OIL CONSUMPTION (1 Viewer)

[landonridge]

My 95 LC is at 299K. I have fixed all oil leaks and it is still using oil at 2-3 quarts per 1000miles. it has started smoking a lot more out of the rear exhaust. I have used Mobile 1 synthetic and also Rotella. IS there an oil or an additive I can add to help extend the life of the motor?

 

[veeLC]

My 95 LC is at 299K. I have fixed all oil leaks and it is still using oil at 2-3 quarts per 1000miles. it has started smoking a lot more out of the rear exhaust. I have used Mobile 1 synthetic and also Rotella. IS there an oil or an additive I can add to help extend the life of the motor?

Sounds like you should be planning on rebuilding the head if not replacing the whole block soon. Additives are a band aid and not intended for long term remedy.

 

[baldilocks]

When exactly are you seeing the blue smoke? Start up? Or constantly? Compression test it yet? Has this been developing gradually or did consumption spike as of lately?

 

[landonridge]

It smokes at start up sometimes and sometimes just sitting at idle. NO compressions test and call me crazy because its like it will use oil real bad for a while and then it seems to decrease. How much is a rebuild ?

 

[veeLC]

It smokes at start up sometimes and sometimes just sitting at idle. NO compressions test and call me crazy because its like it will use oil real bad for a while and then it seems to decrease. How much is a rebuild ?

Depending on the area you live and what level of labor you're willing and able to do I'd say $2k parts and machining you provide labor. Tack on about $700-$900 if someone else does it.

Use the search feature in the upper right "engine rebuild".

Another option is maybe look for rebuilt motors in your area. Peace.

 

[Howard705]

Or search for valve guide seal replacement theads-seems to be a common oil sucking problem when they go bad with those symptoms-and can do HG at the same time.

 

[baldilocks]

If you rev the engine and then see blue smoke drift out the tail pipe as the engine RPM returns to idle then its valve guides for sure. I also suggest connecting a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the port on the block and verify what your oil pressure is. This will give you a clue as to the amount of bearing wear. This info can be factored in to your ultimate decision on the extent of rebuilding you choose to do. If the compression test checks out good and you still have decent cross hatching on the cylinder walls perhaps a valve job is enough. There are plenty of 1fz's out there still running well with more miles than your has. Keep us in the loop. Cheers

 

[landonridge]

if I leave the car idling for a while and then put it in gear...I get a lot of smoke.

 

[NCFJ]

Lots of club members near you https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/nc-olde-north-state-cruisers.54/

By far the best club I have ever been part of. Lots of guys that know these engines very well.

 

[Gabriel 71]

I had a 92 yota pick up, had the head decked and forgot to give machinist valve seals to install.said f.it out it back together and at idle smoke a little until you give it some push water(gas) and I could kill mosquitos for half a mile radius from the oil smoke coming out that tail pipe.same symptom as you describe

 

[BILT4ME]

Blue smoke = oil in combustion chamber:
If it smokes under acceleration = rings
If it smokes at start-up = valve seals
If it smokes under DEceleration = valve seals

White smoke = coolant in combustion chamber

Also check/replace your PCV valve and grommet.

 

[half k cruiser]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-head-gasket-engine-rebuild-cost-breakdown.820707/ should give you an idea of what it will cost to re seal, new rings, new bearings, etc.

 

[kybishop]

I have similar symptoms on my 1994. Kind of perplexed with it myself. I will be interested to see what this thread comes up with.

Only smokes (blueish) at start up briefly and when I take off from sitting at an idle. Just a puff then gone. Running down the highway no smoke at all (that I can see) but that is when it consumes it the most.

Not long ago I drove on the highway at about 60 mph, this was an hour long trip. My oil light came on, surprised me cause I just topped it off not long before. It consumed about a quart in that hours drive. I thought I just was mistaken when I topped it off...

I then took a drive on the interstate with my wife following me, we were taking a trip and needed to take my son his car. An hour down the road my oil light came on. Yep, consumed another quart. Put a quart in and drove straight home and it consumed another quart on the trip home. My wife was right behind me the whole trip and said it was not smoking at all that she noticed. Didn't see it or smell it.

My oil is clean and my coolant is clean as well.

What I have found is that I have oil leaking out of my air intake to my throttle body. I have taken this all apart as I am going to clean out the intake manifold and get rid of the EGR system. This will be mainly an off road/farm vehicle now... Anyway, PCV valve is fairly new and the hoses too. I will have to check it again though. When I opened up the air intake at the throttle body oil is pooling at the bottom of the throttle body air intake.

I don't know, seems I have the same symptoms as the OP and this may be something to do with the PCV or ????. Maybe not as serious as needing a rebuild? Not burning it, consuming it somewhere or pushing it out. Mine is leaking down out of the air intake and all over the manifold cover. Didn't look like a quart though...

Lastly, it has about 185,000 miles on it and does not consume near as much driving it around town.

 

[cruiserdan]

At ~300,000 miles the engine's life cycle is at the rebuild point. Opening it up and doing less than that is a poor use of resources in my view. Drive it as-is keeping an eye on oil level, find a low-mileage used motor or rebuild the original.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Mine started drinking oil to the tune of a quart about every ~1000-1500 miles due to worn valve seals sometime last year

Gave me a good smoke show after long idling periods, but would clear up at the first stab of the throttle

Put off replacing the valve seals due to starting a new job and the head eventually got coked up so bad with oil residue that I ended up smoking an exhaust valve

My 405,xxx mile valve job....

Had lost compression in #2, but the head gasket was in great shape for 405,xxx miles

Cleaned up the head, replaced the exhaust valves, seals, guides, etc.

Now there's ZERO smoke and she doesn't burn a drop between her 5k oil change intervals


If your head gasket is in good order and you don't feel like pulling the head, I'd suggest replacing just the valve seals before sumthin small becomes sumthin big

 

[rc51kid]

Sounds like you should be planning on rebuilding the head if not replacing the whole block soon. Additives are a band aid and not intended for long term remedy.

Hell spent 2000 on a head rebuild and some extras on a head rebuild using OEM stuff and my own labor. But at 220,000 the bore looks perfect. And now it does not use a drop of oil between 5000 oil changes.

 

[Comet]

I'm getting ready to either try the valve seals or have it done. The seals can be done on the truck; whereas, the guides involve taking the head off. My compression was at 182 average, with all cylinders within 4 lbs. Good luck and keep everyone posted on your progress.

 

[KliersLC]

I have the same issue. Smoke after prolonged idling when I take off, bu none any other time. Any definitive diagnosis on this?

 

[Red Merle]

If you rev the engine and then see blue smoke drift out the tail pipe as the engine RPM returns to idle then its valve guides for sure. I also suggest connecting a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the port on the block and verify what your oil pressure is. This will give you a clue as to the amount of bearing wear. This info can be factored in to your ultimate decision on the extent of rebuilding you choose to do. If the compression test checks out good and you still have decent cross hatching on the cylinder walls perhaps a valve job is enough. There are plenty of 1fz's out there still running well with more miles than your has. Keep us in the loop. Cheers

So, let"s assume this is accurate information(and it does sound accurate) but I don't know how to do this or have the tools needed to be sure I am doing it right. If we handed a mechanic this post, would they be able to understand exactly what needs to be done? Can you send these heads off somewhere? I don't trust the mechanics in my area to do a good job and I take care of other tasks with the truck, but I know I don't feel comfortable doing this work.

What would you do in that case?

 

[Red Merle]

At ~300,000 miles the engine's life cycle is at the rebuild point. Opening it up and doing less than that is a poor use of resources in my view. Drive it as-is keeping an eye on oil level, find a low-mileage used motor or rebuild the original.

You say we should rebuild every 300,000, three times, for a total of a million miles.

OK, so I have 252,000 and this is heading my way and I want to keep the truck. How does one find competent re-builders? I don't trust the techs at my local dealership and the parts department must be dealing in Canadian dollars, because they aren't even close to being on point with their parts department pricing.

I can take the s*** off and send it somewhere, but where?

I live in the Twin Ports of Superior, WI and Duluth, MN. I could throw it on train or truck or ship, no problem.