Project 180 SAS 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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Curious to know the advantages of the ORI's and price difference over a coil over. How much of a PITA would it be to run with a spring perch and shock. Yours is the only conversion of the 100 I've seen that used these.
 
Curious to know the advantages of the ORI's and price difference over a coil over. How much of a PITA would it be to run with a spring perch and shock. Yours is the only conversion of the 100 I've seen that used these.

The price of the ORI's is a little more than coilover's but you don't' need bump stops and a sway bar. If you add in the price of those the ORI's are cheaper.

IMO running the 80 style front suspension would be cheaper and maybe a littler easier to setup.

Cut n paste:

ORI STX Strut Features
  • Can be set to mid-stroke ride height and still control body roll, and not push off.
  • Conventional air shocks are set to low ride height to prevent push-off, but bottom quickly over bumps as a result. ORIs set at mid-stroke will both suck up the bumps, and will drop out quickly over the whoops. No trade-offs in performance.
  • Coil-Overs are set close to full extension to reduce body roll. ORIs set at mid-stroke are ready to react, whether it be to compress when hitting a bump, or to drop out in an instant over a rut, maintaining a more level, comfortable ride at speed.
  • Stable on side hills and fast turns. Most users dump the sway bar.
  • Tuneable anywhere from firm ride to loose articulation by simply adjusting nitrogen gas pressures.
  • Velocity-sensitive compression damping: Soft ride changes to firm compression damping as piston shaft compression speed increases.
  • 7-position externally-adjustable rebound damping.
  • Internal hydraulic bump stop.
  • Adjustable for rapid drop-out over high-speed whoops.
  • No fading or overheating.
  • Most customers also dump the external bump stops and limit straps.
  • Tough 1-3/4" diameter piston shaft.
  • Compact, simple installation fits tight spaces.
  • Much higher load-carrying capacity than conventional air shocks.
  • All load support is on nitrogen gas, so no coil springs to mess with.
  • Spring rate easily adjusted by changing oil volume and gas pressures.
 
If gross vehicle weight exceeds 6000 lbs., it is suggested that you mount either additional struts or other suspension support.

The axles and tires would not count on that weight since they are not supported by the struts.
 
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Any dash lights on since doing this?

Did the driveshafts line up or off set?

Is the transfer case indexed any or left in stock location?
 
My ABS light is on only because I have not yet spliced in the sensors. I am not sure if I want ABS since it might be a hindrance with the larger tires. I am going to hook them up though and run a kill switch so I can shut it off.

The driveshafts all lined up perfectly so I have not touched the transfer case.
 
If gross vehicle weight exceeds 6000 lbs., it is suggested that you mount either additional struts or other suspension support.

The axles and tires would not count on that weight since they are not supported by the struts.
I have an email from ORI directly counter to this. They absolutely mean the GVW, including the unsprung weight.
 
I have an email from ORI directly counter to this. They absolutely mean the GVW, including the unsprung weight.
Seems weird to include any parts not supported in a recommended load rating. Email or not, just doesn't seem to make much sense.
 
Seems weird to include any parts not supported in a recommended load rating. Email or not, just doesn't seem to make much sense.
I thought they meant unsprung weight as well when I was in the process of putting things together for my 80 build, but I was convinced through a lengthy email conversation that I should consider doubling up the struts if they were the direction I wanted to go. It's not often a manufacturer will talk you into something other than what would be a simple sale, but ORI did (which makes them an outstanding company IMO).
Others have run the struts at or beyond the weight limits listed without issue, I'm just expressing my experience with plans I had for a truck that runs a thousand pounds lighter than a 100 comparably equipped.
 
My ABS light is on only because I have not yet spliced in the sensors. I am not sure if I want ABS since it might be a hindrance with the larger tires. I am going to hook them up though and run a kill switch so I can shut it off.

The driveshafts all lined up perfectly so I have not touched the transfer case.
It'd be interesting if atrac would work after a swap like this?
 
I'm just expressing my experience with plans I had for a truck that runs a thousand pounds lighter than a 100 comparably equipped.

How is the 100 a thousand pounds heavier? A stock 80 weights 4,760 lbs and a 100 is 5,115 lbs. That makes the 100 only 355 lbs heavier.

Even with the unsprung weight, the 100 is under the recommended 6,000 lbs.

It'd be interesting if atrac would work after a swap like this?

I don't see why it wouldn't but I have been wrong before.;)
 
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How is the 100 a thousand pounds heavier? A stock 80 weights 4,760 lbs and a 100 is 5,115 lbs. That makes the 100 only 355 lbs heavier.

Even with the unsprung weight, the 100 is under the recommended 6,000 lbs.



I don't see why it wouldn't but I have been wrong before.;)
My 80, bumpers front and rear, sliders, 1/2" skid plate, on 39.5 iroks with a spare and a ton of recovery gear in the rear, weighed in at 6750lbs. The 100 series may have that little tag stating a curb weight, but it's definitely much heavier than an 80 series, especially once you start adding a bunch of armor and gadgets. Maybe someone has weighed theirs after outfitting it as described?
 
With all of the suspension finished I was ready to pull it out of the garage. That is when I got the dreaded click......click from the starter. Nothing like finishing up a major project only to have to jump right into another. I pulled the starter out and took it to a local shop to have it rebuilt.

After installing the rebuilt starter, I was getting a horrible grinding noise when running. AGAIN the intake manifold came off only to find when they rebuilt the starter they made the drive gear to long (left).

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Since I had the manifold off I thought I would do some cleaning up.

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I was inspecting all of the parts and noticed that the o rings on the injectors were a little dry.

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With the a new starter, clean intake and o rings it was back running and ready to get rinsed off.

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Beautiful rig! More pics please!!:popcorn:
 
After breaking in the gears I noticed I had a small leak out the pinion seal so I decided to pull it all apart to make sure everything was OK.:confused:

I also added Monstliner to the center of the hood and bottom of the 100. I like the way it turned out.

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