Does anyone know of someone willing and able to do a cut and turn to my front axle for a reasonable price? It's a 76 fj40 w/an SOA. They would have to be w/in a 3-4 hr radius of Peoria, IL.
Cut and turn technician??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter seakayaker32
- Start date
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How are you addressing the spring perches ? I'm an hour north of you or so , cut and turns aren't that hard but you do need a good and solid , flat surface to work from . Did mine on asphalt that is old and washboarded , took a lot of extra time .
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #3
I'm guessing They'll have to be cut off and rewelded at the correct position. I have a garage that isn't completely flat, but there is a big enough flat space to get the axle level.
No. The ball end assembly has a sleeve that is pressed in to the tube. You just cut the tube or grind out the weld to expose the sleeve and then turn the ball end. It helps to have a jig to hold the axle housing while you use a 6 foot bar through the knuckle bearing races to turn the ball. Heating helps a lot. Search for more details.
Due to the housing shape on the passenger side , that is not as easy as one would think - it really takes a specially shaped perch to make it work correctly or possibly notching out the housing , which is not ideal .
Like @Pin_Head stated , the ball ends are mounted to a sleeve tube which is inserted into the axle housing and welded about 1-1/2" in from the end . Grind that weld out and the ball can be rotated , then re-welded .
Sarge
Like @Pin_Head stated , the ball ends are mounted to a sleeve tube which is inserted into the axle housing and welded about 1-1/2" in from the end . Grind that weld out and the ball can be rotated , then re-welded .
Sarge
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
This makes the diff side perch much easier.
FJ40 / FJ60 Diff Cut Spring Perch
I have done several C&Ts over the years and I use to have a jig I could set up on the work bench. In my experience it's easier to use the vehicle as your jig.
The process I use now.
Gut the housing
Cut off anything your not using and grind clean.
Make your groove cut in the weld for the knuckle ball.
Put the housing back under the rig with the perches in place, using 2 floor Jacks to hold in place.
Use an empty 3rd to get your pinion angle where you want it.
Tac the perches
Ubolt the housing on like normal using jack stands put the rig at ride height with weight onto springs.
Using heat turn turn balls to desired caster. I personally like 4 to 6*
Double check everything
Weld up.
FJ40 / FJ60 Diff Cut Spring Perch
I have done several C&Ts over the years and I use to have a jig I could set up on the work bench. In my experience it's easier to use the vehicle as your jig.
The process I use now.
Gut the housing
Cut off anything your not using and grind clean.
Make your groove cut in the weld for the knuckle ball.
Put the housing back under the rig with the perches in place, using 2 floor Jacks to hold in place.
Use an empty 3rd to get your pinion angle where you want it.
Tac the perches
Ubolt the housing on like normal using jack stands put the rig at ride height with weight onto springs.
Using heat turn turn balls to desired caster. I personally like 4 to 6*
Double check everything
Weld up.
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RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
It takes some time and effort no matter how you do it but it is not hard to figure out/accomplish. You do need to be a good welder to do it safely though.
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- Thread starter
- #8
Appreciate the advice. Still hoping in can find someone else to do it do a reasonable price. I don't weld very well, don't have a jig, and, frankly, it would break my heart to tear down that axle assembly again. I totally rebuilt/fabricated that whole front end and I'd hate to have to redo it all myself.
PS you'll still have to reposition the spring perches wouldn't you if the diff is going angled up to face the Tcase.
PS you'll still have to reposition the spring perches wouldn't you if the diff is going angled up to face the Tcase.
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
No you set pinion angle with the perches. Perches don't move once that is established. Set caster with the balls
- Thread starter
- #10
I think we're saying the same thing. I know that pinion angle is set with perches and caster is set with the balls. It's looking like I'll have to do both. Pics won't help. Already have the ds out. Plus the vehicle is locked up tight right now. Have a friend who owns a professional garage and he's letting me use a lift to do some other front end work, but he's closed on the weekends.
AlaskanWheeler
SILVER Star
You could exchange it @ Cruiseroutfitters
- Thread starter
- #12
I know a C&T is a little over my head, hence the reason I'm trying to find someone I can pay to do it for me. I didn't feel the binding, or any driveline vibration, when I test drove this thing, and oddly, the front drive shaft rotated freely when not engaged when i bought it. Then I took out the front ds to replace the pinion seal and front tcase seal/bearing. Put it back in, test drove it, and when in 4wd it feels like the drive line is going to vibrate through the floorboard. Go figure.
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- Thread starter
- #13
I'd heard that, but I couldn't find it on their website, thought they'd discontinued the service.
AlaskanWheeler
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks
Check with @Howard705 - He's been into Cruisers for a long time and is nearby - I'm over in Bloomington...
- Thread starter
- #17
Awesome. Thanks.
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
If you are willing to pay for shipping to and from Southern Oregon we will do it for free at RustyNail Racing. It pains me this is still a thing.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
When I do mine I don't bother messing with the factory weld or dissembling the knuckles I just cut off the steering stops and shock mount , cut the tube a touch away from the weld and the ball will rotate quite easily no need for bar. The knuckle ball has quite a long sleeve no need to mess with Grindibg out the weld. Just cut next to weld and lay a new bead right next to the oem bead. Quick and painless.
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
I agree. The tube isn't that thick and staying away from the weld makes it a lot easier to keep track of the separation between the tube and knuckle.
