Axle rebuild recommendations- locker and 34" tires (1 Viewer)

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I have to replace the housing on my bj46 as teh 70 series housing that I popped in there has (unbeknownst to me) a cut and turn and also very visible positive camber. Despite toe in being correct I am going thru a tire a year on the front right side. SOmethings funky and there are not any alignment shops here (or muffler shops or anything like any of that dammit!) The 70 series unit has been bashed on pretty hard and no telling if the shims are correct or any of that...

So I'm putting the original 46 axle back in with the cable locker. All new bearings and reset preload etc in the front dif. Given the shape of the rest of the 70 series axle I thought it not a bad idea to have a set of spare birfs and axles to go in- so I ordered up a set from RCV (Josh was verh helpful btw) and will pull the originals out and keep them as spares- though I doubt I will ever need them. These come with a complimentary set of inner hub gears. Its not so much that I really need these uts just that I don't have much confidence in the axles that were in the truck in the first place.

Along with the cable locker the truck will have 34" tires and the 3b will be turboed- nothing outrageous. I do not do any crawling but in addition to some yearly snow runs I get do get off into other stuff that requires the lockers regularly. Its deep snow and 2 times now the front trailblazing trucks have busted birfs- and that could be me. Should I do the studs as well or just leave the stock stuff in there. I do check the nuts regulalrly to be sure they are torqued. Any other "should add while I'm in there" stuff?

I also plan on Marlin seals. I am knee deep in Birf soup at the moment and I would not be dissapointed if I never had to see that again! Other than that unless the greater Mud community has any other advice its all stock

THx-

Pete
 
Hi all,

Pete, my understanding (and experience) with breaking front CVs (aka Birfield joints) on a 'wheeling rig has been that "Birfs" bust when backing up with the steering wheel fully cranked left or right.

Regarding upgrading OE hardware, such as the studs on the steering knuckles, I can't see any harm in replacing 30 - 40 year old fasteners with newer replacements, especially on a 'wheeler.

So, if you keep the wheels pointed straight, you should not have any breakage issues ("knock on wood.") ;)

Regards,

Alan
 
Alan-

I think that's exactly how these guys bust them I'm the snow. That and the repeated back and forth ramming that they do to clear the trail for all of the other trucks. High rpm tire spinning with heavy chains may help.....

I'm not sure about the 60series arms but the 70's have beefier tre's. But to change the arms shouldn't I re-measure the shims? I suppose I could measure the difference between the one I take out and the replacement. But I think I'll save that till I do the power steering.

What's the word on upgrading the studs?

Pete
 

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