Valve cover gasket tips (1 Viewer)

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Mar 25, 2013
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I couldn't find much info on valve cover gaskets, so I'll post what I learned.
Mine were leaking slightly causing a burning oil smell. Not using any oil really. I didn't worry about it until I had to change the starter and then I was pretty deep so I changed them.
Lessons:
1) if they are leaking, you need to change the gaskets. Don't just tighten the bolts. They are supposed to be torqued to a very low torque. Like 5-10 lbs. I guess because the block is aluminum and you don't want to warp or strip anything.
2) they are pretty easy to change. You don't need to wait until you have to take the intake manifold off. Passenger side is very easy. Drivers side has more stuff in the way and a spot where can rip the new gasket. See below.
3) You don't need to get the whole kit that includes the spark plug tube seals and the bolt washers. To replace the spark plug seals it looks like to have to drill out the rivets on the inside of the valve cover. Didn't look worth it to me. The bolt washers don't come off of the bolts very easy, also didn't seem worth it.
4) on the drivers side, at the front of the engine, you will have to remove a bracket holding an AC hose that covers an edge of the valve cover. Once you get the new gasket on, make sure you don't push on the valve cover to get it back past this bracket. On the valves themselves, there's a bolt that sticks up higher than the others. (2nd bolt back on the bottom, once you're looking for it you'll see it.) Once you get the valve cover resting on this bolt, don't push on it but just pull the AC hose out of the way until the cover slips past the hose and bolt on its own. If you push on the cover, the bolt will rip the gasket and it'll leak like the Exxon Valdez.
5) would be nice if you had a low end torque wrench. Mine started at 20 lbs and that seemed too heavy from what I had read. I just tightened them by feel and tried to stop just after there was a little resistance.

All together about $40 for gaskets (if you don't rip one) and about 3 hrs. Not too bad.

Started and ran good with no leaks so far. I haven't road tested it yet but if something doesn't work out I'll update this post.

Ready for 240k more miles! Good luck!
 
I had the same problem. The first thing you'll notice is a slight drip under the vehicle, probably near the front axles. But the smell is the giveaway, and it's easy to confuse the oil with a fuel smell.

I have been quoted a wide range of prices for this part, so would love to hear others input.
 
Does anyone know the factory part numbers for the valve cover gaskets?
 
For the '99, toyodiy lists the part numbers as 11213-50030 for one side and 11214-50010 for the other side.
 
This is on my to do list. Thanks for the post.
 
Could not find the answer, so figured I would post here.

I know the coils have to be pulled in order to do the gasket, but do I have to remove the spark plugs?
 
Could not find the answer, so figured I would post here.

I know the coils have to be pulled in order to do the gasket, but do I have to remove the spark plugs?

No sir. The cover slips over the spark plug tubes so that they can stay in place.
 
So I plan on replacing my valve covers. I read I should replace the PCV at the same time.
Anything else to order before getting this project going.
So far I have:

R & L valve cover gaskets.
PCV valve?

Anything else?
 
wouldn't be a bad idea to get one or two valve cover gasket screws just in case one breaks/drops or fell out.
 
This is on my to-do list. Significantly less overwhelming than the dealer made it sound.

Best place for parts? The dealer that gave me the estimate of $700 to do this?
 
This is on my to-do list. Significantly less overwhelming than the dealer made it sound.

Best place for parts? The dealer that gave me the estimate of $700 to do this?[/QUOTE

Bought my kit from o reilly, cheaper than 700, WOW. I changed my plugs also all for around 70 bucks. Hardest part is just getting in a good position because the truck is so high. I stood on a bucket turned upside down.
 
Any one have an idea on how to replace the tube seals? I am doing my timing belt and also replacing my valve cover gaskets and the tube seals on the PS are cracked. I read about removing the rivets but to much work. the seals have like a metal notch holding them in I wonder if bending them out of the way would help to get them out. In the 80 series its quite simple.
IMG_5530.JPG
 
Somewhere, somebody wrote that the field service manual tell you to bend the tabs out of the way and then bend them back to hold in the new seals. I have not verified this.
 
The FSM gives very specific torque spec and procedures' for doing head cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets. I'd not attempted the job without a FSM. FSM state to bend the 4 ventilation case claws (tabs) holding in the plug tube gasket up 90* or more. Some have just dug out without bending.

Install the cylinder head cover with the 18 bolts. Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes. Install the 2 cylinder head covers. Torque: 6.0 N·m (60 kgf·cm, 53 in.·lbf), 13ft.-lbf for spark plugs & 66in.-lbf for coils

I would, without a doubt, change spark plug tube gaskets while in there on any high millage or older engine.

A nice touch while head covers (valve covers) off, would be to check valve gap clearance. I'd really like to see data on gap info gather here in mud?????;)
 
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Just did mine on 2000lc
11223-50031 $17.41 (pass side)
11214-50011. $17.41 (drivers side)
90080-10330 (bolts) $1.09
Interesting that new bolts had more of "crush washer rubber gasket" than old bolts. I don't know if this would effect the touque wrench readings at all. Also when your in there replace pcv valve grommet as it hardens over time and is a PIA to get out without falling into the valve cover. Also I put antiseeze on my bolts because I had steel aluminum corrosion and 2 broke when removing cover.
 

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