Turn Key. Click. Again..!! (1 Viewer)

[IBFJ62]

Ok, so I know this has been discussed frequently, but I'm starting to pull my hair out and am hoping that someone might shed some light on this that I haven't seen. I'm having the occasional (getting more frequent) dreaded symptom of turning the key, and just getting a mutherfing click. Try a couple times, and she usually starts eventually. I've replaced the starter connections, the ignition switch, battery, checked the cable connections/grounds (going to replace as next step) and every time I think 'Ah Hah! I've got it', it comes back..

Now, I'm also starting to get an occasional hard start. She turns over, but is acting like it's not getting fuel. My suspicions are starting to fall on the fuel relay (i think that's what it's called, the one under the passenger side kickpanel..) I've recently replaced the fuel pump/filter/FPR/injectors, so I don't think it's those.

My question is, would the fuel relay not working have any relationship to the 'click' syndrome?? Thanks.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

check fusible links- REPLACE fusible links. check EFI relay. now for the staring issue...have you dug into the neutral safety start switch? I can't remember exactly where it is, but I think it might get covered in the H55 and splitcase tech thread a couple pages back(Orangefj45)- dig up the NSS bypass stuff and go from there...

 

[IBFJ62]

Took a look at the fusible links, and they looked good, but that's not to say they aren't shot inside. I've looked at the EFI relay and saw nothing that indicated it was in bad shape. Both it and the fuel relay looked basically as-new, but internally, who knows.

As for the neutral switch, I swapped in the H55 a few years ago, so I have bypassed it. I guess I should dig in and check my connections though..

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

download the FSM from Trollhole and TS the efi relay circuit and relay using a volt-ohm meter. Ohm the links. clip the test leads to the starter trigger and ground and set the meter to HOLD and VOLTS- so it records and holds the highest read value- and turn the key. check the meter for 12 volts, clear, reset and retest about 2 dozen times to make sure that you have a circuit to the starter. If not, the problem lay upstream from there. if you have a consistent circuit to the starter, then the issue is with the starter.
one more thing- I had a set of bad battery cables once that visually looked great and even measured good with an ohm meter. after trying EVeRYTHING else it could have been, we swapped the battery cables and vroom...check your big battery positive...

 

[micruz60]

You've replaced the starter connections, but have you replaced the starter?

 

[gregnash]

You've replaced the starter connections, but have you replaced the starter?

^^^ This!
And just because the fusible links look good does not mean much. What did you check? Did you pull the connectors apart to see what the spades inside looked like? On my 60 everything looked fine and I would get occasional hard start, then one night on the way home from softball, on the freeway at 10pm I heard a pop and my interior lights went completely out along with my stereo. Come to find out that the wire had corroded at the rubber plug where the spade goes into the connector body and slowly eaten away at the wires. Eventually what happened, on the road, was the wires snapped but were close enough that they would make a connection (hard start). Luckily for me this was on the battery side and I was able to find a replacement piece.

 

[IBFJ62]

Ok, first confession, I've got about as much electrical wizardry knowledge to make myself dangerous, but it's certainly not my speseality, when the conversation gets into measuring ohms, I'm getting lost. I've got a meter, but barely know how to use it..

That said, I pulled apart the green fusible links at the battery, and inside they look fine. Blades and connections showed no corrosion that I noticed. I had the ol headlights suddenly go out on my old '83 hilux 4x on a baja trip from the fusible link connection failing, so I looked at that. I have replaced the starter, but after pulling it out to replace the connections, it looks a bit older than my recollection, as I thought I had replaced it about 2 years ago, and the rubber and gaskets looked fairly old, but at most it's 6 years old. I guess new starter is on the list.. I've also got the gut feeling that the cables need to be replaced. I've cleaned up the connections, but it still has that feeling that there's just not a good ground to the starting loop.

Thanks for the suggestions, and any others are certainly welcome. I just rebuilt the motor earlier this year to put in front of the new H55, and it's pissing me off that I've got this damn starting gremlin lurking and seems to be getting worse despite my attempts to fix it...

 

[micruz60]

Yea, electric gremlins are no fun. I believe there are (6) key grounds for the cruiser, do a search here and then check 'em out. Verify good connections. It's good that the fusibles don't show corrosion.

 

[Freewheel]

Check brushes in the starter. The big click is the starter solenoid working, and if the starter isn't spinning then there's either not enough power to the starter (everything else you are checking) or the brushes in the starter are worn. Often hitting the side of the starter with a hammer temporarily can fix this. Did you have a new starter put in 6 years ago, or was it used?

 

[87CRUSR]

Key grounds info screen shot from recent post.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

how old is the battery?

 

[zapata]

get a new starter.....i promise you thats it. 45min job and good to go

 

[IBFJ62]

Thanks guys, I'm going to start with the ground connection checks (it has that feeling), and move on to the new cables. If no improvement, I'll stick a new starter in. Battery is a red top optima, that was the first thing I replaced when this started happening about a year ago. Alt charging looks fine, so I don't think it's the battery. I stuck a 'new' remanufactured starter in there a few years ago, but I suppose it could be failing by this point, since the rubber seals are looking pretty hard.

 

[gregnash]

Looks at the MFG place and year of the red top. There was some problems with their batteries that were being built in Mexico so I would definitely get it checked. Hell, take it to autozone, checker/oreilly/etc. and have them do a systems check to see if they can pinpoint for you if you haven't yet.

 

[IBFJ62]

Hmm, not sure I'd feel comfortable with one of the knuckleheads at Autozone touching my girl.. I'll take a look at the battery manufacture date.

 

[SteveH]

I stuck a 'new' remanufactured starter in there a few years ago, but I suppose it could be failing by this point, since the rubber seals are looking pretty hard.

Was it a Toyota reman? If not, I'd put a crappy reman starter at the top of my blame list. The next time it 'clicks but won't start' - have someone hold the key in the 'start' position while you tap the starter with an axe handle (or similar heavy, long object) and see if it starts. If so, then it's 99% likely to be the solenoid contacts inside the starter.

My Toyota dealers sells starter contacts (by the truckload) for Toyota starters. If you doubt the entire starter, however, get a reman Denso at the dealer, and you should be good for several years.

 

[IBFJ62]

Yeah, not a Denso, but it's a Bosch starter, which I generally have faith in, since Bosch is OEM on a lot of my old BMW and I've had good luck with them so far. I just replaced the copper connections with new Toyota, but it could be the brushes. Of course when it does the 'turn-click' usually there is no one else around, but I'll try the ol' smack-a-starter if possible next time..

 

[gregnash]

Hmm, not sure I'd feel comfortable with one of the knuckleheads at Autozone touching my girl.. I'll take a look at the battery manufacture date.

Understandable but this would be to run some tests on the starter, alternator, regulator and battery to see if one of those is at fault. Would be a starting point and the battery is my first culprit.... these trucks are pretty "analog" for the most part so for them not to start is usually something pretty simple missing in the link of items.
Always remember the KISS method as it normally is something in that realm.

 

[Elbert]

get the battery load tested...only way to know the battery's status.

Oh yeah...and consider replacing your battery cables (all of them) no matter how they look...they are 25+ years old.... Have NAPA or someplace make some for you out of better wire.

Not saying this is your problem but it could be.... and of course the starter is subject to being the root cause. 20+ year old battery cables not a good thing.

 

[IBFJ62]

I've got 3 more weeks until the kids are out for school, then I'm pulling the cables and going a size up (of course I've got my car in 'need to fix this' status at the same time..). I think I'll just go ahead and order a new starter as well. If it still goes 'click', I'll probably be doing some body work to fix the foot shaped dent..