2nd Alternator Mount Needed (1 Viewer)

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Dissent

Questioning my life choices...
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
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Location
Sweetwater, TN (East of Knoxville)
I need a 2nd alternator. I considered the Photoman bracket and 150A Sequoia setup but for a multitude of reasons, I'm going a new direction for the LC world.

What I need is help. I'm planning on buying a 3 groove pulley from @NLXTACY and I need to fab up a bracket on the exhaust side of the motor with a idler pulley, preferably Toyota parts, to hold a 2nd alternator.

Logically a Toyota alternator from 80-150A will do the job but I'm also considering a standard J180 short mount config as these are very common units found anywhere in the world and available on most GM vehicles.

Has anyone done this already and can produce a solid bracket before I start?

I'm not a real fabricator but I can make it work with a handful of strong brackets and what not but I'd like to enlist more talented fabricators if they can help me.

If some enterprising individual wants to move ahead with this, you have my approval to produce and sell it. I only need the one.

I can do the wiring no problem on.

What do you say Mud People?
 
No reason why the bracket I just made for the York couldn't be repurposed to mount the alt you're thinking of. So long as the 3-groove pulley is utilized along with the idler and tensioner bolt it should be no big deal. One ear pivots and the other is either solid or captured in an arc. Since the idler/tensioner is in play, having the tensioning arc in the bracket wouldn't be needed.
 
I wasn't sure if that would work or not given the dimensions of the air pump vs. Alternator. Now that you've finished that first batch, when do you want to make a second run? ;)
 
Not soon if I don't have too unless there are plenty of willing participants. I'm in no hurry to lose money again :flipoff2:
 
I'm always in a hurry to lose money!
 
Zena Welders has a universal kit and various brackets that let any vehicle fit up to a 500A alternator for their onboard welders. Looks promising.
 
I also need to determine if both alternators feed the same battery or should I get a 2nd battery and run all my auxiliary loads from the 2nd battery/alternator.
 
My primary issue is the low A/C blower speed at idle, especially running headlights. I'm running an audio system that 99% of LC owners aren't running and it can pull up to 60A by itself when pushed. The audio system aside, I am not impressed with the output at idle even when the truck was new to me and had the OEM stereo. Since the majority of my daily driving is in city traffic, it's a daily reminder that 1997 was not the age of 150+A alternators. When I run headlights and wipers along with the A/C blower in the evening here during Monsoon Season when it's still 98 degrees at 10:00 PM, it's clear the system could use a boost. I'd like to incorporate some offroad lights and maybe a winch one day that will put some more demand on the system too.

I replaced my alternator last year with an OEM reman from CBT after considering the Photoman bracket and Sequoia setup but I don't like the larger case size and smallish output of the 150A alternator (80-90A at idle) and that I'd still have to go with a used or reman unit along with having to deal with the installation space challenges on top of the premium to achieve this goal. If I'm going to spend the money, I want some additional benefits.

One benefit of going with a second unit is that I could use almost any alternator size and ampacity I wish for the 2nd one. Another is that I could implement an onboard stick welder. I don't have a stick welder at all and this could kill 2 birds. Lastly, I don't have to affect the OEM setup at all.

In consideration of the above, I have begun researching companies and have found an OEM sized alternator case available in sizes up to 390A but I'm looking to stay in the 250A range which gives me 185A at idle over the stock 60A and up to 250A at cruising speed. Again, my goal is maximum output at low engine speeds. I've already upgraded my OEM charge and battery cables from 10AWG/4AWG to 8AWG/1AWG which didn't help much with the anemic 80A OEM setup, so I'm all set for 250A from the OEM location.

I'm still comparing the cost of a second OEM sized alternator, brackets and pulleys vs. a true high output OEM sized case but haven't traveled far enough down that road yet to have an opinion either way.
 
There's a company in California called M2K Automotive Solutions and all they do is produce high output alternators. Their solution for the 1FZ-FE motor is substantial and was originally developed for the Toyota Racing Team to run all their stuff. They don't offer a 2nd alternator kit for the 1FZ-FE but they do for every other LC engine config. They said the R&D is driven from the various world military units that use the LC and need the larger alternators and the 1FZ-FE motor isn't really used much in that market. To fill that gap, they offer the following units. I explained the desert heat, idle challenges and what not and they said their units are popular in Australia and the Arab worlds and are heavily used by limo and cab companies in Las Vegas where they burn through alternators regularly. They offer a 2 year warranty and seem to be the best in class. Prices including shipping nearly anywhere.

Model 250 - $665 - 185A at normal idle, 250A at full speed
Model 320 - $685 - 120A at normal idle, 320A at full speed
Model 250XP - $850 - 186A at normal idle, 200A at fast idle, 250A at full speed
Model 270XP - $875 - 200A at normal idle, 215A at fast idle, 270A at full speed
 
Would not a larger pulley on the factory alt increase the output at low rpm be a much easier solution.

As for your stereo if its power hungry when driven your installer should of installed large caps to deal with your hard driven needs. BTDT running a large tri-amp set up back in the day when I could hear. :)
 
Would not a larger pulley on the factory alt increase the output at low rpm be a much easier solution.

As for your stereo if its power hungry when driven your installer should of installed large caps to deal with your hard driven needs. BTDT running a large tri-amp set up back in the day when I could hear. :)
Pulley would have to be smaller to increase output. If a smaller pulley exists I have not seen it.

I think your best bet would be one of the M2K alts. Certainly a lot less hassle than mounting up and wiring a second alternator.
 
Would not a larger pulley on the factory alt increase the output at low rpm be a much easier solution.

As for your stereo if its power hungry when driven your installer should of installed large caps to deal with your hard driven needs. BTDT running a large tri-amp set up back in the day when I could hear. :)
The installer (me) had considered caps but I'm still working on the space required for them. :) Going to have to re-evaluate when I get my new sub once the alternator can keep up. Besides, the OEM output is still only 80A which is pretty anemic by today's standards.

I have one but it is off of a 3FE not sure if it will work for you or not...
Unfortunately the 3FE is a different size and layout. Won't work but thank you for the offer.

Pulley would have to be smaller to increase output. If a smaller pulley exists I have not seen it.

I think your best bet would be one of the M2K alts. Certainly a lot less hassle than mounting up and wiring a second alternator.
Yeah, I'm looking into the M2K alternator as the best option given the limited mounting available for the 1FZ-FE engine. Once I tally up the mount, the pulley and the alternator, it's about double the Photoman bracket/Sequoia option and within $200 of the M2K.

The M2K wins hands down on output, capability and size so I'm going to head that direction.
 
X2 on the smaller pulley. Smaller pulley equals faster spin vs stock.

Photoman makes/made a smaller pulley for the alternator. I'm running his alt setup along with the 150A alt and smaller pulley.
 
Interesting. Looking forward to how you solve this. Just keep in mind power requirements to drive the alternator as that will directly impact belt type /size, number of grooves, contact area (arc of pulley), pulley dia, etc. I think Gates has an on-line program to simulate this sort of thing.
 
Very true on the pulley but from what I've come across, the OEM idle output is about 60A and the full speed output is 80A.

The belt surface is a valid concern which is what's driving me to the M2K models. Still poor and undecided so I will definitely think about both approaches still.
 
Hi Dissent, did you ever make headway on this? I'm about to swap in a sequoia alternator with the above mentioned bracket, and before I do I thought I'd check in on your findings.
 
I had no idea that I began this effort nearly 3 years ago! I've given up on the 2nd alternator which would be the best solution but it's too pricey to fab up. I passed on the M2K models because of the small case. I'm not confident it will manage the heat and there isn't a lot of room for more diodes.

I still have the anemic OEM alternator and it still sucks. I still sit at lights in the 100+ degree heat running the A/C and LCP fan looking at my 12.2v battery. When I crank the RPMs to 2000, the voltage is 13.8v. Not bad but short of upping my idle to 2000 RPM, this isn't working. Trail runs at 8 MPH running the A/C is miserable. The voltage hovers between 12.6v and 12.2v over the course of 8-12 hours results in a sad battery. I need more amps at idle, plain and simple.

I've purchased the Photoman bracket 2nd hand and just ordered a small pulley and plug kit from him. I'm now seeking info on ACTUAL output at idle from a 2003-2007 Sequoia 150A alternator. I want at least 100A at idle. I'm looking at high output Sequoia units now that run 150A at idle and 250A max. I don't care much about the max, I want all my amps at idle.
 
I have one but it is off of a 3FE not sure if it will work for you or not...

If he doesn’t need it...... I do! Lol
I’ve been looking for one to “adapt” to my air pump location so that I can re-install my OBA!
 

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