Need help diagnosing Front end clunk (12 Viewers)

[midfat]

I also snapped two of my knuckle studs off. Here's the thread with pics. I'd recommend repacking the birf to ensure you don't have a blown inner axle seal. Since the studs thread into the birf cavity, if there's oil in there, it will penetrate down into the threads and make it difficult to maintain torque load on the stud.

 

[82much]

Is it a clunk or a repetitive sound? My tires were tapping against the front locker harness, so check that?

A repetitive clunk.
No lockers...

 

[SmokingRocks]

brake pads lacking all of their hardware? Most people ditch the abutment clips ect and don't realize that their pads jingle around in the carriers without them.

 

[izzyandsue]

HRTROB, if you can reach under the truck grab the front sway bar and pull/push on it. I had a similar situation and found the front sway bushings (the rear ones) where pretty worn out. Cheap part, replaced one at a time and it was fairly easy.

 

[HRTROB]

Izzyandsue,

I replaced all four sway bar bushings three weeks ago. Still clunking

 

[mikaelrules]

I'm from the Philippines also kabayan

Thanks for the heads up. I'll go ahead and replace those bushings since they might be toast.

Nice! If you're from Manila and still can't find the source of the clUnk, let me know. I know a few mechanics who know the 80 inside and out who could have a look at it.

Btw, is that rust or mud on your steering knuckle?

 

[HRTROB]

Nice! If you're from Manila and still can't find the source of the clUnk, let me know. I know a few mechanics who know the 80 inside and out who could have a look at it.

Btw, is that rust or mud on your steering knuckle?

Thanks for the offer Mikaerules! I'll contact you regarding your mechanic if my truck is still clunking after all the repairs. That's thick mud in the photos

All the parts are finally here. I'm going to replace all eight rear upper and lower arm bushings, front radius arm bushings (the ones that connect the arm to the frame), tie rod ends and drag link ends. Also the front right knuckle studs to replace the two that have already sheared off. Hopefully the clunk will be gone!

 

[cordrayj1]

Anxious to hear your results. I have a clunk that just began as wel.

 

[skyline223]

I'll also be awaiting your report. I have the same clunk and it started just after installing the exact same man-a-fre suspension....

 

[normiex]

I had a bump induced knock and it turned out to be the shock absorber being loose, might be worth checking out. I checked every nut, bolt and bush under the car before popping the bonnet to find it.

 

[normiex]

I had a bump induced knock and it turned out to be the shock absorber being loose, might be worth checking out. I checked every nut, bolt and bush under the car before popping the bonnet to find it.

 

[HRTROB]

Decided to fix the sheared knuckle studs myself and now I am stuck. The two studs broke somewhere in the middle of the threaded part and not flush on the knuckle. I managed to screw in both broken studs to get them out from inside the knuckle, but they froze just right before the end of the hole. The studs now have enough exposed area to weld a nut from inside the knuckle.

Second problem is that the studs don't seem to want to thread in easily to three of the four holes. Even with all the birf grease in there. I can only thread in a stud by hand into one of the holes. With the other three, they are very tight to turn. I'm worried I might strip the threads or break the studs. Are they supposed to be that hard to thread in?

This is where the studs broke. Hard to weld a nut with the studs deep in like that so I turned them further in until they got stuck further down

 

[skyline223]

Seems to me a reverse drill bit followed by an easy-out should fish those studs out of there. You may have to chase the threads with a tap to get the new studs to thread properly.

 

[normiex]

I imagine that the end of the stud is squashed/chewed up now and reversing direction may no longer be an option, in that case you can drill out the stud starting with a small drill making sure you in the dead centre and then working your way up. You shouldn't have to drill the whole stud out just relieve the tension on the thread.


Or if you can you grind/cut the chewed up end of the stud off and use and easyout

 

[HRTROB]

Got the sheared studs off and the new ones in. Ran into another problem. I can't attach the steering arm to the lower studs because the brake rotor and dust shield are in the way. I did the "camo method" and took off the whole knuckle and brake assembly attached together. Any ideas?

 

[HRTROB]

A little update. I replaced the sheared knuckle studs over the weekend. Truck was still clunking when driving over speed bumps or driveways. Fast forward to today, I left the house and it was still clunking. On my way home I noticed that the clunk was gone. No clunk at all no matter how slow or fast I drive over the speed bumps. Feels like a new car I don't know why the sound went away. All I know is that while driving this morning, I heard a loud sound coming from the engine. It would go away when I switched the AC off so I knew it had something to do with the compressor drive. I then parked the car in an uneven dirt parking lot and saw the seized AC tensioner pulley. I loosened the tensioner and drove the car without AC on. I don't know how a seized AC tensioner could cause clunking over bumps. Maybe driving on the uneven dirt parking lot dislodged whatever was clunking?