Lights, Switches, & Preparation (1 Viewer)

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Where did you get the switches? I want to make sure I got the right size.

also when did the rear locker became a button? I don't have that button on my 09.
I used the CruiserHeads "small" switches. Make sure you order the "small" switches, the mirror fold in is normal size so I got the wrong size at first. I also ordered the green which matches the OEM nicely after tone-down. The white would probably be off. Threw those into my 100 and re-ordered. As long as you do the tone-down I mentioned on the LED lights they look completely factory. I also suggest 9 conductor speed wire from your fuse/relay through the firewall, it's pretty cheap and really easy to wire for everything you plan to add at once.
 
I got my CB put into my ashtray slot, added a cigarette plug and dual USB to the back seat (just below the A/C controls) and ran some 10g wire to the very back for a fridge someday (ending in a 12v cigarette plug). CB is a Cobra 19 Ultra 3, just trimmed the plastic some and it slid right in. Also put in an external speaker in the console and PA speaker under the hood. Antenna was 15 feet long and ended up being about 3 feet short, extension is ordered from Amazon. Radio sticks out about an inch, other than that I'm happy with how it turned out. Next step Air Compressor. Also have this on order: Grand Raid XXL Rooftop Tent

Plugs are from Amazon and I got this 29mm drill bit to drill perfectly sized holes for the plugs/USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01798CDSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plugs: Amazon.com: Guoke Dual Usb Phone Motorcycle Cigarette Lighter Socket Set Splitter 12v 2.1a Charger Power Adapter: Cell Phones & Accessories
Amazon.com: Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC: Cell Phones & Accessories

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Air compressor finally installed. You would think that for $500+ ARB would include a quick disconnect fitting (they don't). Factory crossbars removed from roofrack and THULE units installed ready for RTT. May adjust the awning front/rear once the RTT is mounted. ARB 2500 awning installed on LABRAK brackets (LabRak Awming Mounts. Thule Yakima Inno Rhino). Trimmed about 4" off the crossbars after mounting, everything lines up nicely. Snorkel (Safari) is sitting in my garage, waiting to borrow a 4.5" hole saw from a friend to install that.

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Follow up on this thread, 1 year later and the cheap Amazon lights are still functioning perfectly. I did seal them with back RTV, but no moisture inside, working great.
 
I also suggest 9 conductor speed wire from your fuse/relay through the firewall, it's pretty cheap and really easy to wire for everything you plan to add at once.

I'm wiring up so lights to my roof rack this weekend and am curious about using the 9 conductor speed wire to make the wiring cleaner. The only stuff I can find online though is speaker wire for hooking up amps and speakers and stuff like these:

Amazon.com: Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll Blue: Car Electronics

Metra - 20' Multiconductor Cable for Most Vehicles - Blue

Most of the lights I'm hooking up are low amp draw (4 lights are ~1 amp, 1 bar is ~9 amp), but I'm afraid this type of wire may not be suitable? They're all LEDs, but I don't want to create a fire hazard or any other issues! What type of wire did you run @milkyxj?
 
I'm wiring up so lights to my roof rack this weekend and am curious about using the 9 conductor speed wire to make the wiring cleaner. The only stuff I can find online though is speaker wire for hooking up amps and speakers and stuff like these:

Amazon.com: Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll Blue: Car Electronics

Metra - 20' Multiconductor Cable for Most Vehicles - Blue

Most of the lights I'm hooking up are low amp draw (4 lights are ~1 amp, 1 bar is ~9 amp), but I'm afraid this type of wire may not be suitable? They're all LEDs, but I don't want to create a fire hazard or any other issues! What type of wire did you run @milkyxj?

I'd be worried about those types of cables degrading to the elements/UVs. I do like the idea of a weatherproof multi conductor cable though. I'm sure there's a similar weatherproof solution somewhere though.
 
For the wiring I highly recommend automotive wire. Anything else will degrade over time in the sun. I ran 12 or 14ga SXL or GXL (can't recall offhand) inside a 3/8 plastic wire loom to protect it.

I used DT connectors for mine, then used heat shrink and 3M Super-88 electrical tape. The DT connectors are supposedly water-resistant but since they're exposed I assume a good driving rain at 80mph would still let water infiltrate them.
 
For the wiring I highly recommend automotive wire. Anything else will degrade over time in the sun. I ran 12 or 14ga SXL or GXL (can't recall offhand) inside a 3/8 plastic wire loom to protect it.

I used DT connectors for mine, then used heat shrink and 3M Super-88 electrical tape. The DT connectors are supposedly water-resistant but since they're exposed I assume a good driving rain at 80mph would still let water infiltrate them.

A lot of clear speaker wires have a tendency to degrade and get a weird "sticky" surface. That in itself wouldn't necessarily cause failure, but it's not something I'd want to deal with.
 
For the wiring I highly recommend automotive wire. Anything else will degrade over time in the sun. I ran 12 or 14ga SXL or GXL (can't recall offhand) inside a 3/8 plastic wire loom to protect it.

I used DT connectors for mine, then used heat shrink and 3M Super-88 electrical tape. The DT connectors are supposedly water-resistant but since they're exposed I assume a good driving rain at 80mph would still let water infiltrate them.

How about a kit like this or the second 2 conductor roll?

Amazon.com: 14 GA Single Conductor Stranded Remote Wire 6 Rolls Primary Colors 12V 100'FT EA: Automotive

Amazon.com: BNTECHGO 16 Gauge Silicone Wire 50 feet [25 ft Black And 25 ft Red] High Temperature Resistant Soft and Flexible 16 AWG Silicone Wire 252 Strands of copper wire: Toys & Games
 

@linuxgod is 100% on point with the cross linked polyolefin sxl, gxl, etc. recommendations. I prefer vinyl tube and heat shrink for protective loom, but you can also use split loom, flex loom, spiral wrap, whatever you like.

I can help you with pretty much any wire you need if you're interested, just PM me. But I don't offer 2 day Prime shipping haha.
 
@linuxgod is 100% on point with the cross linked polyolefin sxl, gxl, etc. recommendations. I prefer vinyl tube and heat shrink for protective loom, but you can also use split loom, flex loom, spiral wrap, whatever you like.

I can help you with pretty much any wire you need if you're interested, just PM me. But I don't offer 2 day Prime shipping haha.

I'd be worried about those types of cables degrading to the elements/UVs. I do like the idea of a weatherproof multi conductor cable though. I'm sure there's a similar weatherproof solution somewhere though.

For the wiring I highly recommend automotive wire. Anything else will degrade over time in the sun. I ran 12 or 14ga SXL or GXL (can't recall offhand) inside a 3/8 plastic wire loom to protect it.

I used DT connectors for mine, then used heat shrink and 3M Super-88 electrical tape. The DT connectors are supposedly water-resistant but since they're exposed I assume a good driving rain at 80mph would still let water infiltrate them.

I appreciate your help guys. I'm decently mechanically inclined, but anything electrical I've just relied on supplied wiring harnesses with anything I've purchased in the past. I am installing a SwitchPros module (SP-8100 Bezel Style 8-Switch Panel Power System with Concealed Mounting Hardware) which will require me to run some wires up to the accessories, and I want to be sure I do it as safe and cleanly as possible. I'm installing these nice (and pricey) scene lights and want to get it right so I don't mess anything up. I definitely intended to cover with a nice loom as well to protect from the elements.

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