'76 & 78 Brake components............a tale of two brothers!! (1 Viewer)

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'76 rear brakes appear to be working fine. The '78 which also has new drums and rebuilt cylinders on the passenger side rear is pulling pretty good to the L upon hard braking. Will pull drum off and inspect but can I expect to have to adjust the passenger side rear cylinders out to get more contact with the drum?? Incidentally the vehicle tracks nice and straight when cruising along with no brake application. What do folks think??
 
Just checked, gear oil in there!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I would swear I have seen it on the driverss side as well....................
 
I finally got time to bleed the brakes and when I went to put the drum back on the drivers side doesn't seem to fit over the axle I had to beat the ever loving crap out of it to make it let go. I'm thinking this drum was an aftermarket one from a previous owner that barely fits. It has life left it in so I was hoping to reuse the drum.
I'll look into options but I'm thinking a file and a b f hammer will get the drum seated properly.

Any tips or advice?

33D612EA-095B-4408-9C40-91AA7342209A.jpg

 
they're normally snug, but a bit of cleaning and they slip on. Are you sure it's hanging up in the center? Last brake job I did on a different drum brake vehicle the shoes weren't in correctly and as a result the drum wouldn't seat right. Did it fit before? Will it fit over the center if you try to put it on backwards?
 
bikersmurf said:
they're normally snug, but a bit of cleaning and they slip on. Are you sure it's hanging up in the center? Last brake job I did on a different drum brake vehicle the shoes weren't in correctly and as a result the drum wouldn't seat right. Did it fit before? Will it fit over the center if you try to put it on backwards?
Click to expand...


Great thinking to try and fit on backwards to see if it will fit. I've got a kids bday party to go to today but I'll be trying that this evening.

It was on the cruiser when I bought it. I had to soak in penetrant oil for a while and beat it with a heavy mallet to get it off. I was about to give up on getting it off and was going to just take it somewhere for a shop to do but I got it off by hitting the crisp out of it. I beat it like I was Tony Soprano and it was from another family.


I ll post up results this evening.
 
They can be a bigger to get off, but I never had any trouble putting them back on.

That said, I ditched the last of my drums on the 40 in 1998... :D when I converted the rears to discs as well.
 
I only had five minutes tonight to check it

It won't fit over the axle shaft with the drum going backwards either
I didn't get much free time tonight but I'm going to try and beat it back on or file it alittle to make room.
I don't really want to spend money on new drums when these have life left in them
 
No I had them directly under and one at a time so I wouldn't mix up just to be sure

It took an extreme beating with a 2-3 lb mallet several times over a few weeks while soaking in penatrat oil to budge.

I'm thinking they were an aftermarket that s previous owner put on and they kinda worked with some hammer persuasion.

I went to the local national chain stores Napa and pep boys to see what they had Napa said drums nla and Pep boys told me to come back tomorrow when they have the parts department to call. I would like to order from a vender on here but the shipping costs are high since it's a heavy part and I don't want to risk getting some that don't fit as well.

I've got some work to do tonight but I'm hoping to get maybe 30 mins to mess with it.
 
OEM's are still available. My shoes were on incorrectly, very good now. Yes, they are HEAVY!!
 
I was able to get the drum back on by tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern to seat it on after getting it as close as I could by hand first.
ill adjust the cylinders tomorrow. Thanks for advice, I believe I'll be able to keep using these drums they had plenty of life left.
 
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Now I am going to replace the stuck calipers on my '78; should almost rename the thread!!!
 
Now on to my '78, stuck calipers so I am going to replace them.....................here are some pics, new to me-never had this stuff apart. .First pic- these things were a bear to get off, not going back on!

cali1.jpg


cali2.jpg


cali3.jpg


cali4.jpg


cali5.jpg
 
And the caliper that I will replace(X2), in pan is the outer bearing and warn cover
cali6.jpg
cali7.jpg
cali6.jpg
cali7.jpg
 
So I am planning on replacing the rotors, pads, both calipers, the pins that go thru the pads, the washer piece between the 2 big nuts(54mm) that bends to keep them from spinning. Is there a torque spec for them? I have a pretty good idea how much tension was on them. I have quite a few questions for the experts: 1. To remove the rotor from the hub I was planning on putting the hub portion into a vise as lightly as possible so I can remove the bolts on the back side, thereby seperating the two- I want to clean up and spray the hub. 2. Do I need to replace the bearings? They look great-plenty of clean grease, no grit at all inside and have never created any bad noises-how does one know if they are bad?? The outer bearing and waher came right out-the inner and seal appears to be pressed in on the inside of the rotor?? If do I need a bearing puller-then how to properly put them back in? Two other seals-one is for the cover over the warn hub, the other on the outer edger of the hub where it meets the warn body? 3. If bearings and seals are ok can I just cover up the internals-clean and spray hub body and re-assemble or should I definately replace the inner bearing seal? Thanks all!
 
tls3601 said:
So I am planning on replacing the rotors, pads, both calipers, the pins that go thru the pads, the washer piece between the 2 big nuts(54mm) that bends to keep them from spinning. Is there a torque spec for them? I have a pretty good idea how much tension was on them. I have quite a few questions for the experts: 1. To remove the rotor from the hub I was planning on putting the hub portion into a vise as lightly as possible so I can remove the bolts on the back side, thereby seperating the two- I want to clean up and spray the hub. 2. Do I need to replace the bearings? They look great-plenty of clean grease, no grit at all inside and have never created any bad noises-how does one know if they are bad?? The outer bearing and waher came right out-the inner and seal appears to be pressed in on the inside of the rotor?? If do I need a bearing puller-then how to properly put them back in? Two other seals-one is for the cover over the warn hub, the other on the outer edger of the hub where it meets the warn body? 3. If bearings and seals are ok can I just cover up the internals-clean and spray hub body and re-assemble or should I definately replace the inner bearing seal? Thanks all!
Click to expand...

Look in the links to the FSMs that trollhole posted, there is a step by step to reassembling the hubs in the manuals. If you have everything apart, seals are cheap and easy to replace.
 
@Jdc1 went to his profile, can't find any FSM stuff-I do need the chassis FSM
 
Thanks SO much brother!!!!!!!!
 
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