Stock Land Cruiser PTO shaft information needed. (1 Viewer)

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On land cruisers there are 2 thicknesses used. When they went to the 3 piece shaft the tubing got thinner.

Pete
 
On land cruisers there are 2 thicknesses used. When they went to the 3 piece shaft the tubing got thinner.

Pete

Curious if the shorter lengths was the reason for the thinner wall tubing? Also curious what the reason was for change in 79 to the frame side rail instead of the radiator mount? Then with the 83 model adding a another pillow block bearing with shorter shafts.
 
Here are few pictures of the welds a PO used instead of a shear pin. Need to get the U joint apart to get a Dremel grind out the weld to save the end of the shaft and collar.
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Rust splines why the PO destroyed the pillow block to get out. One to the right gives a idea of how the shaft is in the collar. With the U joint apart could probably use a brass punch to break away.

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Pictures of shafts including one from the 77 FJ55 which is real close to the 81/82 FJ40 design. Never noticed it only has U joint in the middle and no flange. The housing on the pillow block is steel not aluminum. Broken aluminum pillow block is also the picture.

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Some of my PTOs and winches Need to organize my shelves. Would be easier to do if the A/C in the boxes in front of were out of the way and cooling the garage instead.:rolleyes:
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Noticed a lot of pto winch parts in your pictures. Looking for thr fron rad bracket mounted pillow block and shaft assembly. Do you have anything available?
 
Modified 1000 series for bj60 pto.
Yoke was shortened, reamed to fit pto shaft, turned down and fitted with a 35mm sleeve for seal surface. I will be using 1000 series part for the rest of the driveline.

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5 days from the other side of the world to the US by general surface mail is unheard of that thing must have been on the first flight out of the country :)

You've probably got that PTO bolted onto the side of the transfer case by now and found that the 2 left hand bolts are pretty tight and fiddly to get in

If you're going to use non Toyota shafts and adapt them to fit try and modify as little as possible to get things to fit it always pays off in the long run when it comes to maintenance and repairs, my fj40 uses a landcruiser pto adapted to a Nissan patrol winch and a combination of different pto shafts joined together to get around the 3" exhaust, modified cross member and chevy engine mounts and it means I've had to get a lot of duplicate pieces machined up and fabricated as spare parts, my fj75 uses all standard winch and pto shafts and any spares are readily available and bolt straight in without having to machine and modify or re-invent anything.

if you cant find a yoke to bolt onto the PTO G/B flange you could make up an adaptor plate similar to how you do a bellhousing to gearbox adaptor to bolt onto the flange and clock 45° to re-drill for the John Deere or whatever other flange you have on the PTO shaft, sorry for the crude pic but I'm sure you'll get the idea and be able to machine up something prettier looking


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When it comes to the winch end of the shaft you want to try and get the shaft as straight dead on to the winch as you can get it, when the shaft attaches to the winch on an angle they tend to increase the rate that the coupling flogs out on the shaft with the continual lateral movement and force, when the coupling flogs out and becomes loose it puts more stress and load on the shear pin



Having said to modify as little as possible if you can use a different coupling onto the winch it'll save you a lot of headaches with broken shear pins, the Toyota couplings use a 4mm shear pin which is significantly under rated for the winch load capability and fails easily, unfortunately the coupling doesn't have enough meat left to drill it out any larger, some people have successfully managed to weld collars onto the end of the coupling so they can drill them out to a larger shear pin or sometimes use a spare yoke from a PTO shaft and machine the centre out to fit the winch shaft and drill that out for a larger shear pin, my Nissan winch uses a 8mm shear pin as opposed to Toyotas 4mm, my winch uses an identical wormgear and bronze wheel as Toyota use they are so similar that I'm pretty sure you could probably get away with swapping them over between winches so you could say both winches are basically identical strength. I've only ever broken one 8mm shear pin when I first got the truck 5 years ago and it gets put through a number of our local winch comps and tough truck comps out here without destroying the winch, you do get to read the winch and can feel and hear the loading and treat the winch accordingly when its working and working hard

coupling on the left is the Nissan patrol 8mm pin and right is the Toyota 4mm pin that cant successfully be drilled out without welding a collar to it


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this winch we did in the pics below, the fj40 that went up before me with a standard 4mm shear pin (he uses 4mm high tensile masonry nails) went through 3 or 4 pins winching up and we ended up winching him up with another truck, I think he sheared around a dozen pins that weekend he ended up running out of spares, the 8mm pin I was using is the same one I've been using for the past 5 years



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5 days from the other side of the world to the US by general surface mail is unheard of that thing must have been on the first flight out of the country :)

You've probably got that PTO bolted onto the side of the transfer case by now and found that the 2 left hand bolts are pretty tight and fiddly to get in

If you're going to use non Toyota shafts and adapt them to fit try and modify as little as possible to get things to fit it always pays off in the long run when it comes to maintenance and repairs, my fj40 uses a landcruiser pto adapted to a Nissan patrol winch and a combination of different pto shafts joined together to get around the 3" exhaust, modified cross member and chevy engine mounts and it means I've had to get a lot of duplicate pieces machined up and fabricated as spare parts, my fj75 uses all standard winch and pto shafts and any spares are readily available and bolt straight in without having to machine and modify or re-invent anything.

if you cant find a yoke to bolt onto the PTO G/B flange you could make up an adaptor plate similar to how you do a bellhousing to gearbox adaptor to bolt onto the flange and clock 45° to re-drill for the John Deere or whatever other flange you have on the PTO shaft, sorry for the crude pic but I'm sure you'll get the idea and be able to machine up something prettier looking


View attachment 1118945




When it comes to the winch end of the shaft you want to try and get the shaft as straight dead on to the winch as you can get it, when the shaft attaches to the winch on an angle they tend to increase the rate that the coupling flogs out on the shaft with the continual lateral movement and force, when the coupling flogs out and becomes loose it puts more stress and load on the shear pin



Having said to modify as little as possible if you can use a different coupling onto the winch it'll save you a lot of headaches with broken shear pins, the Toyota couplings use a 4mm shear pin which is significantly under rated for the winch load capability and fails easily, unfortunately the coupling doesn't have enough meat left to drill it out any larger, some people have successfully managed to weld collars onto the end of the coupling so they can drill them out to a larger shear pin or sometimes use a spare yoke from a PTO shaft and machine the centre out to fit the winch shaft and drill that out for a larger shear pin, my Nissan winch uses a 8mm shear pin as opposed to Toyotas 4mm, my winch uses an identical wormgear and bronze wheel as Toyota use they are so similar that I'm pretty sure you could probably get away with swapping them over between winches so you could say both winches are basically identical strength. I've only ever broken one 8mm shear pin when I first got the truck 5 years ago and it gets put through a number of our local winch comps and tough truck comps out here without destroying the winch, you do get to read the winch and can feel and hear the loading and treat the winch accordingly when its working and working hard

coupling on the left is the Nissan patrol 8mm pin and right is the Toyota 4mm pin that cant successfully be drilled out without welding a collar to it


View attachment 1118952



this winch we did in the pics below, the fj40 that went up before me with a standard 4mm shear pin (he uses 4mm high tensile masonry nails) went through 3 or 4 pins winching up and we ended up winching him up with another truck, I think he sheared around a dozen pins that weekend he ended up running out of spares, the 8mm pin I was using is the same one I've been using for the past 5 years



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good afternoon someone who has coupling for FJ40 Winch for sale???

for Miami Florida
 

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