coming from, but I still say no
I want the front axle to be doing more of the 'work'. The rear axle can only push. It has no ability to turn (typically). The only thing fancy that happens with a Detroit is that one tire can turn faster ( without any power delivery) than the other IF the surface has enough traction to allow it. The front axle is pulling AND can steer. The other interesting thing is that the REAR axle actually sees a far greater speed differential from tire to tire when turning VS the front. This is generally because the rear tires follow a tighter arc than the front tires....even though they are doing the turning.
The other issue I fight with a rear auto locker ( or spool ) is that when trying to climb off-camber the rear axle wants to walk down the hill. Sometimes this is nice IF you WANT the rear axle to slide down to help 'level' the chassis, but other times it is VERY annoying and dangerous when you WANT the rear axle not to fall down the hill, off the cliff, or whatever. These are situations where open/open aren't going to cut it either.
I generally refer to most of this as the 3-wheel problem. If the terrain is hard enough to require at least one locker, but having both ends locked doesn't allow the maneuverability you need.
Given the option of only having ONE selectable locker, I would stick it in the back and the automatic in the front in almost every case. I can see that this could cause some handling issues in a full time 4wd vehicle. In those cases, I would lean heavily towards running a selectable locker in both ends. I really really don't like running a rear automatic locker generally. Some people aren't bothered by it, I don't like the quirks.
Plus. If you have a rear detroit you can't play with cutting/turning/fiddle brakes on the rear axle
Agree here.
My front axle cracked again after expensive workshop welding using ultraviolet scanning and welding using the gas pipe welding equipment. It cost me a fortune and result is it cracked along the repair weld seam.
TLC 80 front axle not just bends but also shatters as the glass. And it is 9 out of 10 TLCs I have seen. I am really looking for custom made out of drilling pipes with wall thickness of 23mm. And laser cut pumpkin housing. There is no reason to repair what keeps just shattering.
TLCs front axles are junk IMHO
Pic is not mine, but it is soooooo common for 70-80-105s
TLC 80 front axle not just bends but also shatters as the glass. And it is 9 out of 10 TLCs I have seen. I am really looking for custom made out of drilling pipes with wall thickness of 23mm. And laser cut pumpkin housing. There is no reason to repair what keeps just shattering.
TLCs front axles are junk IMHO
Pic is not mine, but it is soooooo common for 70-80-105s
That looks like more of a gas pedal problem and not so much an axle problem to me.
Hey, just sayin'
Jebus, what do you even have to do to cause that much damage? I've seen 80's after head on collisions that weren't damaged as bad as that!
Hey, just sayin'
Jebus, what do you even have to do to cause that much damage? I've seen 80's after head on collisions that weren't damaged as bad as that!
I can assure you it is not gas pedal problem. It is very common problem of all TLCs around here. Some of them after weld repairs do well some not, just keep shattering. I was not in the list of lucky ones.
Trail Gear unfortunately does not make direct replacement axles for 80s. I do not want to buy a new axle which will shatter again in couple of years.
I do not believe that using rear axle housing is going to make it any stronger. So right now I have an idea to build it from sketch and make normal strong axle.
Trail Gear unfortunately does not make direct replacement axles for 80s. I do not want to buy a new axle which will shatter again in couple of years.
I do not believe that using rear axle housing is going to make it any stronger. So right now I have an idea to build it from sketch and make normal strong axle.
Possibly upgrade to a Diamond or Ruffstuff custom fabricated housing, been eyeballing a 609 setup. Dana 60 outers and Ford 9" center section, only problem with a custom housing is that if your in that far then might as well fabricate a new suspension to go with it... $$$$
Perhaps something like this might be more suited to whatever conditions are breaking your axles?
Now days it is easy, plasma cutting tables are common. The main thing is to cut the diff housing and then attach tubes. I do not think it is something really difficult. Especially if you turn in the old axle to a good shop and ask them to replicate it with your demands, thicker wall tubes, thicker housing.
Last time when I took my axle it was actually oil and gas company's workshop, they scanned it for micro cracks, cut all the brackets out pretty much assembling a new axle. By the irony I do have even weld seams test certificate. I should not have spend that much money to repair it was almost cost of a new stock axle. The metal used by Toyota for axles is not good.
Lesson is learned hard way. I talked to the same specialist who did the axle, his verdict is most likely metal fatigue. And his suggestion to use for the axle housing the tubes used in drilling for oil. I do not know what it means at all, he said S-135 grade steel will outlast anything in your TLC. So I guess I need to look for chunk of that steel to cut out the diff housing. Tubes they do have plenty.
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Known issue, especially with the Aussies. That's why Toyota sent engineers to study the longevity of the 80 series in Australia before final design and release of the 105 series to the Oceania market and NGO market. The axle housings were upgraded on the 105 series with the front control arm bracket set-ups.
Whether that did anything or not, I really don't know.
Whether that did anything or not, I really don't know.
Do you have a more zoomed out picture of where this would be on the axle? or where the common failure points are?
Right side crack usually starts on control arm bracket inner (center side) at the point where it attaches to axle itself. And then the bracket cracks in half, sheer force then does the rest, ripping the pieces of axle out.
Toyota did not fixed the problem on 105s, it is exactly the same point same issue. What Toyota engineers could do is just replace the stamped axle with tubed style and problem would be gone as the same as easy bending.
I will post pictures next week, I will do the temporary repair until I work out what to do.
Toyota did not fixed the problem on 105s, it is exactly the same point same issue. What Toyota engineers could do is just replace the stamped axle with tubed style and problem would be gone as the same as easy bending.
I will post pictures next week, I will do the temporary repair until I work out what to do.
Interesting. Lots of Aussies I've chatted with said that the Toyota folks did upgrade the axle housings for the 105.
And that part is available in the US market since the part number supersedes to the 105 housing version.
Then again, I'm not in Australia and don't know if the sampling of 105 owners to actual breakage is correct.
But the places of fatigue and breakage are indeed where you point them out to be.
There is another theory of FA failure. It was designed for RHDs and point of attachment of pannhard rod on LHD and RHD is visa versa. And LHD is right side of the axle. Why I am saying this, is this problem is common for RHDs as well, but a lot less than LHDs.
The picture shown above is 105 LHD
Aussies are special clients of toyota, they get what even we do not get as 76/79 TLCs with 4.5 CRD and all other goodies.
The picture shown above is 105
LHDAussies are special clients of toyota, they get what even we do not get as 76/79 TLCs with 4.5 CRD
and all other goodies.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Toyota made only slight modifications to the 80/105 hoursing. Mostly better welding around the brackets and control arm mounts. But the minor mods they did, will not prevent the cracking of the housing itself.
And @beno - I think the year you came last to Rubithon, Rick's axle housing cracked just like the pic above and we had to weld it up while you were "making dinner" with Alvaro.
And @beno - I think the year you came last to Rubithon, Rick's axle housing cracked just like the pic above and we had to weld it up while you were "making dinner" with Alvaro.
Correct Andy. Mine cracked as well at the brackets. I think Robbie's broke that year as well.
Holy crap!
I apologise for not understanding the problem, but here in the states we see rigs with 200,000-400,000 MILES on them without this kind of issue. Or at least it is pretty uncommon in rigs that don't get wheeled as hard as some. I guess our roads here are nowhere near as bad as we think they are!
I apologise for not understanding the problem, but here in the states we see rigs with 200,000-400,000 MILES on them without this kind of issue. Or at least it is pretty uncommon in rigs that don't get wheeled as hard as some. I guess our roads here are nowhere near as bad as we think they are!
That would be my guess. There is a lot of force being applied on those brackets during articulation. Suspension is trying to flex, radius arms are trying to hold everything in place. Lots of twisting. Weak link seems to be the axle tube.
