47's HJ47 ute build (1 Viewer)

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Let us know when you need the 47 moved...the 80 is raring to go!
 
nice looking bakkie ;)

reminds me alot of my old 45 which also had a 2H.

mind if i ask your age? you referred to yourself as young so want to see if my title of youngest mud member (probably:grinpimp:) has been stolen :p
 
He's 16... (Hope you don't mind your cousin interfering again here...:confused:)
 
He's 16... (Hope you don't mind your cousin interfering again here...:confused:)
NIce! man, beats me out then for sure.

im 23 on my 2nd 45 now, but when i bouth my first 45 and joined mud i was 18.

great looking 47, keep it up!
 
Oh well, I beat you too then...19.
 
He's 16... (Hope you don't mind your cousin interfering again here...:confused:)
Nah not particularly worried at all, hope you didn't think that I would be:D
NIce! man, beats me out then for sure.

im 23 on my 2nd 45 now, but when i bouth my first 45 and joined mud i was 18.

great looking 47, keep it up!
thanks, looks like I have a new target: have two cruisers before I'm 23.....:eek:
 
So, me and old Cuz Unbreakable went out for a bit of a drive yesterday, and stopped by his place last night...

(Sorry for the terrible photos)

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yeah the 80 rim on the 40, looks wayyy better than it does in the picture, its a 33
 
Well today I finally took some pictures of my front axle swap. Same type, probably do a disc conversion after rego. I thought that it came up really well. Also those warns will get replaced be some nice ASISN ones sometime. Also happy with that u-bolt kit, think a mud member from the states makes em. Took it for a drive down the street and it all went well, all the tyres squeal when pulling up hard on the second push. IT STOPS FAST but on the second push. I think I may need to replace the booster to get it to one push that rego will require.

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Also this bash plate for under the gear box arrived today, the pics are after I cleaned it up with the wire brush on the grinder wheel, handy those things.

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Now a teaser pic:);)

Also this week something special should turn up, any guesses?

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PTO Winch?
 
I doubt whether a new booster will shorten your pedal-travel (so that it stops on one-pedal-push rather than two).

A bad booster generally means just that it requires EXCESSIVE pedal pressure to stop (rather than a double-stomp on the pedal to stop).

I think the issue is more likely to be wheel-cylinder-adjustment.

:beer:
 
How far off driving mate?
 
PTO Winch?
haha, you got it, but there's a surprise within a surprise, coming up soon;)
I doubt whether a new booster will shorten your pedal-travel (so that it stops on one-pedal-push rather than two).

A bad booster generally means just that it requires EXCESSIVE pedal pressure to stop (rather than a double-stomp on the pedal to stop).

I think the issue is more likely to be wheel-cylinder-adjustment.

:beer:
yeah thanks for all your help over the project marbles, I think that I have that EXCESSIVE pressure problem as well. I should notice a difference between a non-running engine pushing and a started one right? should become easier when started? (assuming that the engine had not being run for a few hours when testing with a non-running engine)

also how do I adjust my drum brake all around wheel-cylinder?
How far off driving mate?
presuming u mean rego? as is it is hell fun to drive at the moment;)
heres my list:
body work (hopefully get a quote this Friday) rust repair and 2 pack spray in and out:D
windscreen
brakes
sea channel bumper
exhaust (complete new one needed)
and then number plates:bounce:

so it all depends on how fast I get all that stuff done (the sooner I get the body work done the better)
 
Be sure to find a good body man. I've had a car in at a panel shop for 10 months now. Was supposed to take two.
 
....I should notice a difference between a non-running engine pushing and a started one right? should become easier when started? (assuming that the engine had not being run for a few hours when testing with a non-running engine)

also how do I adjust my drum brake all around wheel-cylinder?..


I don't notice any difference with my brake-pedal-pressure for "engine-running" versus "engine-not-running" on my diesel (BJ40). And the reason for this is that I have a vacuum reservoir that stores a LOT of vacuum. Your HJ47 should be the same.

So to check your booster, pump your brakes till your vacuum disappears (and if your HJ47 is like my BJ40, you should then be hearing a loud buzzer that is warning you of "low vacuum"). Then put your foot on the brake (moderate pressure) and start your engine. If the booster is OK you should feel the pedal fall a further inch or so.

As for adjusting the brakes, jack each wheel up in turn, prise out the rubber grommets that cover the adjustment-holes, and use a stubby screwdriver or similar to gradually turn the adjustment wheels one click at a time (by pushing the little "wheel-spokes" inwards towards your axle-centre-line) as you rotate that wheel. Stop as soon as you hear/feel that shoe/lining start to rub on the drum and move onto the next adjuster.

Go all around doing that and retry the pedal. (If you've managed to move an adjuster quite a bit before the relevant brake-shoe has begun to rub then you can rest assured that you've shortened your pedal travel).

If you still have too much pedal travel, then go for a drive doing a few good "stops" in both forward and reverse to "recentre your linings" and then repeat the process.

And if your travel is still too much, begin adjusting a bit more harshly (until each wheel becomes a little hard to turn and then back off a notch or two).

:beer:
 
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I don't notice any difference with my brake-pedal-pressure for "engine-running" versus "engine-not-running" on my diesel (BJ40). And the reason for this is that I have a vacuum reservoir that stores a LOT of vacuum. Your HJ47 should be the same.

So to check your booster, pump your brakes till your vacuum disappears (and if your HJ47 is like my BJ40, you should then be hearing a loud buzzer that is warning you of "low vacuum"). Then put your foot on the brake (moderate pressure) and start your engine. If the booster is OK you should feel the pedal fall a further inch or so.

As for adjusting the brakes, jack each wheel up in turn, prise out the rubber grommets that cover the adjustment-holes, and use a stubby screwdriver or similar to gradually turn the adjustment wheels one click at a time (by pushing the little "wheel-spokes" inwards towards your axle-centre-line) as you rotate that wheel. Stop as soon as you hear/feel that shoe/lining start to rub on the drum and move onto the next adjuster.

Go all around doing that and retry the pedal. (If you've managed to move an adjuster quite a bit before the relevant brake-shoe has begun to rub then you can rest assured that you've shortened your pedal travel).

If you still have too much pedal travel, then go for a drive doing a few good "stops" in both forward and reverse to "recentre your linings" and then repeat the process.

And if your travel is still too much, begin adjusting a bit more harshly (until each wheel becomes a little hard to turn and then back off a notch or two).

:beer:

you're a legend marbles!
 
shoot I've been busy, at school. updates are weeks old:doh: anyway, fitted the snorkel, safari. then it rained... and rain means muddddd:bounce: look at the front tyre lame...

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