Caster Values Question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JRB14
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What correction are you running? The diff between the 2 does't seem that off, but the number seems high. Spec is 2-4*. I think if anything it would drive good based on those number even being on the high side, but any vibe or other things done?
Ummmmmm...... no.
Hi,
I'll take my chance on @JRB14 thread...
I'm having the opposite issue, I'm running OME J's plus OME CC bushings and I'm reading 1º on one side and around .5º on the other...
My main concern is not the diference between each side but the lack of correction by the OME bushings... So I'm thinking about replacing them with Ironman caster plates but I'm worried if then there's to much correction... Since the plates do 5º.
My doubt is raised since some OME older catalogs state that the bushings correct 2º and newer catalogs state that they correct 3º... Which is correct?
If the bushings only correct 2º it means my car running the plates will have a caster around 4º, to much or not?! Always eared of the 3º as the correct value. If the bushings correct 3º it will be spot on running the plates!! What do you recon?
Instead the Ironman... Am I better of with the more expensive XXI industries adjustable plates?
Cheers
I'll take my chance on @JRB14 thread...
I'm having the opposite issue, I'm running OME J's plus OME CC bushings and I'm reading 1º on one side and around .5º on the other...
My main concern is not the diference between each side but the lack of correction by the OME bushings... So I'm thinking about replacing them with Ironman caster plates but I'm worried if then there's to much correction... Since the plates do 5º.
My doubt is raised since some OME older catalogs state that the bushings correct 2º and newer catalogs state that they correct 3º... Which is correct?
If the bushings only correct 2º it means my car running the plates will have a caster around 4º, to much or not?! Always eared of the 3º as the correct value. If the bushings correct 3º it will be spot on running the plates!! What do you recon?
Instead the Ironman... Am I better of with the more expensive XXI industries adjustable plates?
Cheers
jfz80
Cruisin’
The 80 is quite different in many ways but mostly that with a coil/radius arm setup it uses eccentric control arm bushings or plates to adjust castor vs the shims that you should be able to use on your 40 with leaf springs. I just added 2* shims to solve a pinion vibe here on a 40
FWIW I'm on "j" lift and use MetalTech plates. They were built around that lift.
I wouldn't be at all worried about that small of variance, we see it regularly on factory un-modified axles.
As for @loucaojr, your simply running the wrong parts. the OME CA77B caster plates are not adequate for the J-Series or really any 3"+ kit. You can remove the caster bushings and replace with stock (OME also makes stock bushes fwiw) and then run a caster plate kit (we stock the Slee fwiw).
For all wondering, you can adjust caster on both sides or just one by using adjustable caster bearings:
Caster/Camber Adjusting Front Axle Knuckle Bearing Sets
2 sets per axle, Koyo Bearings. These unique bearing/race combos allow caster and camber adjustments without expensive axle modifications and repairs. Can be used to improve caster without decreasing pinion angle. Can also be used to reduce interference issues with tie rod on the 80 Series while increasing caster following a suspension install.
1/1990-1997 80 Series Applications:
Part# FA88915 - 1.0* Caster/Camber Adjustment - $112.50
Part# FA88920 - 3.0* Caster Adjustment Only - $112.50
Cruiser Outfitters
As for @loucaojr, your simply running the wrong parts. the OME CA77B caster plates are not adequate for the J-Series or really any 3"+ kit. You can remove the caster bushings and replace with stock (OME also makes stock bushes fwiw) and then run a caster plate kit (we stock the Slee fwiw).
For all wondering, you can adjust caster on both sides or just one by using adjustable caster bearings:
Caster/Camber Adjusting Front Axle Knuckle Bearing Sets
2 sets per axle, Koyo Bearings. These unique bearing/race combos allow caster and camber adjustments without expensive axle modifications and repairs. Can be used to improve caster without decreasing pinion angle. Can also be used to reduce interference issues with tie rod on the 80 Series while increasing caster following a suspension install.
1/1990-1997 80 Series Applications:
Part# FA88915 - 1.0* Caster/Camber Adjustment - $112.50
Part# FA88920 - 3.0* Caster Adjustment Only - $112.50
Cruiser Outfitters
If you haven't done anything to correct the caster, then you have negative 4.9 degrees. You want about + 3.0 degrees, so you need to add about 7 to 8 degrees of caster, which is about the maximum you can do without getting into problems with tie rod - steering arm interferance.
I'm surprised there isn't a bigger caster difference at 4' of lift. 4" is enough to throw things off, but 4' geez. Alright, I'm done nit picking, if you have + 4.9 you should be seeing smooth sailing depending on tire size. If you're running 35" or under it might be too much. And according to my print out from Toyota, stock caster is between 0-3* (+) not 2-4 as mentioned above. A variance of less than 0.5 is acceptable but not optimal. I have 40" tires and run between 3-5* less and it shimmies pretty wicked around 40-50 and really shakes decelerating from 40-50..you know what a paint can at Sherwin Williams feels like at 2* caster with big tires.
Thanks for your comments, since is not easy to get your products or slee's overseas I was wondering if the plates you're advising are similar in correction, let's say, to the Ironman ones?
Cheers
So you're running a 35" tire with 4.9* of caster. I am inclined to say that's too much caster for what you're running. If your steering feels a bit on the stiff side/slow or it fails to return to center on its own and or you have a wobbly steering wheel then you have too much. Solution, go to a lesser degree plate. Some people have had good results with that much caster with that size range of tire, but most of the time not so much. Back to the difference in side to side caster, once again it's not uncommon and not a big deal, some good alignment shops will even shoot for a difference like yours if they have a firm understanding of the effects of "road crown" compensating for the hump shape of roads with slightly different caster for the outside/passenger tire to help with steering so it doesn't have a tendency to wander to the gutter.
I can't say for certain what Ironman has for their caster plates but given their tendency to be very similar
to other product offerings, I'd suspect they are the same.
I also have the J up front, BFG T/A KM2-37 with sway bar drop brackets and Metal Tech Plates and It drives Like a car. The drivelines are perfect. I have 860 lift In the rear. I can let go of the wheel and the rig will go straight until the road pulls It one way or another. I can't believe the difference from the 850 with yellow bushings I could not let go of the wheel or drive with one hand. This set up works great. Good Luck..!
