Interesting, I bought both types and they both came in white (I wanted to combine the two to grey.... I wonder if there was a mix up - ah well, I'm certainly not going back and doing it again).
Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2fpower
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2fpower
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No pictures; however, progress was made over the weekend. Our local TAC chapter had a meeting @Willys43 hosted at his place, and we had about a dozen 80 series out there, so I was able to look at all the methods for locking down swing outs, and finally decided to do a modified SLEE pin method. pics to come. Had a few hours on Sunday to work on the swing out arm. Need it ready for paint ASAP, so hopefully get out there tonight to wrap it up.
Many thanks go out to Craig for hosting the event!
Many thanks go out to Craig for hosting the event!
2fpower
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The rear swing out bumper is killing me!!! I am the kind of person that measure twice cut once. Only this time I'm having to cut and redo several things. First it was the length of the swing out was covering the four-wheel-drive emblem, no problem, cut an inch off and cap off the end again.
Then it was the swing out-- it's hitting the hinges on the rear tailgate, no problem, cut it off from the spindle and shift it out 3/8 inch.
Now, it appears that the welding distorted the spindle as the swing out is hanging low. Trying to decide what the best fix is. Bought new races today, hoping that I distorted them by leaving them in the spindle when welding... oops.
Then it was the swing out-- it's hitting the hinges on the rear tailgate, no problem, cut it off from the spindle and shift it out 3/8 inch.
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Can I ask what made you decide to coat the bottom of the tub and not the inside? I just got my aqualu tub and I'm thinking the liner would mute welded look of the tub. The welds look good quality, but not stock. I was thinking a bedliner coat on the inside would mute this look some. I'm also planning to go the lizard skin route and maybe a raptor type as well. Possibly the lizard on the underside and bedliner on the inside.
2fpower
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- #168
First off, I did not care for the shiny aluminum peeking out from under the tub, and I like having raptor underneath, to keep some protection, so adding the heat insulation was a no brainer when doing this.
Second, I have raptor inside my other rig, and it is not the easiest to clean. So, since this was already painted, I figure that I will see if the under work I did was sufficient, and if not, i can always add a coat on top and color match raptor the top side.
I would say if your tub is off, do it now, worst case you have double the protection.
In what terms is the raptor hard to clean? Is media to bumpy and traps dirt? This will be my first foray into bed liners, so I'm trying to straighten out my expectations.
2fpower
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- #170
@archie73 , Raptor is the least bumpy of the liners I have seen AND is lays down nice, so there are not many peaks or sharp points, thus nice on bare feet. Still, dirt falls in there and has a way of staying. I clean out FOO with a hose and a brush and just rinse it out. Still have red dust from a Texas Jamboree show up constantly -- from what I hear it will take years to get rid of it.
I cleaned out the tub of Utah with a towel, and thought it cleaned nice and easy.
I cleaned out the tub of Utah with a towel, and thought it cleaned nice and easy.
OK one last question: How much did it take to coat the tub?
OK one more Question: How do the lizard skin and Raptor textures compare?
Thanks for the prompt responses.
2fpower
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WAIT A MINUTE. HOW MANY LAST QUESTIONS DO WE EACH GET?????
Seriously though, the lizard skin, I bought a gallon, and you saw that I did less than half of the tub. I think 3 gallons would have got it all.
On the raptor, I used 6 liter jugs. The kits are 4 liters, so I used 1 and a half kit. I put that on the complete bottom of tub.
Texture wise, they were similar, with lizard being smoother with my spray setup. However, recall, they recommend topcoating as lizard skin is waterbased and does not put up with abuse. Having said that (what the manufacturer says) many folks here have put them on the interior and have not covered with raptor or equiv.
Issues bending 3/4 tube? I have the handle to make the bender manual if you need it.
Yes the hydraulic ram was not kind to the first couple 3/4" tube bends. We used some improvised handles to achieve the right manual leverage. It could have been a little easier if the bender was not mounted to a rolling engine stand though.
Good thing I hadn't quite lost all of my winter weight yet! 
2fpower
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That was a long list of crud to do. Finally started working on Utah again..... that is after removing all the stuff that accumulated on the car that appears to look like a shelving unit. Got a list started and started with the rear axle. Many thanks go out to @riverrat for tearing down the ARB locking diff and making it perfect. Truth is he did the work six months ago, and I'm just now getting to put it in. Also thanks to @tornadoalleycruiser For the taxi service on the ARB.
2fpower
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Went to put the front driveshaft in and realized the PO had put in course thread standard bolts, so searched through my cabinets and could not find any replacements. Called Toyota and both OEM part numbers were no longer stocked, so went to the boneyard and found a set. After all that work, went to install it, and one U-joint was too stiff for my comfort. Punched it out to find lots of rust and no grease. Time to order some new Ujoints. As this is a frankenstein, and I am not sure what year driveshaft, how do I know that I am getting the correct joint? The bolt pattern at the differential is the early narrow pattern.
