Well, I fixed the crank shaft seal but managed to break a nipple on the top of the radiator that feeds fluid back to the engine. I may not be the first one to do this and was wondering if there is a fix or do I have to buy a new radiator.
Help..I broke my radiator! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Douglas Carter
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- Thread starter
- #2
I also still have the piece I broke off
alia176
SILVER Star
Crap, that sucks. I did the same thing too and bought a replacement. But, I wondered if I could've drilled/tapped/plugged that port.
I've had my radiator out of my Series 80 4 times in the year I've owned it.
This just goes to show that when you're working up there, take the radiator out. It's just not that big of a job, imo, to ensure you don't break it working around it.
How old was the radiator? If original, it was ticking time bomb anyway, and the heat embrittled plastic failed for a reason. If it's newer, its a lesson.
This just goes to show that when you're working up there, take the radiator out. It's just not that big of a job, imo, to ensure you don't break it working around it.
How old was the radiator? If original, it was ticking time bomb anyway, and the heat embrittled plastic failed for a reason. If it's newer, its a lesson.
I did the same thing. Limped along using some jbweld material for a week or so, but the bond always ends up giving way. Best practice would be to replace the rad.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Did this two weeks ago.
About 200 miles later something got between the fan and the core and did this.
so 160 bucks to RockAuto to make this happen,
About 200 miles later something got between the fan and the core and did this.
so 160 bucks to RockAuto to make this happen,
Did this two weeks ago.
About 200 miles later something got between the fan and the core and did this.
so 160 bucks to RockAuto to make this happen,
Is that the Koyo radiator? The 1918?
- Thread starter
- #8
SmokingRocks
That's hilarious.
Nice to see I'm not alone on this one.
That's hilarious.
Nice to see I'm not alone on this one.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOTCU1917
1993 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6 Radiator | RockAuto
Note of caution with the radiator:
While I am very impressed with the build quality (comes from a manufacturer in canada) it needed some persuasion to fit. And once in and everything reinstalled my fan rubbed the bottom of the shroud a bit. One of the fan blades protruded out toward the radiator a bit more than the others, so I just filed it down. Works fine.
It was my first radiator swap so perhaps I didn't adjust it correctly on the re-installation.
1993 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6 Radiator | RockAuto
Note of caution with the radiator:
While I am very impressed with the build quality (comes from a manufacturer in canada) it needed some persuasion to fit. And once in and everything reinstalled my fan rubbed the bottom of the shroud a bit. One of the fan blades protruded out toward the radiator a bit more than the others, so I just filed it down. Works fine.
It was my first radiator swap so perhaps I didn't adjust it correctly on the re-installation.
Mkay... What probably happened is that your transmission cooler line wasn't positioned correctly, or you didn't get the shroud seated in its slot correctly, or both.
Filing down fan blades is a BAD THING. It can create an imbalance that will cause premature failure.
I bought a Spectra for my 67 Mustang, and it was a horrendously bad radiator, workmanship wise. OTOH, my OSC from Rock Auto looks and appears to function extremely well.
On fitment; the no-name 1917 wouldn't fit in my 1996 without major persuasion. My OSC 1918, OTOH, fits like a glove.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Yea that is a good point I will go back and check it out. I filled off about 1/8" over less than an inch shouldn't be a problem. who knows could be eating crow if it ever does go. Either way I've got two 12" pusher fans right on the front of the radiator and no AC coil to disrupt air flow, something tells me I'll be ok.
*edit: I was thinking of just bypassing the transmission fluid temperature equalizer. Did so in my other car and even in the winter I never saw temps under 110 after some driving.. Most of my wheeling is in the summer anyway.
*edit: I was thinking of just bypassing the transmission fluid temperature equalizer. Did so in my other car and even in the winter I never saw temps under 110 after some driving.. Most of my wheeling is in the summer anyway.
I drilled and tapped it 1/4" npt with appropriate and then sealing tape on threads and jb weld, it held during a pressure test but I found a leak at the lower radiator hose outlet so I had to trash it. There's a thread on here detailing the fix. Unfortunately jb welding the nipple vack on doesnt work
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Yea so I did a similar thing ^ I got a heat gun out and heated the area up and drilled out the hole. The heat was to mitigate the chance of cracks starting at the hole and ultimately radiating out (what I found usually causes failures on these types of fixes). I then lightly ran a tap in the hole to clean it up mainly, I wanted the barb to cut its own threads in the material.
Finally I had an extra NPT threaded male air tool coupler, covered the thread in real JB weld and slowly threaded it into the hole. Applying pressure as evenly as I could. Then I coated the outside with JB weld as seen in the photo.
Was actually very interested in seeing how long it would last. Oh well.
Finally I had an extra NPT threaded male air tool coupler, covered the thread in real JB weld and slowly threaded it into the hole. Applying pressure as evenly as I could. Then I coated the outside with JB weld as seen in the photo.
Was actually very interested in seeing how long it would last. Oh well.
- Thread starter
- #14
I went ahead and ordered a new radiator. In the mean time I'm trying JB weld and any thing else I can think of that might work temporarily.
I broke mine at the same spot a day before a 2300+ mile round trip. I plugged the nipple with a screw loaded up with jbweld, and then i carefully drilled a hole in the tank, and used a 1/4 inch threaded hose barb. I used a ratchet with even pressure to tap the hole with the barb, backed it out, and painted the threads with jb weld. I ran it in as far as comfortable, then filleted around it. It held up fine on my trip. I did replace the radiator last feb with a 2 1/2 row brass OEM from Beno.
Did the same thing, drilled mine out and threaded a barbed fitting in there then JB Welded around it... I think it's stronger now than it was before. I ordered a radiator that's just sitting in storage now, still going strong a year later. I'll throw the new rad in when the LS swap happens... it just needs to happen already!
Gascan
All chaps, no jeans.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
And the line from the throttle body?
The only "correct" way to address this is to replace either the top tank (a waste of time) or the radiator assembly.
Gascan
All chaps, no jeans.
A bolt and a hose clamp to seal it. Again, a very, very TEMPORARY fix, until the replacement radiator showed up on the doorstep.
