Brake noise (1 Viewer)

[sleepdoc]

My son has a 97 LX450 with 206K. Runs great but lately he has been saying that the brakes make a rumbling noise when he is about to come to complete stop. He thinks that it is the anti-lock brakes activating, but there would be no reason for that to happen. I drove it and feel like its simply new pads gripping and making noise as they are working.

There are no ABS lights on the dash illuminating or any other sounds I can hear.

Any suggestions on what it could be or if its just normal.

Thanks so much

 

[aae42]

well, is it new pads?

if you put new pads on it but didn't turn the rotors, you can get that crunching sound right before stopping until they're seated i think...

 

[sleepdoc]

Both sets of brakes are new within the last 10K miles. But neither in the last six months.

We just pulled the ABS fuse and the noise continued. Must not be related.

my son thinks there may be something on the pads like a rock or something, but he has not been off road or anywhere that might happen and it isn't a grinding noise like I would think a foreign body between pad and rotor would make.

I still think its nothing, just the noise pads make as they grip tight enough to stop, but he is bothered by it so I guess we will have someone look at the brakes. There is no issue with stopping or extra play in the pedal so I do not think it is dangerous, just annoying to him.

 

[YendraBuilt]

If you replaced the pads and didn't turn the rotors it could definitely make some noise. 90% of the time I do both at the same time, just did the front end on my '91 FJ80.

 

[Squash]

Lift her up and spin the tires while some one pumps the brakes to narrow it down.
Nothing beats pulling the tires off and inspecting.
Be sure to check the caliper mounting bolts.

 

[jfz80]

Before pulling the tire off go ahead and check for wheel bearing tightness grabbing at 6 and 12 o'clock and try and wiggle.

Another thought could be a dry spindle possibly.

There are also many reports of and activating just before coming to a stop. So that sure could be a cause but its obvious and with typ kickback feeling in the pedal as well. Not sure if pulling fuse would prevent this but sure seems like it would. Some fixes have been as easy as removing and sensor cleaning and replacing. Some not so easy.

 

[retrofive]

<snip> Not sure if pulling fuse would prevent this but sure seems like it would. Some fixes have been as easy as removing and sensor cleaning and replacing. Some not so easy.

In my case with the ABS kicking on randomly right before a slow stop pulling the fuse took care of it . One day I will fix the ABS.

 

[sleepdoc]

So I took the truck to our local Hibdons Tires Plus, where we usually get alignment and rotations etc done. They looked at the brakes and the outside pad on the right front was metal on metal. Both front brakes were done less than a year ago and the three other pads are not anywhere near worn out. He also checked the calipers and they were equal pressure and fine. I don't understand it? Maybe the pad fell off? Surely the rotor on that side wasn't so bad that it completely wore the pad down without showing any wear on the other three.

Anyway, they quoted me for new rotors and pads at $599.03. I about passed out. They said that the labor alone for getting the rotor off and back on was $225 because of the "hub" and needing to repack the bearings. Looked like 8 bolts to me, but what do I know?
I called a HS friend who has a tire shop in my hometown 45 minutes away and he said for that price I should get lipstick on my collar! He looked it up and with premium replacement parts his out the door price was $285.00. The firestone dealer here in town quoted me $316.00. I ended up taking it to my friend because he could get it scheduled faster than Firestone. But I am very disappointed in the Hibdons shop here.

SO, if anyone is in Oklahoma, Pioneer Tire in Stillwater is a great place to get your work done. Victor is the owner and he will not add on to what you need just to make some money.

 

[ppc]

One worn pad is a sign of frozen pistons in the caliper not allowing the pad to retract when the brake is released. The caliper needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Your buddy is giving you a hell of a price if that includes both front brakes. Repairing only one side which I would never do myself would still have to include a set of pads, a rebuild kit or remanufactured caliper, one rotor, one hub seal, one flange gasket, bearing grease and brake fluid. There would be a minimum of one hour labor if not two to pull the caliper and rebuild. remove the hub, replace the rotor, clean and repack the bearings, reassemble and bleed the brakes.

 

[sleepdoc]

Hibdons did check the caliper and it was not stuck or malfunctioning. I am surprised that it wasn't.

Final bill came to 313.00 for both fronts new rotors and pads and rebuild everything. I should get to pick it up this afternoon. I will ask him about the caliper again.