Horn Button Losing Ground (1 Viewer)

[Ridge Runner]

One of the 60s that I just bought has a malfunctioning horn. It only works when the steering wheel is straight through turned 90 degrees to the left. Pulled the steering wheel off last night thinking it was losing contact, but it isn't. Still got the switch contacts cleaned at least.

It would appear that the horn grounds through the steering shaft, but I'm not sure where exactly the shaft is grounded. Has anyone else had this problem before?

 

[Mace]

Switch contacts are only touching at the specific position of the wheel. A new contract will fix that, our you can do the .22 lr casing mod.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Thanks. Contact was clean, appeared flat, and exhibited normal wear marks all the way around, but I have to pull the wheel back off anyway, so I'll check it again.

 

[Slow Left]

The new horn pins have quite a bit more material on them than the used ones...they lose a lot of material as they wear down since they are in constant contact with the round contact plate on the back of the steering wheel. Also might want to get a new contact plate or flip the old one around.

 

[augirthedude]

My horn has not worked ... well never . are these items still available at the dealer?

 

[Slow Left]

My horn has not worked ... well never . are these items still available at the dealer?

Yep. At least as of 2 years ago...but simple enough to confirm...and if I remember correctly, the horn pin is pretty inexpensive as well as a new contact plate (I'd try flipping around the current one first, so that the new pin doesn't see any grooves).

 

[theside00]

You can still get new horn pins from toyota. We ordered a few of them a couple of weeks ago.

 

[Mace]

What was the price?

 

[NCFJ]

It is easy to check the circuit, 99% of the time it is the pin, Call Beno, they are like $8 Clean the grounding contacts too. You can check it all with a test light.

 

[Bennis]

I think I have the same problem!! I put on a factory 61/62 series wheel onto my HJ61 (its a white lightning so came with an ugly momo thing that was ripped and torn). I went for a drive and the horn got stuck on, and the wire inside even started to flame up and smoke was coming out. Had to frantically rip the plug and fuse out lol. Its still unplugged but I will have to have a look at it this weekend and see if this is the same problem you have.

 

[Spiva]

Don't forget the dielectric grease for the pin and contact plate. It'll help the new pin to last longer. And you won't hear any grinding when you turn.

 

[Output Shaft]

Don't forget the dielectric grease for the pin and contact plate. It'll help the new pin to last longer. And you won't hear any grinding when you turn.

Use conducting grease like copper anti-seize. Dielectric grease is an insulating grease designed to NOT conduct electricity.

Also, a 50 cent threaded brass hex offset works great. Just thread it over the old plunger.

 

[Crick60]

Yeah I just wouldn't use any grease, there's is no real reason to and if there was there would be a maintenance schedule for it.
It could help with wear and noise but in reality all it would do is collect copper dust and dirt that could become a conductive gel and work its way into places you don't want it to be.

The grinding occurs when the surfaces are uneven usually when the pin is all but worn down, I just replace mine and the grinding stopped once I'd replaced the pin.

 

[Ridge Runner]

@Mace was correct. Despite everything appearing to be within spec, replacing the contact ring and pin corrected the problem. Thanks!

My cost was:
Pin - $5.54
Ring - $9.56

 

[BJethro]

I'm reviving this old thread because I'm doing this repair. How do you get the pin out with out breaking things? Do you have to tear the steering column apart?

 

[BJethro]

I fixed the horn! I used a 5/16 brass hex offset and drilled a larger hole in it with a 13/64 drill bit. I fitted it onto the pin and now the horn works great! Heres a link to some pictures showing what I did. Thanks

https://goo.gl/photos/WGR3SxbazYWMX6mo7