Who needs to put stuff on the roof? I'm sure Manuchao will take these things into consideration...I'm just happy to see someone else chop up a LC...
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- Thread starter MANUCHAO
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James Baroud has a model of their tent you can carry a full size spare tire on top and you can still open it normally...with the right struts it shouldn't be a problem.
They use AL-KO struts.
Pumped to see how this turns out
They use AL-KO struts.
Pumped to see how this turns out
Subscribed. Can't wait to see what this looks like.
Interesting project. I looked into this a couple of years ago and decided that it would be better to take the complete roof off a scrap camper van/dormobile type than start from scratch. A 'pop-top' Merc turned up in the local scrappers which could have fitted but I decided it was too much work for me.
Good luck with your build!
Good luck with your build!
- Thread starter
- #25
To answer all that, the plan is to frame (box it in) the roof for rigidity (amazing / scary how little reinforced material there is on the roof of these rigs..but what do I know)
The framing will take careof the water proofing and hopefully rust.
As for rust prevention painting it with a rust inhibitor will go in
The plan is to make it as low of a profile as possible, but Im on the fence on this, as a few more inches will allow me to keep sleeping bags and pillows up there full time and make the top more better
.Im thinking the whole thing will go 3" above the stock roof line.
Gutters will be use to sit the lower section of the pop top, but not used for anchers as its the case with most roof racks.
We will see... the noise factor will be minimal (me thinks)... with my current set up I dont have any noise issues.
The plan is to carry surfboards and a Yakima, Thule cargo box...but I hear yah Ian.
I want to be able to stand on top of this thing without any worries....
Theron, thanks for that link. I have used McMaster Carr struts with my (long gone) previous aluminum trailer lid with great results, but it is good to have other options available.
Me too...!!!
It will be a slow build as time is in short order now days, but it sure is FUN to cut into this roof and see how it is all put together....
My guesstimate is that the section of the roof that I already cut is probably over 100@
My current set up is probably 250@-300@ (RTT is about 100@ and roof rack is all steel with the swingout & awning included another 150@).
Hopefully once this is all done I'll be closer to bare stock roof weight....!!
Cheers !!!
EDIT: I contacted hiloroofs and they wont sell me a set due to it being a patented design, but they did say they where willing to sell me a whole kit...
Good Luck! Also, the upside to a patented design is that the design is in the public record: Intellectual Property Office - Patent document and information service (Ipsum)
This doc may help: https://www.ipo.gov.uk/types/patent...2/GB2494750-20130320-Publication document.pdf
Have fun!
To answer all that, the plan is to frame (box it in) the roof for rigidity (amazing / scary how little reinforced material there is on the roof of these rigs..but what do I know)
The framing will take careof the water proofing and hopefully rust.
As for rust prevention painting it with a rust inhibitor will go in
The plan is to make it as low of a profile as possible, but Im on the fence on this, as a few more inches will allow me to keep sleeping bags and pillows up there full time and make the top more better
Im thinking the whole thing will go 3" above the stock roof line.
Gutters will be use to sit the lower section of the pop top, but not used for anchers as its the case with most roof racks.
We will see... the noise factor will be minimal (me thinks)... with my current set up I dont have any noise issues.
The plan is to carry surfboards and a Yakima, Thule cargo box...but I hear yah Ian.
I want to be able to stand on top of this thing without any worries....
Theron, thanks for that link. I have used McMaster Carr struts with my (long gone) previous aluminum trailer lid with great results, but it is good to have other options available.
Me too...!!!
It will be a slow build as time is in short order now days, but it sure is FUN to cut into this roof and see how it is all put together....
My guesstimate is that the section of the roof that I already cut is probably over 100@
My current set up is probably 250@-300@ (RTT is about 100@ and roof rack is all steel with the swingout & awning included another 150@).
Hopefully once this is all done I'll be closer to bare stock roof weight....!!
Cheers !!!
You want to keep all your bedding in the poptop
With a poptop it is quieter inside than without
You want to make the top out of aluminum for weight carrying abilty
It is more difficult to have a stable set up with scissor hinge
James Baroud's newest version of their tent has a gas strut that raises up, like they always have, but then you push inward on the knee and lock it in place...not sure if it's custom made just for them but if you could find it from their mfg'r that would be dialed in
Almost all strut manufacture offer the same lock out option.
Personally I dont see the need or the benefit on a poptop.Almost all strut manufacture offer the same lock out option.
Benefit is that it makes closing it a lot easier. I've used both, my tent doesn't have the lock out option, and I'd swap for a newer one if it was offered. But you're right, it ain't for everyone.
Sorry I thought we were talking poptop. FWIW my poptop is super easy to close with no lock outs needed.
Good info to know for James Baroud owners.
A friend just returned from NM with the latest James Baroud and the biggest complaint was it being a PIA to Close and questioning the durability of the fiberglass where the rear latch attaches because of the closing issue. I will let him know what needed option he missed out on.
- Thread starter
- #32
The whole thing will be made out of aluminum....
The issue Im having is if I want to have the front pop-up about 12" to 15" at the front....
Yeah its probably harder to make, but having a RTT like the Variant I have come to find out that you have some dead space at the front.
I dont like my toes hitting the roof of the tent at the front....thus the 15" of pop-up.
We'll see what I decide on as time goes by, but right now im leaning toward the same set up pictured on the first post.
The issue Im having is if I want to have the front pop-up about 12" to 15" at the front....
Yeah its probably harder to make, but having a RTT like the Variant I have come to find out that you have some dead space at the front.
I dont like my toes hitting the roof of the tent at the front....thus the 15" of pop-up.
We'll see what I decide on as time goes by, but right now im leaning toward the same set up pictured on the first post.
Well, I am certainly interested to see how this turns out. The hinge idea type you are going to use is really cool.
GOOD TECH!!!
I am starting to think about the same type of thing (and have another thread started to discuss it). My though is a top that goes straight up on all sides rather than hinged and at an angle when raised.
Subscribed! 
I always though the flip pac arrangement was just awesome for maximizing "indoor" space. If my wife wasn't adamant about hard sides, I probably would have bought a flip pac and cut it up and tried to frankenstein it onto the roof of my cruiser
I always though the flip pac arrangement was just awesome for maximizing "indoor" space. If my wife wasn't adamant about hard sides, I probably would have bought a flip pac and cut it up and tried to frankenstein it onto the roof of my cruiser
