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Dec 8, 2015
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1993 runner, 3.0L with a manual (R150f). Well, the last week or so I have had to put the clutch pedal ALL the way to the floor to disengage. Then yesterday, while driving, my pedal stopped returning and I could barely disengage the clutch. I Milked it home and discovered I was slightly low on fluid and probably sucked some air in. So I bled the system and realized my clutch fork is rattling and not adding any return pressure...the slave cylinder is almost over extended(hence the low fluid and air bubbles) So, I suppose it could be a worn out clutch, a ruined throw out bearing. Or what I think...a busted fork. Anyone have any guesses to what I'll find when I get in there!?
 
Pull off the cover to the clutch fork and shine a light in there. Also make sure the MV is adjusted correctly. I've had it when the stop but came loose and my clutch felt like it was going out.
 
MV? Clutch master? Shining a light will happen tonight. The fact, that my slave is fully extended and not contacting the fork still makes me think inside the bell housing issues
 
MC sorry. There's the adjustment for the pedal under the dash
 
I will be new to the adjustment if needed. pretty straight forward?
 
All you do is twist your body so you can see under the dash and you'll see a rod connecting itself to your clutch pedal, simply undo the nut holding it in place and you may need to pull the pin holding rod to the pedal then adjust it by screwing it either in or out
 
Easy enough. But it still doesn't explain it all. We'll see tonight!
 
I bet your carpet will be wet below the clutch pedal. Clutch master cylinder.
 
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No puddle, but THE PLOT THICKENS! The clevis end of the pedal adjustment revealed a VERY CRUDE spacer welded on, complete with "custom" grinding and the poorest of splatter cold 110v tacking. Leading me to believe I bought a truck with a shot clutch!!
 
Horrible picture, I know....
image.jpg
 
Or... Could it just be a bad master clutch cylinder.... But what explains the extended slave piston is a worn out clutch...right?
 
Your pedal bracket is cracked/broken at the clutch pedal pivot. Very common problem with that generation.
 
I'm a custom metal worker, so I actually had hopes of finding some broken brackets I could fix. But no, pedal bracket looks great. Spring return is good. I spent yesterday detaching everything in perpetration to drop my tranny. That should happen today. I still think it's something in the bell housing. And the truck could use a clutch anyway!
 
"Preperation" good ole spell check!
 
Dropped the trans and discovered some breakage. There is a small stamped "plate" that rides behind the throw out bearing where the fork sits. It was broken in half. I sure enjoy finding real breakage that explains everything! New clutch will be going in anyway. I'm thinking stock Aisin.
 
Marlin Crawlers clutch is a really good kit for off roading. I like the stiffer feel of the 1200 kit I put in my truck
 
Not that it doesn't see a little offroad here and there ,but this truck is mainly my DAILY. So I ended up getting another Aisin. I have beat the hell out if them doing serious crawling in my buggy before I got gears and but still had 36" Iroks and it never failed me. So I should have it in a couple days, along with a new MC and of course a rear main seal.
 
Does the IFS center AND a couple steering linkages really need to be fxxxed with to get the oil pan out!!!??? Its seldom that I Curse Toyota, but I find myself really hating any drivetrain past '85!!
 
Unbolt the engine from the mounts, lift it up by jacking on the front of the engine (NOT on the crank), then put some 2x4 scraps in the gap of the engine mount. You can sometimes wiggle the pan out, especially if you also unbolt the oil pickup at the same time.
 

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