While you're in there: Gas tank refresh, rear axle housing swap, radiator core support replace (1 Viewer)

[Beej]

Hey folks,

I'm about to dive into a few bigger projects that will kick off my real 80 build thread. Here are the while you're in theres I've thought of for each job. What's missing?

Gas tank replace/refresh:
- New tank straps
- New seals
- New valve
- New clamps for hoses
- New fuel sock

Rear axle housing swap (rebuilt the rear axle a few months ago; this will be swapping the guts into a new housing):
- New crush washers for diff
- New paper gaskets
- Already have new bearings back there
- Rebuilt the e-brake already

Radiator core support replacement (this:Radiator Core Support FJ80 , FZJ80 & LX450 - $250.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts) The whole front face of the truck needs to come off, seems like.
- New belts (mine aren't OEM)
- New radiator foam
- Clean radiator
- Would fuel filter be easy with this piece removed? Already did oil pump cover seal and crank shaft seal.

Thanks for your input. I'm going to put in an order to @beno but I'd rather just have it be one order! haha

Thanks in advance for any replies.

-- Beej

 

[SmokingRocks]

I would go ahead and swap in a new OEM fuel pump too. Infact I would also suggest taking the upper intake manifold off to service the fuel injectors, take them out and send them in for cleaning. I noticed a big boost in power when had mine cleaned and rebuilt.

 

[Beej]

I may pass on the fuel pump just because it's accessible through the cabin, although you're right. It's a great while you're in there.

For the injectors, what's involved in sending them out for cleaning? Sending then to local dealer or...?

 

[SmokingRocks]

Uhhh nope... it totally is accessible through the cabin, and if you are putting a new fuel sock on it then you will literally be taking the pump out as the sock is practically on the intake of the pump.

 

[Beej]

That's what I said

 

[Hornd]

If you apply the logic of "It's old replace it", then every moving part should be changed out.
Fuel Pumps and Water Pumps have been known to go 400K untouched.
I'd save your money as both can be changed in a few hours.

Here's my write up for Fuel Sock:
Changing Replacing Fuel Sock Steps
I ended up reusing gasket but the little bolts were too far corroded. Be very careful and leave doors open to vent vapors.
Don't want this to be your last post.

If straps are corroded I would make a set out of stainless unless OEM was cheap.
If fuel sock is real clean then your filter downstream is likely clean too and that is a real job to replace.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Not to stir the nest but I don't agree with the 'if the sock is clean your filter is probably fine' logic. The sock stops big chunks from being sucked up by the pump it does not filter the gas to the same level the actual filter does.

My sock looked pretty good but when I got to my filter bits of nasty fell out of it. The guy who rebuilt my injectors said he had not seen injector filters as dirty as mine were in a long time. (Yes even your injectors have screen filters).

 

[Hornd]

Not to stir the nest but I don't agree with the 'if the sock is clean your filter is probably fine' logic. The sock stops big chunks from being sucked up by the pump it does not filter the gas to the same level the actual filter does.

My sock looked pretty good but when I got to my filter bits of nasty fell out of it. The guy who rebuilt my injectors said he had not seen injector filters as dirty as mine were in a long time. (Yes even your injectors have screen filters).

Ironic, I changed my filter sock, have not changed the fuel filter, and I removed my injectors and the screens were clean.

 

[kruisinkid]

since you live in the northeast, plan on new front body mounts and all associated hardware when you take off the rad support. mine were almost an entire rusted chunk. use tons of antiseize when reassembly.

when i did my rad support earlier this summer it also did:
changed oil and filter, mobil 1 syn HM and wix 51515
replaced valve cover gasket, OEM
replaced water pump, aisin
replaced fan clutch, aisin modded blue with 20k
replaced all heater hoses, silicone and gates
replaced PHH with silicone
repalced HCV, denso
replaced condenser, denso
replaced drier, denso
recharged AC system
replaced battery, bosch AGM 24f
replaced radiator, koyo a1918
greased all yokes and U joints
replaced front body mounts
replaced air intake tube with good used OEM
replaced fuel filter, oem
cleaned throttle body
replaced spark plug wires, NGK
replaced spark plug tube seals, OEM
topped off birfs
replaced dizzy o ring, oem

i will say the water pump should last forever. it is just a propeller moving the water. water doesnt move through the pump itself so wont corrode. fuel filter is no where near any of the rad support stuff. accessed from under the intake and through the left wheel well with splash skirt removed. non oem front body mounts can be had on ebay for about 15$ each versus 75 each OEM.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Ironic, I changed my filter sock, have not changed the fuel filter, and I removed my injectors and the screens were clean.

I'm not saying all will be like mine, just that you should not take the sock as a direct indicator.

That said, I know toyota's service schedule calls for my URJ200 to get a new fuel filter every 80,000 miles and a new pump every 180,000 miles, straight out of Mr. T's book.. Overkill? Maybe but what isn't overkill in the land cruiser world?

 

[Hornd]

since you live in the northeast, plan on new front body mounts and all associated hardware when you take off the rad support. mine were almost an entire rusted chunk. use tons of antiseize when reassembly.

when i did my rad support earlier this summer it also did:
changed oil and filter, mobil 1 syn HM and wix 51515
replaced valve cover gasket, OEM
replaced water pump, aisin
replaced fan clutch, aisin modded blue with 20k
replaced all heater hoses, silicone and gates
replaced PHH with silicone
repalced HCV, denso
replaced condenser, denso
replaced drier, denso
recharged AC system
replaced battery, bosch AGM 24f
replaced radiator, koyo a1918
greased all yokes and U joints
replaced front body mounts
replaced air intake tube with good used OEM
replaced fuel filter, oem
cleaned throttle body
replaced spark plug wires, NGK
replaced spark plug tube seals, OEM
topped off birfs
replaced dizzy o ring, oem

i will say the water pump should last forever. it is just a propeller moving the water. water doesnt move through the pump itself so wont corrode. fuel filter is no where near any of the rad support stuff. accessed from under the intake and through the left wheel well with splash skirt removed. non oem front body mounts can be had on ebay for about 15$ each versus 75 each OEM.

Valve Cover Gasket or PCV and Grommet?
Oil Pump Cover or Crank seal?
Coolant Flush and Fill?

How hard was it to do the Motor Mounts. Were the removed ones bad?

 

[Beej]

@kruisinkid you are the man!

That's a long list of stuff but I can search around and decide what's going to be while you're in there for me and what I've already done or can put off. Thank you!!!!

 

[Beej]

Coolant flush and refill is on the list.

I don't know how the body mounts will be but the reason I'm replacing the radiator support is there is a rust hole in mine. Its right next to the body mount so I'm likely screwed in that department.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm not saying all will be like mine, just that you should not take the sock as a direct indicator.

The 1FZ injectors that we have done, all came back with only a couple of percent change, if any, in other words, didn't needed it. Have never seen a clogged sock on an '80. Maybe our gas is better?

That said, I know toyota's service schedule calls for my URJ200 to get a new fuel filter every 80,000 miles and a new pump every 180,000 miles, straight out of Mr. T's book.. Overkill? Maybe but what isn't overkill in the land cruiser world?

But that rig is more related to a Highlander than an '80,,, so?

 

[SmokingRocks]

Ouch... guess you haven't seen a 200 off road huh?. Way better than the 100, still not an 80 but its still a lot of fun.

Ok back to regular programming now.

 

[kruisinkid]

Valve Cover Gasket or PCV and Grommet?
Oil Pump Cover or Crank seal?
Coolant Flush and Fill?

How hard was it to do the Motor Mounts. Were the removed ones bad?

i did the valve cover. did the pcv and grommet 2 years ago. no time for oil pump cover, did the flush and fill

i did the front most body mounts, not the motor mounts. the shear rated bolts that are about 175mm long were rusted to the rad support and inside the body mount itself. i sawzalled the bolt. the giant washer is not threaded on the bolt. it will just be rusted. a hammer helps. but i would just trash the whole assmbly and buy new.