SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (12 Viewers)

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Great. Thanks!
 
All, another SQOD - I hope no one is keeping score of who logs the most (I don't want to know).

For those of you with a rear factory bumper still, what are you using for a locking hitch pin? I'll eventually upgrade to an ARB or Slee rear, but for now I need a way to lock my bike carrier. I have a standard MasterLock but that won't fit with all the surrounding plastic on the factory hitch. I've seen other MUD members have a custom fabricated solution, but I am looking for something simpler. Doesn't have to be the Fort Knox of locks, but something more deterring than a hairpin. Or, do I just abandon the locking pin and settle for a standard pin w/ hairpin and a cable lock through the safety chain guides?

Edit: the bike rack is a Thule Apex Swing if that matters.

Suggestions?
 
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Kevin - BTW, looking a bit closer at the website, mine is a little bit different than the one shown, as mine actually uses a lock key. Although I would recommend not placing said key onto your key ring. It is a bit of a booger getting the key into the lock with the pin in place on the hitch. I am thinking of leaving mine in the little fold down "storage" pocket to the left of the steering wheel. I leave my storage area lock there too, so it is always with the truck.
 
I have the same Rece lock from Lowe's, it works, but is a pain to get the key in the lock. definitely takes some fiddling around with it.

will be interested to see if other members have a better option.
 
I have the same Rece lock from Lowe's, it works, but is a pain to get the key in the lock. definitely takes some fiddling around with it.

will be interested to see if other members have a better option.

Sounds like my MasterLock version has similar tolerances (or lack-thereof). I was close to getting it locked, wiggling the key around, but just couldn't get it done before losing patience. I knew when I thought of a 5 lbs hammer, I had better quit while I was ahead.
 
Hello, I'm looking at a 2009 Land Cruiser with 110500 miles. Very clean one owner car. Dealership says the previous owner traded for a new LC. I'm in Iowa so the underside is showing surface rust and the KDSS is very rusty. Has TRD forged 22" rims and nav. Drives tight, no squeaks or rattles. Their price is $31,999 on their website.

I've been reading this site and others regarding weak spots. Seems the KDSS and the radiator are the biggest issues. How prevalent is the rad issue and is a rusty KDSS an issue if you don't have plans for a lift? Not a lot of LC's for sale so I can't get a good idea on the price.

Anything else I should be looking at in the car?

Thanks for any help!
 
Hello, I'm looking at a 2009 Land Cruiser with 110500 miles. Very clean one owner car. Dealership says the previous owner traded for a new LC. I'm in Iowa so the underside is showing surface rust and the KDSS is very rusty. Has TRD forged 22" rims and nav. Drives tight, no squeaks or rattles. Their price is $31,999 on their website.

I've been reading this site and others regarding weak spots. Seems the KDSS and the radiator are the biggest issues. How prevalent is the rad issue and is a rusty KDSS an issue if you don't have plans for a lift? Not a lot of LC's for sale so I can't get a good idea on the price.

Anything else I should be looking at in the car?

Thanks for any help!

Check around the water pump for pink residue. Common failure point.
 
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Today I figured I'd clean up the rims a little. I took one of the rings off the Rock Warriors and saw that it was pretty bad. Worst part is that some of the finish actually separated from the rim and transferred to to the steel ring. Needless to say, I just cleaned what I could (not much) and ensured everything was rinsed and dried on only one rim. I put everything back together and went no further.

Question - Has anyone else noticed this when removing the rings? These rims were purchased second hand and I'm sure the rings were never removed.
 
View attachment 1251630 View attachment 1251631 Today I figured I'd clean up the rims a little. I took one of the rings off the Rock Warriors and saw that it was pretty bad. Worst part is that some of the finish actually separated from the rim and transferred to to the steel ring. Needless to say, I just cleaned what I could (not much) and ensured everything was rinsed and dried on only one rim. I put everything back together and went no further.

Question - Has anyone else noticed this when removing the rings? These rims were purchased second hand and I'm sure the rings were never removed.

Just an aside... Personally, I think it's worth keeping the rings on in order to protect the valve stem anyway.
If you are wheeling, you could scrape the stem and break it fairly readily without the ring to protect it.
 
the rings chew the rim up - is what it is. you can have the rims refinished if you're going ringless or stick it back on there and motor on.
 
All, another SQOD - I hope no one is keeping score of who logs the most (I don't want to know).

For those of you with a rear factory bumper still, what are you using for a locking hitch pin? I'll eventually upgrade to an ARB or Slee rear, but for now I need a way to lock my bike carrier. I have a standard MasterLock but that won't fit with all the surrounding plastic on the factory hitch. I've seen other MUD members have a custom fabricated solution, but I am looking for something simpler. Doesn't have to be the Fort Knox of locks, but something more deterring than a hairpin. Or, do I just abandon the locking pin and settle for a standard pin w/ hairpin and a cable lock through the safety chain guides?

Edit: the bike rack is a Thule Apex Swing if that matters.

Suggestions?


I have a Master Lock 2866DAT, the key is pretty large, I cutoff about half of the key where you hold in to it. This allows me to slip the key up through the safety chain clip (on the hitch) to lock or unlock the barrel. I also removed the black rubber cover on the lock, this allows more space to maneuver the lock.

For a bike rack lock, I have the Yakima holdup which comes with a threaded pin that has a hitch lock on one end. It works without a problem, it looks like Thule has something similar available.

I bought the hitch pin lock after the standard cotter pin went missing... Luckily I noticed it before the hitch pin worked it's way out. Oddly, I was racing my dirt bike, pulled the motorcycle back on the trailer and noticed that the cotter pin was missing from the hitch. Not sure if somehow the cotter pin worked itself out or someone pulled it out. The day before I drove 400 miles without an issue. Either way, it's now locked on just in case.
 
anyone else have this sticker? I'm confused as this was a new truck with only 7 miles when i drove it off the lot.

Pretty sure that nothing has been modified.
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@hedd Thank you, this worked perfectly! I didn't have to trim the key, I only had to remove the rubber housing and was able to get enough room to lock & unlock somewhat easily. Your help allowed me to avoid spending money on another solution - more money for the bumper fund!

I have a Master Lock 2866DAT, the key is pretty large, I cutoff about half of the key where you hold in to it. This allows me to slip the key up through the safety chain clip (on the hitch) to lock or unlock the barrel. I also removed the black rubber cover on the lock, this allows more space to maneuver the lock.

For a bike rack lock, I have the Yakima holdup which comes with a threaded pin that has a hitch lock on one end. It works without a problem, it looks like Thule has something similar available.

I bought the hitch pin lock after the standard cotter pin went missing... Luckily I noticed it before the hitch pin worked it's way out. Oddly, I was racing my dirt bike, pulled the motorcycle back on the trailer and noticed that the cotter pin was missing from the hitch. Not sure if somehow the cotter pin worked itself out or someone pulled it out. The day before I drove 400 miles without an issue. Either way, it's now locked on just in case.
 
anyone else have this sticker? I'm confused as this was a new truck with only 7 miles when i drove it off the lot.

Pretty sure that nothing has been modified.
View attachment 1253563
Not all accessories come from the factory, some are added at the distribution port. They account for everything post build with those stickers. I believe the SET on the bottom indicates your region, South East Toyota.
 
But what was added?! The tow hitch is standard, right? there's no lift, no suspension mods, nothing, completely stock! So maybe the rock guard is what caused the alarm! haha
 
But what was added?! The tow hitch is standard, right? there's no lift, no suspension mods, nothing, completely stock! So maybe the rock guard is what caused the alarm! haha
Could be anything, rock guard, floor mats, first aid kit, wireless headphones, anything not inside or attached when it arrived at port. Funny, dealers are not required to add that sticker when those same accessories are added at the store.

Mine has a 13 pounds added sticker
 
mine is a 2015
 

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