Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (4 Viewers)

[CycloSteve]

Dave sourced these goodies, and they were under $20 ea. Clutch master holes drilled today (nerve racking to ensure everything was level), pedals going in on Friday, motor and trans out on Saturday...more parts in the mail, and then the fun really begins.

 

[Rock40]

I was recently out of electricity at the house for a solid three days after a large storm. No power makes working on the FJ difficult to say the least. Just picked this up, Miller Trailblazer 302, no more power problems

 

[dirtyboots]

 

[Rock40]

Lol, that's why I sourced up a used unit with only 10 hours on it, WAY below retail

 

[CycloSteve]

To those who have the later models 95-97, how far up did the upper shifter boot fit into the "U" recess at the front (2nd picture)? In my rig it looks like it should snug-up completely against that mount/SRS module, and act as a guide for drilling the five mount holes which link to the lower figure 8 bracket (and help as a guide to how much material to remove for the lower boots on the shifters themselves).

Now that both the trans and motor are out, I can get under there and will be doing a bit of grinding and cutting soon...just want to measure twice, cut once. Any pictures of a factory 5 speed setup for would be exceptionally helpful, measurements to the captive nuts would be even better.

Here is the assembly set in place in mine. There is no wiggle room at the front whatsoever.

This is the figure 8 which will be below the sheetmetal, with the captive nuts for the boots.

 

[tweeek]

Factory setup from a 93 hdj81. Let me know exactly what measurements you are looking for.

 

[CycloSteve]

Perfect picture, Tweek. The measurement from the center of the lowest captive nut/bolt to each of the studs on the lower bracket, and distance from the nut/bolt to the lower bracket will help triangulate the lower section. With the upper, a measurement from the bracket to the hole. It looks like I thought it would, with the holes in the floor slightly larger than the 8 bracket itself. I will likely do the same, so that there is a little wiggle-room for final fitment, and the bracket provides is a smooth and even seal to the boots on the shifters.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Sorry Rock, I did not help at all with the wiring yet. I was down with pneumonia pretty badly, but I am coming back to life, so I should be able to help soon.
cheers,
great work,
Jan

 

[Rock40]

Sorry Rock, I did not help at all with the wiring yet. I was down with pneumonia pretty badly, but I am coming back to life, so I should be able to help soon.
cheers,
great work,
Jan

No worries, I figured something must have come up. I hope you're felling better now. I think I have the wiring harness/splicing figured out enough at this point to get it started and verify I have the oil pressure and water temp hooked up correctly.

I let you know if I need some guidance (probably will) in the future.

 

[Rock40]

Started the exhaust today.... Obviously taking a detour from the factory Toyota stuff here. This is a 3" (aluminized, universal) kit hiding under the FJ40. I debated going all stainless but the cost was way too much. I've used these kits before and they are good for 10+ years easy. Plus, I have enough tubing to make two exhaust systems.

I used a standard 3" exhaust collect and gaskets to mate the tubing to the turbo outlet. The holes are VERY close and I opened them up just slightly to 7/16" so the collector would fit on the outlet.

I'm going to run the 3" exhaust inside the frame rail instead of following the factory routing. I'm doing this for several reasons. A: I don't like the fact that the stock exhaust crosses behind the front tire and is constantly being sprayed with water and road grime. B: Tucking everything inside the frame will keep all the exhaust above the frame and out of harms way. C: I won't have to route the slider attachments around any of the exhaust components. Floor heat may be more of an issue, I plan on adding some shielding in spots.

Here's the collector tacked together

Looking in from the front tire. The 3" is tight between the frame and transmission but it will fit if you take the time to get it just right

 

[Rock40]

I used a "turbo" flex joint which is rated for very high temps. It's stainless steel, 4" long and I placed it as close to the turbo outlet as possible. Disregard the plastic zip tie, it's in mock-up mode.

The muffler is in also. This is a Dynomax unit with an offset inlet/outlet and I managed (after a lot of screwing around) to get it in place while keeping it tucked above the frame. I'm using the factory heat shielding also.

Last pic shows the clearance of the turbo down pipe

 

[tweeek]

Awesome work! Where did you source all your exhaust parts and how are you protecting the welds from rust? Just some high temp paint?

 

[Rock40]

Awesome work! Where did you source all your exhaust parts and how are you protecting the welds from rust? Just some high temp paint?

Thanks Tweeek
All the exhaust parts came from Summit Racing. They have the best prices and free shipping (3" exhaust kit was oversize so shipping was $8) Summit has a good online site and great customer service too. If you want P/N's I can provide those too.

I may paint the exhaust, not sure though. The welds are actually thicker than the surrounding metal but they will get surface rust pretty quick. I built an exhaust system for my 84' mini truck using these components and I didn't paint anything. Roughly 11 years later, the Flowmaster muffler was totally rusted out but the exhaust pipes and welds were just fine. If I paint it, I'll probably use the same stuff that went on the exhaust manifold.

 

[Rock40]

Finally feel like I made some decent progress on the exhaust today. After knocking myself nearly senseless when the muffler fell on my head yesterday, the whole exhaust in place for now. I've run it just past the rear axle and I'm going to wait to finish the rest until I get my rear Cruisin' Offroad bumper in place.

I couple of things. I made my own hangers using parts ordered from Summit Racing and some 1" angle iron. I've always like the rubber isolators that Toyota used and these are very similar. They allow you to put some tension into the works to keep the exhaust from banging around. Everything is tacked in place currently.

I also used some stainless clamps to help with the assembly/disassembly process. As it sits currently, I can unbolt the entire exhaust system in pieces. This was especially helpful with routing the exhaust over the rear crossmember. They make both butt and "slip fit" clamps and they are torqued to 40-50ft/lbs, they shouldn't leak.

This pic shows the rear of the muffler and the exhaust passing over the rear crossmember, there's not a lot of wiggle room here...

Up and over the dirty old rear crossmember, I will probably be picking crap out of my eyes for weeks after this

And dumped behind the rear axle, just temporary for now

 

[Rock40]

In a fit of productivity, I also modified the stock charcoal canister bracket to accept a mount for the Racor fuel filter and a coolant filter. This was actually quite simple and only involved welding two studs, making the plate and welding the plate to the stock bracket. Everything is stainless of course It's not fully welded or painted yet but you get the idea, the stock bracket worked very well as it's gusseted and quite stiff when bolted in place. The coolant filter was left over from when I owned an M35A2 (duece and a half) but I never got around to installing it until now. I'll repaint it so it won't be olive drab

 

[Rock40]

Last pic

 

[Rock40]

Tomorrow I'll un-install all the exhaust pieces, weld them up fully and then put them back in place.

 

[CycloSteve]

A few goodies arrived today for my project.

Stant Diesel Fuel Cap #10819D for a late-1980's Toyota Pickup, made in the USA plus looks and fits like OEM.

VDO "Vison Black" EGT and Boost to mount in my pillar pod. Likely will install and post that up this weekend. These definitely match the Toyota gauges quite well. Same ones I am using in the 45.

 

[Rock40]

Steve, what pillar pod are you using? I'd like to see that if possible.

 

[CycloSteve]

Autometer 20110 pod, highly modified with a saw and heat gun. Here is the thread Dual Gauge Pod - Install

Did a bit of work on fitting the gauges tonight, and one coat grey paint drying. Reusing the TRD boost line, and light circuit. Will finish running the EGT wire to the engine bay over the weekend.