Distributor Position (1 Viewer)

[Boaf 32]

Hello Pin_head:

Read your post below and have a question that I think I already understand the answer.

First:
Attached (having trouble....) is a photo of my Distributor and as you can see, the vacuum line is right against the oil filter. If I remove the Distributor and correctly re-arrange the spark wires to retain the firing order, will the engine run correctly?

I believe I am just re-positioning the distributor to allow for clearance for the vacuum line, but wanted to ask first.

Second:
I rotated the engine by hand and have not been able to find the "bebe". Only see the pointer. Even with the rotor pointed to Number 1 wire (on Compression stroke), it's not there. Any thoughts?

Boaf


As long as you get the nose of the distributor shaft engaged in the oil pump drive slot it doesn't really matter at all what the orientation is. Having oil pressure is the most important factor.

You can make it run and time properly with any dirstibutor orientation just by installing the plug wires in the proper position of the cap in the right sequence.

If you are OCD and you need to obsess about the tiny numbers on the distributor cap matching up with the actual spark plug wire, then you would need to know it is at TDC of the compression stroke for #1, in which case the rotor needs to be pointing to position #1 of the cap. This is also in the direction of spark plug #4.

Where many people screw up is forgetting that the distributor gears are helical and the rotor will turn CCW as the distributor drops down into engagement. Because of this, you need to start inserting it with the rotor pointing closer to #3 so it ends up pointing to #4 when it is in.

 

[78fj40mg]

You need to add @Pin_Head in order for him to get the alert.

 

[Boaf 32]

Added, and was able to add an attachment.....finally

 

[78fj40mg]

You must use "@"........... @Pin_Head

 

[Boaf 32]

You must use "@"........... @Pin_Head

Sorry, I'm a putz, I don't get it. I'm techie, but not sure to direct mail.....

Boaf

 

[Pin_Head]

Yes, move each plug wire over one hole in the counter clockwise direction so the vacuum line no longer hits the oil filter. Maybe two holes.

Keep turning the engine and you will see the BB or the line for TDC.

 

[Boaf 32]

Yes, move each plug wire over one hole in the counter clockwise direction so the vacuum line no longer hits the oil filter. Maybe two holes.

Keep turning the engine and you will see the BB or the line for TDC.

Thank you sir, I was worried that the Distributor only had a single position for the connection.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Pin_Head,

Good news, Done.

1. Set the flywheel to TDC (as best I could because still cannot find the BeBe).
2. Removed the distributor and rotated roughly 90 degrees
3. Positioned the rotor so when the Distributor Cap was re-installed, it was on Plug 1 (no need to move wires).
4. Set timing by ear and feel. Still trouble finding that BeBe. Will eventually find it, I have a 30 year old timing light...

Thanks.

Boaf

 

[Curt]

It helps to have an extra set of eyes to watch BB as you rotate, make sure you paint the BB and the TDC mark while its in view.

 

[emac]

The BB was not present on my flywheel. I dont know if it was machined off or what, but all I had was a faint circle that looked like something was there. No line either. I even checked the part # of my flywheel and found others with the BB having the same part #.

My thread on missing BB:
TDC BB

 

[Boaf 32]

It helps to have an extra set of eyes to watch BB as you rotate, make sure you paint the BB and the TDC mark while its in view.

You bet, finding it is the hardest part!!! Don't have anyone to assist, son is away in school and wife cannot hand crank the motor.

 

[Boaf 32]

The BB was not present on my flywheel. I dont know if it was machined off or what, but all I had was a faint circle that looked like something was there. No line either. I even checked the part # of my flywheel and found others with the BB having the same part #.

My thread on missing BB:
TDC BB

Thanks emac, yep, I guess we all have similar stories with the LC's. I did put a Black mark on the flywheel that looked TDC (by lining up the rotor and number 1 on the cap. I will keep trying to find it, but continuing on with the build...

 

[Curt]

How did you set the TDC without the mark on flywheel? remove spark plug #1 and see if piston is at the top of the cylinder? That will get your close, then time using a vacuum gauge.

 

[Boaf 32]

How did you set the TDC without the mark on flywheel? remove spark plug #1 and see if piston is at the top of the cylinder? That will get your close, then time using a vacuum gauge.

Yep, removed #1 and it was at the top of the stroke and had aligned with the mark I had made earlier. Never heard of setting timing with a vacuum gauge. What is that? I just have an old, really old Sears timing light.

Here is my challenge:

1. Since I cannot find the BeBe, I have no idea how far the advance degree is (I know it should be 7degrees BTDC)
2. My light is an oldie (30 years). Shouldn't there be a gauge marking on the Bell Housing to determine the degrees?

Thanks.

Boaf

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

There are some U-tube videos on finding TDC with a combo compression/vac gauge. Also try searching "piston stop" and "static timing."

Find / mark TDC an then maybe use the crank shaft pulley to determine 7 degrees (calculating from the circumference).

EDIT: If someone knows how many flywheel teeth there are between the bebe and the 7deg line, that would work too.

Maybe you can find a way to mark the crankshaft pulley for timing, Dremel and florescent paint??

 

[emac]

One method is to take out the #1 spark plug and put your finger over the hole. Turn the motor over until you get a push of air. That is the compression stroke. You can put a straw down the hole to feel when the piston is all the way up. That is how I did mine without the BB. Gets it pretty close, then adjust with dizzy.

 

[Boaf 32]

EMAC, jcl_78fj40,

Thanks for the suggestions. I have the motor running so I know I'm close to TDC. I'll just have to keep searching for the "T" marking and BeBe. I will replace the clutch eventually this summer and find that marking...

 

[Curt]

Sounds like its pretty much there timing lights get you in the spot but i find vacuum gauge helps you get the most out of your engine because you can see it. Grab yourself a vacuum gauge, they are pretty inexpensive. Connect it to the brake booster vacuum hose, advance the dizzy till the vacuum doesn't get any higher most see around 18-22 inches, retard until vacuum drops an inch or 2. Set it. This is of course assuming your carb is setup. My 2f runs at 18 inches steady needle with 10* timing.

 

[Boaf 32]

Sounds like its pretty much there timing lights get you in the spot but i find vacuum gauge helps you get the most out of your engine because you can see it. Grab yourself a vacuum gauge, they are pretty inexpensive. Connect it to the brake booster vacuum hose, advance the dizzy till the vacuum doesn't get any higher most see around 18-22 inches, retard until vacuum drops an inch or 2. Set it. This is of course assuming your carb is setup. My 2f runs at 18 inches steady needle with 10* timing.

Thanks Curt, I believe I have a vacuum gauge somewhere. Already set up the Weber Carb so I can adjust the timing (and then the idle...)...

 

[honk]

The last time my radiator was out I made a pointer and filed marks in the engine's front crank pulley. It makes using a timing light easier than squinting that BB.