Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ) (2 Viewers)

[broth9640]

Another concern might be condensation moisture from the webasto exhaust dripping on that beautiful paint I suppose you will have plenty of time to buff that off while the rest of us are breaking down our tents

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I'm thinking that exhausting it straight out the side is the best.

I'd also be concerned with having the panel stick out much at all, since I wouldn't want to rip it off someday on a tree or something.

I think it'll be like this until I have the truck running and driving at least. I can consider it done for the moment. change it later if I really want.

Dan

 

[mongoose2231]

This thread gets better and better every time. It should def be made a sticky in the "builds" area

 

[Kris]

Have you seen the older Supra (7M-GTE?) Intercoolers? They have the inlet/outlet on the same side - Could make plumbing a little easier.


See the picture from google below.
http://i.pbase.com/u40/turboes/upload/26306838.P1800ESTurbovaiksed050.jpg


As always, fantastic job!

 

[serenity]

This thread gets better and better every time. It should def be made a sticky in the "builds" area

Already on it! I just like to read through entire threads before I add them. (And I've been a little slack lately.)

Keep up the good work Dan.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

While I'm getting over a bit of a cold, or allergy or something, I figured I might as well be blowing my nose while working on the cruiser, right?

First up, I started by removing the window tint that had long ago purpled and bubbled.

Amazing success...... except on my rear defog window. My defog tests good too, so I REALLY don't want to screw that up. I'm still working on that one. We've got a steam cleaner, and I've tried just about every solvent known to Dan (Acetone, MEK, WD40, dedicated window tint remover, goo gone, simple green, diesel, etc....) without success. A tint shop in Albuquerque suggested that I try the black bag again, but with pure ammonia, and letting it sit in the sun for 3+ hours. I only have it a half hour before.

That said, the other windows came out great. Removed the tint (using a scraper, which is something I can't do on the defog), then gave them a super thorough scrubbing with 409, and then window cleaner. Then I installed the rear door glass, using as many new parts as I could.

And here's the non-door panel interior weatherstrip and grommet for the door lock.

The next thing I did was get busy filling up this space:

The things I need to shoehorn in there are:
1) Fuse Box (6 terminal Blue Sea)
2) Relay Boxes (2x Hella 4 relay boxes)
3) Cable Fuses (Blue Sea, for big fuses--one to the winch, and the other to the accessories)

I made some cardboard mockups, and then I cut out a single piece of 16GA steel. Then I bent it up like this:

Here it is set into place:

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I wasn't real happy with having to mount the radiator overflow at a funny angle.

So I welded on a couple tabs to bolt it down...

And trimmed it to have more clearance around the overflow bottle. Much better!

You can also see the relay box attached with one bolt. They boxes will nest, but I don't have the second box yet, so I can't drill that hole just yet. But you get the idea. A shot from across the bay...

And a closeup of the big fuse setup. Again, I need to order the second one, but you get the picture...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Then I got busy fabricating a little bracket for the glow plug relay. Of course I purchased a new GP relay...

Here's the bracket itself. I just used the studs/nuts for the forward side of the webasto. Then welded on some T nuts (M6x1.00) for the GP Relay bolts.

Super simple to make.

Since I am putting the 1HZ into a LHD truck, I deleted the stock vacuum tube that crosses behind the timing cover to the right side of the engine. That meant routing a metal line along the left fender from the vacuum pump to the vacuum reservoir (which I mounted, using a Hilux Surf reservoir).

It's hard to get good pics of the tube work, but it came out absolutely perfect. Well supported, but out of the way.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Then I brought out the Pewter powder coat, because it approximates the cad finish that Toyota applied to many things originally.

Like the radiator support brackets. Yes, I trimmed them a touch to clear the intercooler piping.

And the GP Relay bracket...

I also rerouted by PS hose just a bit and used an M16-AN6 Banjo Bolt Fitting, instead of the M16-->AN6 fitting from PSC. I think it's a bit cleaner this way. I also wrapped the PS line and fuel line in abrasion ribbon.

That's all the pics I took. Otherwise buttoning up little jobs as I can.

Dan

 

[broth9640]

Nice bracket! did you try a heat gun on the tint? Brake fluid? I spilled some tire black magic stuff in the back of the cruiser and didn't notice it for about a week. It melted the Toyota sound deadener. Literally wiped off with a towel.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Nice bracket! did you try a heat gun on the tint? Brake fluid? I spilled some tire black magic stuff in the back of the cruiser and didn't notice it for about a week. It melted the Toyota sound deadener. Literally wiped off with a towel.

Brake Fluid! That stuff seems to take out anything! And I didn't try it yet. I'll give that a shot today....

It's been amazing how impervious this stuff has been to ANYTHING. Soaked rags in MEK, placed on the glue, and then covered up to prevent evaporation--and even after an hour not a dent.

I was going to tint the windows to keep the temperatures down inside, but frankly after this ordeal I'm not sure that I will be willing to put tint on that defog window ever again.

Dan

 

[OGBeno]

 

[IanB]

Nice bracket work, everything is so nice and tidy!

 

[Ctenosaurian]

You do some really nice, clean work. Can't wait to see this thing up and running (and hopefully around town when you are in ABQ).

 

[DamoPeru]

hey Dan, I see your tight turbo inlet/outlet piping, i had the same routing issues and then went at it another way... I got a HDJ80 airbox lid that incorporates a 90 degree metal bend straight down the side of the box instead of out flat. if standing at the front of the vehicle, i swivelled the airbox lid pipe to about 1 o'clock ish. I also got a factory 90 degree rubber hose to go on the turbo inlet, which i put flat that routes away from the turbo, and then fabbed a stainless joiner pipe to link the two. the turbo outlet is now completely free to go straight over the inlet and miles from anything it may rub on. it might not work for you depending on where you air box is located, but food for thought.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Nice bracket work, everything is so nice and tidy!

You do some really nice, clean work. Can't wait to see this thing up and running (and hopefully around town when you are in ABQ).

Thanks guys! As I get older, my bracketry gets cleaner and cleaner. Also, lighter weight. Building it out of 16GA is still plenty strong, but a lot lighter than using 1/8" steel (which I still use on occasion, but for the most part I stick with the sheet metal now. Faster to cut with the plasma cutter, easier to fit my hands in there, and of course not as heavy. All those ounces add up, I suspect!

hey Dan, I see your tight turbo inlet/outlet piping, i had the same routing issues and then went at it another way... I got a HDJ80 airbox lid that incorporates a 90 degree metal bend straight down the side of the box instead of out flat. if standing at the front of the vehicle, i swivelled the airbox lid pipe to about 1 o'clock ish. I also got a factory 90 degree rubber hose to go on the turbo inlet, which i put flat that routes away from the turbo, and then fabbed a stainless joiner pipe to link the two. the turbo outlet is now completely free to go straight over the inlet and miles from anything it may rub on. it might not work for you depending on where you air box is located, but food for thought.

Interesting. I'll have to give it a good look later. That might make a lot of sense.

Today I spent battling wires. But, I won the battle.

That's right: the wiring harness is finally buttoned back up. A few of the branches will get a little more work, mostly because I don't know how long things are until they are mounted. But the main harness can not go back into the truck as soon as the cowling is ready for it (next time I get to work on it, probably).

Some detail shots:

FWIW, I wrapped the harness with Elliott Tape. Amazing stuff. Then I used white 3M electrical tape in a few spots (like the firewall grommet) and to hold other bits down just so it would be obvious to 10-years-from-now-Dan that those are the spots to open the harness back up if it ever needs it.


And here is the Dakota Digital converter for the tachometer. I will add a W wire to the alternator to make this all work. I wish I would have thought to have had my IP drilled and tapped for a tach sensor when I had it rebuilt, but I didn't, so the alternator pickup it will be...

Lastly, I just wanted to toss up a picture of the Emergency Brake "bucket" that I powder coated yesterday. Looks like new!

It will be a while before I get to do the next bits on the 60, but I can hardly wait!!

Dan

 

[peteinjp]

Like this:

From Wayne's thread here:
BJ42 refurbisment

I picked up one for my turbo install too...

Pete

 

[tmarx]

Awesome work Dan !

 

[KiwiDan80]

Awesome build.
Can you rotate your turbo compressor housing? If so 90 degrees anti-clockwise would point it at the chassis rail then a single 90 silicone elbow would point forward.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Awesome build.
Can you rotate your turbo compressor housing? If so 90 degrees anti-clockwise would point it at the chassis rail then a single 90 silicone elbow would point forward.

I should be able to rotate the housing. That's good thinking. I will give that a try next time I am working on it.

Unrelated: I dealt with the window tint by getting a window from Classic Cruisers in Salida. Much easier than battling that horrendous purple tint.

Dan