Which plugs should I be running - B, 2B, 3B, H and 2H diesels (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

guys,
first of all great thread with a ton of very helpful info. I love mudders!

I have an '84 aus RHD HJ47 running the 2H - super glow system (I'm pretty sure). the PO did a bunch of crazy stuff, mostly helpful (although he did weld the top and side on so they can never be removed!!). there's a lot of crazy wiring under the dash but all in all the truck starts right up every time, I think the glow system is working well if not perfectly, and there really is nothing wrong with the rig. BUT - I have a few questions, the answers to which I'm hoping this forum may be able to enlighten me.
key in the ignition and turn it to 'on' and the glow light comes on for the appropriate 2-3 seconds. engine starts right up every time
I have no idea how to monitor if the second stage glow is working..
when the truck is 'cold' the engine cuts out after about 10-15 seconds, (you can hear the audible click of the switch under the left side - passenger side - dash) which I've read and I believe is due to the oil pressure sensor; ie- once the oil pressure comes up a bit the engine stays on no problem. this is usually after a few starts, or if I start it and rev the engine a little to get the pressure up a little faster. If the engine is 'hot' or up to temp/pressure it starts right up and never cuts out.
there is a toggle switch on the dash (which I've verified is wired but not sure to where). I figured this was to 'turn on the glow plugs' but the rig starts every time whether the toggle is 'on' or 'off'
1- any ideas about the toggle?
2- is it ok that the oil pressure sensor is cutting the edic out? (I've read this is fairly normal)
3- hate to look a gift horse in the mouth but is it ok that she starts right up every time without really knowing if the second stage glow system is working? ie- am I damaging anything?
thanks - any info would be appreciated
j
 
hm funny never thought about that - the toggle to bypass the edic oil pressure sensor. however (although I'm not at the shop right now) I don't recall seeing any 'added wires' around the sensor. i'll double check.
you may be correct about the idle - i'll research how to increase the idle speed.
I also intend to do an oil and filter change - sludgy oil I've heard can affect oil pressure
btw- I've read all the threads on mud - but any suggestions on filters? (right now I have a decade old Valvoline vo14)
thanks,
j
 
Tom, I'm new to diesels and just bought a LHD 78 bj40. I'm trying to find some type of manual with no luck, can you help meout. From what I've read so far, it seems you're the guy to talk to. Thanks, Ron
 
2H FSM lists plug torque at 9 ft-lb (108 in-lb). Thought this would be useful info for this FAQ thread.
 
Hi guys newbie here. I have a 2B engine on my FJ40 and would like to put in the original glow system for the 1981 BJ40 with 2B engine. Not sure where to begin! Is this the same glow controller for the 2B? Also would anyone have a diagram of the pre-heating system for the 2B engine? Thank you in advance. Regards,


AL

GlowController2.jpg
 
For you to have the 2B engine (and assuming this engine has always been in this vehicle), then you must really have a BJ41 or perhaps BJ44? (rather than a BJ40) and it must be a second-hand-import from Japan (because 2B-powered BJ models were never exported new) and it should be 24V (because both these models were made only in 24V versions).

That open-type glow controller would work (if it were for a 24V BJ) but a 1981 BJ would have got the more-enclosed version (where it is harder to see the glowing coil of wire).

So based on the above, the glow controller you want is 28550-57020 and it runs with 20.5V plugs.

And the wiring is similar to that shown in post #38 except for a 24V power source (instead of 12V) and different part numbers for the relay and glow controller etc, and 20.5V plugs (instead of 8.5V plugs)..

:beer:
 
Last edited:
So I have the super glow intact but it doesn't seem to be dropping to 6v after a couple sec it is at 12v until the relay clicks. So it burnt a brand new set of 6v glow plugs. Any help?
 
So does anyones superglow system actually get battery voltage at the glowplugs?

My BJ73 with super glow gets 8.2Vish at the glowplugs on stage 1 then 4.5Vish on the second stage. I just went through and cleaned all the contacts and soldered the crusty crimps, no change.

I'm curious if Toyota engineered in this massive voltage drop to extend the life of the plugs or if they just cheaped out on wiring.

As it is I wait to hear the relay click which happens a second or 2 after the glow light goes off. It only takes about 5 seconds to glow from dead cold but the 1HZ at work does it faster.
 
Great thread!
Shout out to Lost Marbles for his wealth of knowledge!!! Hope you find another BJ40!

It has been very cold in The northeast USA over the last few months and I was unable to start my rig below freezing. Researched a bunch here and initially thought it was fuel gelling, as I still may have had summer diesel in the tank. My glow controller has never worked, so I blamed it on the fuel. Heated the fuel filter with a shrink wrap gun , and it started. Treated the fuel, and it started a little better, then changed the fuel filter... not much change.
Turned my attention to the glow system. As I said above, the controller has never glowed, and I assumed it was bad, as the rig always started, and the relay made the nice click when turning the key backwards. I would simply count to 20, and it would start. But not recently.

Checked the glow plugs, two were bad. Replaced all 4 with the NGK Y-128T . My glow controller now works as advertised, and the rig started in about a second!!!

What I learned...

If your glow controller isn't working, check the plugs! Don't blame the fuel!
Much easier to change the glow plugs than the fuel filter!
 
Posted this on the cold start thread too:
What a difference! This was at about 25 degrees F.


MEDIA=youtube]Gsbkl7WGJkM[/MEDIA]
 
 
Great thread lots of info thanks to all. Have a 86bj70. Almost 500thou km. Mine is on a timer at ign. switch glows about 20seconds it seems. Even at -25c if you glow it twice it starts right up. After a few seconds it gets rougher and rougher. I want an after glow switch installed and 4 new plugs. As far as low oil switch try running a winter oil5w30. Spin the motor over before you glow it,if you have a decent battery. The bj is 24v with 2 1000 amp interstates. 850cca. Spins over like a sewing machine.
 
lostmarbles said:
Glowplug selection seems to be a common issue amongst many owners of classic indirect-injection diesel landcruisers.

While glow plug manufacturers/distributors put out "selection catalogs", most of these catalogs have accumulated numerous errors.

So as a solution, I've tried to put together an alternative selection method as a trial.

Models affected:
BJ40, BJ41, BJ42, BJ43, BJ44, BJ45, BJ46 (running B, 2B or 3B engines depending on the model)
BJ60 (running the 3B engine)
BJ70, BJ73, BJ75 (running the 3B engine)
HJ45, HJ47 (running the H or 2H engine respectively)
HJ60 (running the 2H engine)
HJ75 (running the 2H engine)

My selection method here is based on my belief that, apart from a few minor exceptions, these cruisers can use just 6 glow plugs in all. And I believe which one an individual cruiser should use depends simply on the battery power supply available (whether 12 or 24 volt) and on which type of pre-heat system is fitted. (Glow Controller, Fixed Delay, or Super Glow)

Anyway, here is my selection guide (from which I hope you can select the correct plug for your indirect injection diesel landcruiser):
Guide to glow plug selection​

BTW - The yellow type signifies "24 volt cruiser information".


12 Volt

Glow controller 8.5V
Toyota 19850-68030, NGK Y-128T, Denso DG234
APS 5013, EIKO GT208, JKT PT104, MAY PT104
Bosch GPT208, VSP PT104, Champion CH121, HKT PT104
Warning! While these plugs are CLAIMED to be equivalent to each other - their current-draw does vary from brand to brand and so unfortunately some of them may not glow your Controller properly!!! (See post #54 for further information.)

Here reduced-voltage is fed to the glowplug busbar via a dash-mounted glow controller during pre-heating. This glow controller (which consists of a coil of resistance-wire behind a viewing hole) gradually brightens to "red-hot" (or even to "bright orange" depending on the model) after 15 to 20 seconds to give a visual indication that your plugs are hot enough for you to start cranking your engine.

Fixed delay 10.5V
Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232
Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Here the busbar receives approximately the full battery voltage during pre-heating (because no glow controller or other type of resistor is fitted upstream). There is a glow-light (pre-heat light) on the dashboard that illuminates during pre-heating and extinguishes after a fixed time delay of between 15 and 20 seconds to tell you when to start cranking.

Owners often create a similar set-up that requires the same plugs (where the busbar again gets connected directly to the battery without any resistance device fitted inbetween) when their factory-wired pre-heating systems become troublesome. In such cases the dash-mounted momentary switch used to manually energize the glowplug busbar is commonly referred to as a “Wilson Switch”. And because no timer is used, the driver must estimate the pre-heat duration themselves.
A big advantage here is that the Wilson Switch allows the driver to smooth out a rough cold-idle by providing "After Glow". (The Wilson Switch can be used to re-energise the busbar once the engine is running.)

Super glow 6V
Toyota 19850-68050 (or 68051), Denso DG220
Bosch GPT214, Champion CH125, HKT PT146

Here the Toyota engineers sped-up the pre-heating procedure by using faster heating plugs (lower voltage plugs). They also installed two stages of pre-heat, and automated both these pre-heating durations according to coolant/block temperature and other factors. The first stage connects the busbar directly to the battery (12V) and the second stage (after-glow) drops this voltage to somewhere close to the plugs nominal voltage (6V).
Like the "Fixed Delay system" there is again a glow light (pre-heat light) that is extinguished to tell you when to crank. However here it illuminates for a much shorter time. (Typically just 2 or 3 seconds.)


24 Volt

Glow controller 20.5V
Toyota 19850-68040, NGK Y-178T, Denso DG235
Bosch GPT207, Champion CH122, HKT PT109
Warning! While these plugs are CLAIMED to be equivalent to each other - their current-draw does vary from brand to brand and so some of them may not glow your Controller properly!!! (See post #54 for further information.)

Here reduced-voltage is fed to the glowplug busbar via a dash-mounted glow controller during pre-heating. This glow controller (which consists of a coil of resistance-wire behind a viewing hole) gradually brightens to "red-hot" (or even to "bright orange" depending on the model) after 15 to 20 seconds to give a visual indication that your plugs are hot enough for you to start cranking your engine.

Fixed delay 23V
Toyota 19850-68020, Denso DG233, EIKO GT213
Bosch GPT213, HKT PT108, MAY PT108, JKT PT108,

Here the busbar receives approximately the full battery voltage during pre-heating (because no glow controller or other type of resistor is fitted upstream). There is a glow-light (pre-heat light) on the dashboard that illuminates during pre-heating and extinguishes after a fixed time delay of between 15 and 20 seconds to tell you when to start cranking.

Owners often create a similar set-up that requires the same plugs (where the busbar again gets connected directly to the battery without any resistance device fitted inbetween) when their factory-wired pre-heating systems become troublesome. In such cases the dash-mounted momentary switch used to manually energize the glowplug busbar is commonly referred to as a “Wilson Switch”. And because no timer is used, the driver must estimate the pre-heat duration themselves.
A big advantage here is that the Wilson Switch allows the driver to smooth out a rough cold-idle by providing "After Glow". (The Wilson Switch can be used to re-energise the busbar once the engine is running.)

Super glow 14V
Toyota 19850-68060, NGK Y-197R, Denso DG222
Bosch GPT217, Champion CH104, HKT PT141

Here the Toyota engineers sped-up the pre-heating procedure by using faster heating plugs (lower voltage plugs). They also installed two stages of pre-heat, and automated both these pre-heating durations according to coolant/block temperature and other factors. The first stage connects the busbar directly to the battery (24V) and the second stage (after-glow) drops this voltage to somewhere close to the plugs nominal voltage (14V).
Like the "Fixed Delay system" there is again a glow light (pre-heat light) that is extinguished to tell you when to crank. However here it illuminates for a much shorter time. (Typically just 2 or 3 seconds.)



Exceptions:

Toyota lists Aug 1988 to Jan 1990 12V BJ70, BJ73, HJ60, and HJ75 cruisers as running 11V plugs (Part number 19850-64031)

Originally I had listed more "exceptions" here (copied from various plug catalogs) but my research of the Toyota EPC didn't clearly back them up.

However I suspect pre-1975/76 diesels (BJ40 & HJ45) may not comply with this guide. But even then, non-compliance may really be limited to simply pre-June 1973 HJ45 (H) models ---- My research isn't conclusive.


Note:
If anyone at all (not just the owners of pre 1975/76 diesels) finds their engine doesn't run the plugs in this guide ... then PLEASE add a post to this thread so we can work out why (and so we can have real evidence for others to take note of).

This thread is basically about "factory wiring". But even if a previous owner has tampered with it, I'm hoping information here will still offer useful guidance.

As far as I know, all of the very early diesels ran "Glow Controller pre-heat" and this form of pre-heat ceased for most models in late 1982 (but may have remained in some till late 1984) when Fixed Delay and Super Glow took over.



:cheers:
Click to expand...
 
I have an HJ47 10/1980 that uses 8.5v Glow Plugs and the in Dash Controller, but has a single 100 amp solenoid that clicks in from the ignition Glow position then when you go to crank it does not feed any further volts to the rail.

Needless to say it starts a bit rough in cold weather even in Australia in US I think it would not start.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

plink01
BJ42 3B barely running (solved!)
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
dirtyham
D
Economist LC76
B/2B/3B Diesel crankshaft bolt torque: bearing cap (12mm,13mm,16mm) and connecting rod cap
Replies
11
Views
3K
Smithtec
S
Greek Cruiserhead
FJ45 2H swap: which REAR motor/gearbox mount?
2 3
Replies
52
Views
2K
Greek Cruiserhead
Greek Cruiserhead
M
Low Voltage at bus bar to glow plugs bj60 3B
Replies
3
Views
603
kouglof
K

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 3 (members: 0, guests: 3)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom