Marfield Tack - Still in vogue??? (1 Viewer)

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Lagos, Portugal
Well things are plodding along with the tweaks and fixes. Always uncover something else, and my "want" list is fast overtaking my "need" list......

Finally have the time to go for the knuckle rebuild this weekend and replace the wheel bearings. Hopefully these are the last fixes to stop it driving like a drunk cow. All threads reviewed, all parts in place and all tools ready to go (I think.....).

Last bit of research picked up the fact that the inner axle clip is a pig to put back on, if it doesn't break that is. And I don't have a spare collection of clips. This lead to the Martack option. Question - is this still used, as some of the posts refer to "what people used to do".
Common measurements refer to the Tack to be placed at 1 1/2" from the end of the shaft. Just for clarification I guess this is the outer edge of the tack weld, and not the center, so that there is 1 1/2" of splines free?

So I call on the vast wealth of knowledge and experience of my fellow mudders. Is this the way to go or not, and are there any other options without any additional parts?
Cheers.
 
I decided against the Martack when I did my axle service. Using a zip tie makes installing the cir clip pretty easy. I'm not planning on wheeling my 40 hard enough to break anything in the front axle either though.
 
I've done it on my axles and spare axles. It sure makes servicing the front axle easier. Three little tack welds once around the shaft and never having to mess with that clip again? Totally worth it to me. The easiest way to measure (if you are not using a brand new axle) is to see where the side gears are rubbing on the splines. Go just beyond that and place your welds. The whole idea is to not let the axle slide too far into the diff. The first time I did it I used the measurements given here on Mud. My axle wouldn't go in far enough, and the birf would bind in the knuckle. I ground it out using a dremel, placed the weld beyond the worn area of the splines, and everything worked perfectly. Like I said, it is a pretty easy work around for those PITA circlips.

:cheers:
 
So, 50/50 split so far.
Main reason I thought of it was not planning ahead and getting any clips in case they break when slamming of the birf.
If they stay in one piece then cable tie sounds like a simple solution.
Planning on reusing the old shafts so will keep an eye out for the wear marks. Simple. So if clip shatters into little pieces then 3 little tack welds.
Saturday morning jod so will be done when you boys on the other side of the pond are still in bed.
 
Also recommend using the PVC pipe method of removing the birf from the inner axle shaft.
 
Also recommend using the PVC pipe method of removing the birf from the inner axle shaft.

Schedule 40 steel pipe will last a lot longer...
 
So, 50/50 split so far.
Main reason I thought of it was not planning ahead and getting any clips in case they break when slamming of the birf.
If they stay in one piece then cable tie sounds like a simple solution.
Planning on reusing the old shafts so will keep an eye out for the wear marks. Simple. So if clip shatters into little pieces then 3 little tack welds.
Saturday morning jod so will be done when you boys on the other side of the pond are still in bed.

My experience has been that every time you separate the Birfield from the inner shaft, the cir-clip gets destroyed.
It's not an expensive part.

I have Longfield 30 spline birfields/inners in my FJ40 and it has the circlips, but next time I do an axle service on my FJ40 (which will be a while) I was thinking about using the TIG welder to put a martack on the inner.
 
Tigerstripe - forgot to order any and as parts here take a while to arrive thinking tack weld is the best choice. And Blue.... bit low on Sched 40, but have some nice heavy wall PVC water pipe that will take a bit of punishment.
early start tomorrow. Will let you know how it goes or cry for help........
 
Why are you guys taking the birfield off of the axle shaft? I never do unless the birfield is broken.

If you got soup, you gotta clean it, otherwise leave it alone or pack it
 
You'll never get all the old grease out unless you separate. It only takes 10 additional minutes on a day long job so why not do it?
 
if you inject the new moly with a needle around the balls, it pushes the old grease out

to the original question: yes, when the 60 series birfs went into my 40 last year, they were martacked
 

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