87 FJ60 GM 6.2 Sidewinder Turbo Swap (1 Viewer)

[antichrist]

I have been staring at potential diesels to bolt to my recently new H55 that would meet some simple criteria: target HPs around 200HP and 280 to 300 ftLbs, around 25 or so MPG, must have great reliability and access to parts. I was looking at a 12ht or 1HDT. These provide great reliability and carry on the original all toyota theme I have been doing as I rehab my 60. The relative scarcity of these engines, the cost and the increasing lack of parts is troublesome. I have a good friend that has a 35,000 mile military (J) 6.2 Detroit in a very low mileage army truck. He is going to a big block - the engine will be free to me.

Looks like the following is needed:

1. Tranny Adapter - Marks has that
2. Tach adapter - Marks again
3. New clutch - GM diesel clutch
4. The Banks Sidewinder kit - Banks
5. Convert the timing chain to a gear drive- Found the Phazerkit option
6. will strengthen main bearings with the DSG girdle kit
7. replace glow plugs
8. 12 v starter converstion
9. replace injeection pump solenoid (24 to 12v)
10. Engine mounts- gm diesel mounts- I'll build the structure

Questions and asks for help:

1. Do I need a single serpentine belt to make clearence to radiator
2. Will the stock radiator work? Seems like an oil cooler is a good idea
3. Do I need a reverse flow radiator and/or fan?
4. I have a feeling that the Marks Adapter may put the engine into the steering box/linkage- anyone using a MArks (diesel or gasser) have exepreince with this?
5. Anyone put a banks turbo in a 60 and does it fit? and how?
6. I would love to see a good detailed thread of a turbo's 6.2 in a 60- any help there?

As I move forward, i'll be glad to document my progress. Some help on the tribal knowledge would be great

 

[antichrist]

I have been staring at potential diesels to bolt to my recently new H55 that would meet some simple criteria: target HPs around 200HP and 280 to 300 ftLbs, around 25 or so MPG, must have great reliability and access to parts. I was looking at a 12ht or 1HDT. These provide great reliability and carry on the original all toyota theme I have been doing as I rehab my 60. The relative scarcity of these engines, the cost and the increasing lack of parts is troublesome. I have a good friend that has a 35,000 mile military (J) 6.2 Detroit in a very low mileage army truck. He is going to a big block - the engine will be free to me.

Looks like the following is needed:

1. Tranny Adapter - Marks has that
2. Tach adapter - Marks again
3. New clutch - GM diesel clutch
4. The Banks Sidewinder kit - Banks
5. Convert the timing chain to a gear drive- Found the Phazerkit option
6. will strengthen main bearings with the DSG girdle kit
7. replace glow plugs
8. 12 v starter converstion
9. replace injeection pump solenoid (24 to 12v)
10. Engine mounts- gm diesel mounts- I'll build the structure

Questions and asks for help:

1. Do I need a single serpentine belt to make clearence to radiator
2. Will the stock radiator work? Seems like an oil cooler is a good idea
3. Do I need a reverse flow radiator and/or fan?
4. I have a feeling that the Marks Adapter may put the engine into the steering box/linkage- anyone using a MArks (diesel or gasser) have exepreince with this?
5. Anyone put a banks turbo in a 60 and does it fit? and how?
6. I would love to see a good detailed thread of a turbo's 6.2 in a 60- any help there?

As I move forward, i'll be glad to document my progress. Some help on the tribal knowledge would be great

Corretion on Q3"....reverse flow water pump..'

 

[Dougal]

You won't get 25 USMPG with a 6.2 V8 diesel in a landcruiser. The IDI engines just aren't efficient enough. Look at the 1HZ MPG numbers and reduce them a bit for the extra friction and heat loss of 2 more cylinders. That's the MPG to expect.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I agree, you won't see 25mpg. You may get 20, but not more.

As for fitment, all of the dimensions should be very close to that of a small block chevy.

Looking at this chart, your power goals are easily attainable. Click on the "proof" button.

Banks Power | 82-93 Chevy/GMC - 6.2L>>Sidewinder® Turbo System

Cool video from '89 when this system was new(ish):



Looking at this picture, the turbo is on the PS side, so you should have plenty of room for it in the engine bay. The only point of concern will be the exhaust pipe that runs from the DS of the motor to the turbo, but based on some googling, it may clear anyway:

Go for it!

 

[gerg]

Also....after spending several years in the army I can tell you mileage is no measurement of the condition of an military engine. I've seen guys getting air with a 6wheel Duce transports and completely smash spring packs. Starting the engine cold and bumping the rev limiter to warm it up fast is not uncommon. I would get a compression check and oil pressure at operating temp to see what it's like, especially hot idle pressure. Who knows, it could have been cared for by intelligent, kind and respectful troops. I wouldn't count on it though.

 

[FL cruiser]

The Marks adapter motor mounts will put the exh manifold into the steering box. It puts the engine 3" left of center. About the same as where the 2F sits. Some people have put their 6.2's at center to clear the steering box, but it does put the transfer case shifter right of it's hole in the floorboard into the downward slope. Not that big a deal to modify the floorboard I guess.

I put my engine 1 1/2" left of center to keep from cutting the floorboard and sandwiched a 3/4" steel plate between the steering box and frame to move the steering box over so the exhaust manifold would clear.

I moved my engine 3" forward and there was still room for fan clutch, steel fan and stock Landcruiser radiator. That was using a stock 6.2 belt setup. The stock radiator cooled the 6.2 just fine, even in the Florida heat in traffic.

The stock V belt setup used on the 6.2's is kind of lame. The belts stretch out and need frequent replacing. If you do use the V belts, I have part#'s for the rare uncommon belt profile/size that part stores don't carry that will at least last a year or more. I'll dig it up for you if you go that route.

I took the guts out of the 2F distributer and put them in the 6.2's vacuum pump, the type that goes on the back of the engine, to make the tach work.

Gas engine motor mounts do just as good a job as the diesel mounts isolating vibrations and are much cheaper.

If you do lots of interstate driving I would rethink using the H55 behind a diesel. The H55 only has a 15% OD. It's ok if you have 35" or bigger tires, but anything smaller the diesel sounds like it's over revving at speeds over 65 MPH. Don't get me wrong the 6.2 will rev and cruise faster, but over 2250 RPM the noise level goes up, the fuel mileage drops dramatically and it just doesn't feel normal.

I had a Banks kit and never got around to putting it on. I found a couple of people that had put regular GM4 turbo setups on their 60's. Some inner fender modding was needed on the pass side. Also the drivers side to make clearance for the crossover pipe. I have some pictures I got from two people that did the turbo install. They're probably on my old computer. I'll dig them up after this weekend. The Banks does protrude out a couple inches more than the GM turbo.

I had pretty good luck with my 6.2

 

[antichrist]

FL Cruiser - I'll take your pics - anything will help. I am going to use the serpentine belt setup with the higher flow water pump. I plan on towing and I do go out heavy at times and just want there to be plenty of cooling. I'll hold off on the radiator change and try the stock Rad. Did you put the stock AC compressor back in? Anyone have any luck with a GM compressor ?

 

[antichrist]

OK It's been a while but y'all know how work and other life's demands get so much in the way of really import things... Like making one's cruiser awesome. But I have things really rolling now. Here's where I am at

The Low mileage GM Diesel is painted now ready for the cruiser

I have the old 2f out and the whole front clip off for ideal access (this was pretty easy to do):

Now fitting up the Marks Adators Engine mounts using a replica big block as a proxy for the 6.2 diesel

 

[antichrist]

So... I am now trying determine the ideal compromise for the engine fit/placement

This is the engine position with the Tranny/TC in a "stock" position - the MArks mounts obviously looking incorrect. Does this engine height look right?

 

[Rock40]

Cool project, I've always been a fan of the 6.2's. I had a 85' CUCV for a bit and it was great. Why not just run it naturally aspirated? It's obviously going to save you some fitment issues and the motor will likely last a lot longer without the turbo. I got 20-21MPG in the CUCV with no overdrive, stock tires and no turbo. You ought to be able to do better than that with the 15% OD

 

[antichrist]

Hey Rock40 - you are absolutely right. Naturally aspirated would be a lot more straightforward. Diving deep seems to be a bit of a character flaw for me. Hopefully the turbo fit goes. I really would like to have high altitude capability with the turbo along with extra "grunt" for towing.

 

[handcannon]

With the Mark's adapter moving the motor forward a bit, and the indent in the firewall for the straight six, does that leave enough room for a center mount turbo (not the van version, a custom fit turbo)? There is a guy on thetruckstop.us that has done a 3" body lift on his Chevy K3500, and is working on a center mount turbo for it. Here is his thread on TTS--- Centermount turbo setup on a k3500 ---- I haven't been able to spend much time on there this summer (typical summer for me, busy), so I'm not up to date on his thread.

Don

 

[antichrist]

I seriously looked at the "valley turbo" option. The issue is the 6.2's vacuum pump - which also doubles as the oil pump drive. It would be squarely in the way of the turbo. Additionally the intake manifolds would need to be of the van version. You are right though, the Marks really puts the engine away from the firewall.

 

[cruisedeisel]

I thought the military didn't do oil changes? Rather just engine swaps.

 

[antichrist]

The CUCV that this motor came out of had "Admin" prominently featured, so...... They very likely do not go for neither of those two options

 

[handcannon]

I seriously looked at the "valley turbo" option. The issue is the 6.2's vacuum pump - which also doubles as the oil pump drive. It would be squarely in the way of the turbo. Additionally the intake manifolds would need to be of the van version. You are right though, the Marks really puts the engine away from the firewall.

Read the thread that I listed in my last post. He is doing a valley turbo, but using a Holset hybrid instead of the van turbo. The fact that he has a 3" body lift on his pickup is what is giving him the space to do this. With the Marks adapter you are using I think you would have the space to do something similar. He is also using modified hummer headers instead of van manifolds. The hummer headers are larger diameter than the van headers.

Since you are going with the serpentine belt system you could use the front mount vacuum pump the 6.5 uses and use the 6.5 oil pump drive, which is basically flush with the block there. This would give you the space there for a center mount turbo system.

Spend some time on www.thetruckstop.us and read the tech articles there. There are several members that are real good with tech for the 6.2 and 6.5 motors. They can give some real good info that will help make your motor bullet proof.

No matter which way you go, this thread has my interest. By the way, I do have a 1994 K2500 6.5TD pickup.

Don

 

[antichrist]

Got to the point where I needed to land on mount location and get moving to the rest of this project. Found that the Marks engine mounts didn't exactly fit per expectations. Some modifications were in order:

This cut line sits the engine 1" off center and has the tranny and TC sitting very close to the stock position:

We welded in reinforcements to beef things up and used the Mark's chassis plates for additional frame support

Next step is to remove the replica block ( A huuuuge help not having to do the initial fit up with the bulky full engine) and get the actual engine before final fit up and weld out

 

[GM60]

I don't know if this is of any interest, but this mob in oz does a supercharger kit for these engines.
Chev / Hummer / Silverado / Suburban 6.5 Litre Diesel Supercharger Kit

 

[antichrist]

The 6.5 is a Diesel setup for induced draft as it has lower compression than the 6.2. The Banks setup is specifically targeted for the 6.2's higher compression. My intent here is to leave a bread crumb trail for the next idiot cruiserhead whom feels a 6.2 diesel swap is a stellar idea ( a 6.5 would essentially be the same swap as this one). My goal here is to get increased drivability over the 2F which was absolutely painful being loaded for a fun weekend and having to only make 50 mph up a grade, not being able to effectively tow and getting crappy mileage ( I'll take 20 or so mpg). The 6.2 with or without the turbo appears to be a decent solution - I am not looking for a lot of speed performance. Hold 70 mph down the highway and still have excellent low speed crawling capability is going to make me a happy camper. I'll get the engine in and running put some miles in and then I'll take a look at final drive ratios, tire sizes and overall drivability to optimize mileage and desired performance.

 

[GM60]

I understand exactly what you are trying to achieve with the 6.2 conversion. I was after the same thing 16 years ago when I fitted a non turbo 6.2 into my '84 2H 60 series.
The 2H wasn't good at overtaking when the 60 was heavily loaded, and in some situations it was quite dangerous.
I did my conversion in August 2000, so it's 16 years almost to the day.
I still have that 60 and still love driving it, but the paint is back to undercoat on the roof and bonnet, and needs urgent attention.
With a non turbo 6.2 in good condition, you'll have no trouble cruising fully loaded at 70 mph, and still get good fuel economy.
The low speed crawling will blow your mind. These motors have a LOT of torque at idle, as well as a LOT of engine braking.
This makes them unreal in the rough and steep off road driving.
Looking forward to following the rest of your conversion.