Root Beer Float, my 1990 HZJ77 (1 Viewer)

[broth9640]

I should watch the 70 series forum more closely.

Did the 33x10.50s make the truck steer super straight?

The pictures really don't do the truck justice, I must say. It's much cleaner in person than even these pics show.

Dan

It does steer pretty straight now. It does handle similar to my 40 in the sense that on the highway the wheel base doesn't fit well between the road grooves from the semi trucks. I think the tie rods have done a nice job over the last 25yrs, but replacement is probably in the future.

I have dialed the boost controller in to give approx 10 when I stomp on it. The EGT's never exceed 1000F and she cools down immediately. Just cruising on the highway she pulls between 5-7 on the boost and max EGT is around 750F. She runs so nice.

The engine temperature gauge barely moves. Initially we thought the thermostat was stuck open, I am not so sure anymore. After driving her home from the airport it was blowing hot air out of the heater after only driving for a few minutes. The gauge moves about 1/8 of the way off the full cold position, but quickly returns to full cold position after idling for only a few mins at a stop light. The gauge clearly works, but I am not sure how accurate it is. I have ordered a new thermostat, so we will see what happens after I swap that out.


I have also ordered a provent 200 to separate the oil out of the crankcase vent prior to going back through the turbo and a 1hdt air intake lid to re-plumb the intake section of the turbo to look more stock and generally look cleaner. Silicone pipe and stainless Tclamps will be ordered too once I figure out what pieces I need.

The turbo oil and coolant lines will also be redone and converted to stainless lines with AN fittings. I am undecided about eliminating the coolant all together. The other big decision will be to drill and tap the block to make a new oil supply line. Currently the oil is coming from a t fitting off of the oil pressure on the opposite side of block, so the supply line drapes across the top of the valve cover.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

we don't have a drool face on here...maybe we need to add that..

Probably not a good idea. There are some of us that have reached the age where we drool because we can't help it more so than out of envy.

 

[broth9640]

Here is more or less what I am going for. If I decide to keep the coolant running through the turbo, I will do it from this side. Currently it runs from the heater line on the other side of the engine across the valve cover. This picture shows the oil coming from the far side like mine is currently set up. I may keep this, but I may also drill and tap the block. It will depend on what kind of success or difficulty DanS HJ45 has while drilling his. He will be the Canary in the coal mine so to speak. Here is the thread if you don't have any idea as to what I am talking about or want to follow along. If that doesn't work out then I will just do it like its done here and run it from the other side, but clean it up with a stainless hose and use some nice clamps to mount it along the fire wall rather than drape it across the top of the valve cover.
Additional Oil Pressure Location for 1HZ/1HD-T?

 

[broth9640]

Here you can see how the PO cut the heater line on the far side of the engine and placed this t fitting with a hard line across the top of the block. Ugly and janky looking. It will be removed and a new heater hose has been ordered from Beno. You can also see the oil line next to it running across the top of the motor. Drives me nuts.

 

[broth9640]

This just showed up at my door.

 

[ForealBoreal]

What are the plans for cleaning up the lines?
I did my water cooling lines tapped off the heater core pipes.
I am on the fence when I do my timing belt in the next 15,000km on how I should reroute or redo them.
I put my oil feed line across the back of the firewall without trouble.

 

[broth9640]

What are the plans for cleaning up the lines?
I did my water cooling lines tapped off the heater core pipes.
I am on the fence when I do my timing belt in the next 15,000km on how I should reroute or redo them.
I put my oil feed line across the back of the firewall without trouble.

I will be tapping the heater core line from the near side (like this pic) rather than the far side (see my pic), just like the one I posted above shows. I believe the 1HDT does something similar. I am also on the fence about removing coolant from the Turbo all together. I have been told that it isn't necessary for diesel motors, but I haven't confirmed this. This would be ideal because it would keep the coolant from getting hot and struggling to keep your engine cool in warm climates. It also has the advantage of reducing failure points.

The Oil feed line is going to be from across the engine bay from a T off of the oil presser sender. I will run it across the back of the fire wall to keep it clean and replace the line with a nice stainless hose with AN fittings. I wanted to drill the block for another oil pressure port, but that has turned out to be a risky endeavor while the engine is in the vehicle. It is currently a mix of hard and soft lines across the top of the engine.

 

[coldtaco]

can you post a better picture of the down pipe? I need to make one for my project and that kind of looks like how I did mine but mine did not look so good.

 

[broth9640]

that is not my down pipe, that is a random picture off of the internet.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Any idea what kind of turbo is on the truck?
My current system is very close to the photo you have shown.
I used a T setup so I can still retain the factory oil pressure, aftermarket sensor and a feed all from the same spot.
The water lines may be switched to a factory style setup to make them look clean and tidy.

And for the love of all things holy please get a proper airbox on that truck, If you are hoping to crank some power out of the 1hz look at a custom one running a big panel filter.....

 

[broth9640]

Any idea what kind of turbo is on the truck?
My current system is very close to the photo you have shown.
I used a T setup so I can still retain the factory oil pressure, aftermarket sensor and a feed all from the same spot.
The water lines may be switched to a factory style setup to make them look clean and tidy.

And for the love of all things holy please get a proper airbox on that truck, If you are hoping to crank some power out of the 1hz look at a custom one running a big panel filter.....

Ha ha! yes the air box is driving me mad too. not sure what turbo it is. A stock air box with an 1HDT lid is in the works with new silicone hoses and stainless t clamps.

 

[NLScooby]

I am also on the fence about removing coolant from the Turbo all together. I have been told that it isn't necessary for diesel motors, but I haven't confirmed this. This would be ideal because it would keep the coolant from getting hot and struggling to keep your engine cool in warm climates.

I was curious about this since I have other Turbo-charged vehicles that don't have water lines running to them. I did some research and, to my surprise, discovered that the main benefit of the water cooling is actually experienced after the engine is shut off!
"HOW?" you may ask? Here's an explanation from the garrett website:

It is true that during normal engine operation water flows through the turbocharger mostly due to pressure created by the engine’s water pump. However, an additional phenomenon known as “thermal siphoning” pulls water through the turbo’s center housing if the water lines are properly routed, even after the engine is shut off and the water pump is no longer pumping.

And as it turns out this is a good thing because more damage is often done after the engine is shut down due to "Heat Soakback" (described on the website as follows:

Once the engine is shut down, the oil flow stops and so does the exhaust gas flow through the turbine – but all of that heat stored by the exhaust manifold and turbine housing still remains. This heat must go somewhere. Its only escape paths are either to be transferred via conduction into the turbo’s center section and the exhaust downpipe, or to radiate into the surrounding air under the hood. A small amount of heat will be transferred to the surrounding air via radiation and convection, but the great majority will conduct from the turbine housing into the center housing, since the center housing is at a lower temperature. Additionally, some of the heat will travel from the turbine wheel into the shaft and out towards the bearing system. During this phase of turbine & exhaust cool down, as the heat is “soaking back” into the turbo’s center section, the temperatures of the center housing, oil seal, bearings and any oil remaining in the turbo are all elevated above the normal operating temperatures that occurred while the engine was running, since the oil flow is no longer available to carry heat away.

So Garrett is adamant that if your turbo has the fittings - then it was designed to be cooled in that manner - and should be for longevity and durability.

 

[NLScooby]

Just also discovered this - which may be leading to the confusion...

Vehicles with extremely low exhaust gas temperatures and no water cooling system (low-output diesels or purpose-built methanol / alcohol fueled dragsters, for example) may not require a water-cooling system for the turbocharger.

I am not sure what "extremely low EGTs" are, but I think 1000 is not in that category.....and we do have water cooling systems!

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Just also discovered this - which may be leading to the confusion...

Vehicles with extremely low exhaust gas temperatures and no water cooling system (low-output diesels or purpose-built methanol / alcohol fueled dragsters, for example) may not require a water-cooling system for the turbocharger.

I am not sure what "extremely low EGTs" are, but I think 1000 is not in that category.

Shouldn't you be at work, doing "work things"?

 

[NLScooby]

Shouldn't you be at work, doing "work things"?

Aha - I guess the honeymoon is over and the gloves are off, eh?

Yes, I should be working...thank you, Mr. Buzzkill......

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Aha - I guess the honeymoon is over and the gloves are off, eh?

Yes, I should be working...thank you, Mr. Buzzkill......

 

[onemanarmy]

Not much to add, except the steelies and 33x10.5 tires look amazing.

 

[broth9640]

Thanks for all the info on the turbo cooling. I will leave it as is for now. It does have an extra cooler on the front bumper for both the coolant and the oil. Seems over kill and I haven't seen anyone else running this. I suppose more cooling is better, but I hate having stuff on the front bumper. I suppose it could be moved behind the grill.

 

[broth9640]

Pulled the interior today to remove a bunch of stereo and equipment wires. Pretty happy about how clean it all is. I also took the opportunity during this nice warm weather to finish up the shampoo interior detail job.

 

[broth9640]

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