Barn Rebuild: The family heirloom (1 Viewer)

[Heirloom]

Comment and question: Spring Green looks great (doing the same color). Wish I could DIY the paint.

I notice you left the holes for the snaps for a soft top. Are you planning on a soft top or leaving them just in case?

Any holes from the factory were left there. The soft top snap holes were original for this year, even though it wasn't a soft top Model.

I did leave a couple holes that weren't factory... Just forgot to fill them. Too late now.

If I can DIY the paint, anyone can.

Sent from my LGLS990

 

[Heirloom]

Hi all. Quick question:

What threads fit the drain bolt in the factory gas tank? I'm sifting through buckets of bolts and can't find my drain plug. Is it 12mm x 1.25? I know it is bigger than 10mm diameter.

Thanks.

Sent from my LGLS990

 

[DSB345]

Looks great!!!

 

[Heirloom]

Looks great!!!

Thanks. It's been a long project.

Sent from my LGLS990

 

[Heirloom]

Hey guys, I'm about to install the gauge cluster, and I am curious if the gauges are sensitive to polarity.

In other words, the fuel, oil, and temp gauges all share a common wire called "fuse box load side - meter" (source of 12+ voltage) and each gauge gets a second wire that goes to the sending unit (eventually a ground, sender regulates voltage causing gauges to read).

The back of the cluster has two poles per gauge. One is the common power source, the other is for the sender. Which is which?

Here's a pic of the back of my gauges. Let's call the poles #1-8,left to right. 1-2 are ammeter (not my question... Yet) 3-4 are fuel. 5-6are temp. 7-8 are oil. What poles attach to what wires? In the second pic, the solid yellow with three eyelets is the power source wire.

 

[Heirloom]

Never mind my question:

I found the answer in the FSM.

 

[Heirloom]

Well, I spent a little time in the garage today and made a couple small installs. I installed the "compound meter" and the glove box door.

Question: should I get the new shift instructions while they are on sale at SOR, or keep the vintage card for character?

 

[cruisermatt]

Get a new one and frame the old one.

 

[daniel.watters]

Great thread... Your truck is looking good!

 

[daniel.watters]

I'd go new plates, emblems, and factory (repro) stickers when you can....

 

[Heirloom]

Next question: I need to brighten and clean the dash turn signal lenses:

Who has experience with these? Seems to me that the "right" way would be to remove the plastic, polish and possibly refinish the metal parts, clean and reinstall the lenses.

Can I get good results without total disassembly? My first inclination is one of these two products and some elbow grease.

 

[brian]

Question: should I get the new shift instructions while they are on sale at SOR, or keep the vintage card for character?

View attachment 1168710

let them right were they are.

 

[Heirloom]

Next question: which hole in the tub do I pull the wiring harness through?

 

[Heirloom]

I still need to figure out how to route the wiring harness, but that will work itself out. A couple updates for anyone watching:

I ordered some lights. I need the tail lights, since my originals both broke studs on disassembly and one has a rusted through chrome trim ring.

Then I stripped the tail light harness to clean and restore. This harness was a little worse that the cowl harness.

The DIY trailer light harness was soldered in, and then the wires were clipped. There's green curriculum corrosion in a couple spots that weren't waterproofed properly.

My plan is to have a harness that works like a factory harness, plus a trailer plug for a simple 4-wire trailer. I'm going to make the splices as clean and well protected as I can. Let's see if I know what I'm doing. If Coolerman is looking, please don't get mad at my use of incorrect wire colors!

 

[diogenese]

I have left my door instruction plate as original like yours, I like the odd bit of patina.
I don't think it is possible to make a taped joint waterproof, I stagger splices about 25mm/1 inch or more apart to reduce the chance of "the evil green"

 

[Heirloom]

Ok, I want to have recognizable wires coming out of the harness. My plan, any wires that need repair will get a graft in the middle of the wire to lengthen. That way, anything that is poking out through the tape is the correct color.

My backup lamp wire was cut way too short at some point. I cut it even shorter, then I spliced a section of wire in. I added the pigtail in correct red/blue color to the end of the graft I added. All connections were tinned with solder, crimped with unshielded butt connectors, and heated to flow solder in the joint. Heat shrink was applied to insulate the joint.

 

[diogenese]

I like the idea of having the exposed wire colours correct.

 

[Heirloom]

I have left my door instruction plate as original like yours, I like the odd bit of patina.
I don't think it is possible to make a taped joint waterproof, I stagger splices about 25mm/1 inch or more apart to reduce the chance of "the evil green"

I'm using silicon self-sealing tape for the portion of the harness that is under the tub and hoping for the best as far as water proof-ness is concerned. I used a little solder at my splices to dissuade water penetration as well. Nothing I did is a guarantee. The twisted-and-taped joints I replaced are far worse than my splices, so I have that going for me.

 

[Heirloom]

It seems like my write-ups are not what they have been during the barn phase. My productivity is great, having this thing right next to my house!

Chassis harness is taped and beautiful. I pulled it through the frame and loosely lined it up.

I can endorse the vinyl "pro" electrical tape from NAPA, by the way. I looks like it should hold up for a while. I shrouded the entire harness in split accordion wire wrap, then tape. This combo should be relatively durable.

 

[Heirloom]

Wiring harness saga continued:

I spent a little time routing electrics. The cowl harness is horseshoe shaped, starting at the alternator on the driver side, going into the tub behind the gauges, and exiting the tub under the glove box, ultimately terminating at the junction box for the bib harness on the passenger inner fender.

I am not 100% sure I am using the correct holes in the tub for routing purposes, so I took a few pics to show how I have things aligned.

Here is a shot taken on the firewall from the interior under the glove box. The upper right hole is where I pulled the portion of the harness for the headlights, horn, and chassis junction through. The left opening is where I routed the starter and coil pigtail. Is this correct?

This is under the cowl vent, routing the harness over the transfer case shift linkage. If I bend the wire retainer right here, the fuse box wires fit about right. I pulled the signal wire for the temp gauge out of the tub through the hole nearest the sending unit.

I spent an hour with an ohm meter testing the ignition switch, and that portion of the wiring harness (again) to make sure everything had correct conductivity. The fuse box and cover seem to have survived so far, so I'm sticking with those parts.

This image doesn't clearly explain what I did, but I routed the pigtails for the ignition switch, stop light switch, and turn signals over the pedal box. The pedal box has two oval openings that I pulled the stop, horn, and turn wires through and connected the bullet connectors with matching wiring colors. Ignition switch wires were pulled completely over the pedal box to get to the switch.

Questions:
1. I currently have three connectors on the ignition switch. There is one unused terminal on the switch labeled "acc". Is this correct?

2. The turn signal switch has two Go and two GY wires for left and right turn indicators. Does it matter how I connect front vs rear wiring into the switch? I can't tell a difference in front vs rear on the switch, but I can differentiate in the harness.

3. Does anyone see any other corrections I need to make with my harness routing?

Sent from my LGLS990