Broken Extractor on Rear Shock Bolt (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Threads
144
Messages
1,111
Location
Calgary, AB
Yeah I know, should have read previous threads about broken rear shock bolts beforehand.

I managed to break off the extractor I was using in the broken rear shock bolt and now I can't get it drilled out. Basically my bits are just polishing what's left of the extractor and not removing any material.

What's the best way to get this thing drilled out? I am at wit's end and very close to strapping the shock on and taking it to a shop.
 
thats tough.

for others, what i do if the bolt doesn't come out with reasonable force is to cut the eye on the shock so I can remove the shock. Cut the rubber bushings off so now it's just the bolt and the stud it's threaded into. Then hit it with heat and back out the bolt.

In your case you might start that process and then try and fracture the extractor with a chisel and get it out in pieces or maybe get it real hot and use a drift and hammer to turn out the bolt by driving whats left from the side.
 
I have used cheap diamond bits from HF with decent results, but it works much faster with quality burrs from McMaster Carr or similar supplier
 
Yeah I know, should have read previous threads about broken rear shock bolts beforehand.

I managed to break off the extractor I was using in the broken rear shock bolt and now I can't get it drilled out. Basically my bits are just polishing what's left of the extractor and not removing any material.

What's the best way to get this thing drilled out? I am at wit's end and very close to strapping the shock on and taking it to a shop.
Use a dremel type tool and appropriate carbide ball burr to grind the extractor out.
I assume that this is a lower mount bolt?
 
thats tough.

for others, what i do if the bolt doesn't come out with reasonable force is to cut the eye on the shock so I can remove the shock. Cut the rubber bushings off so now it's just the bolt and the stud it's threaded into. Then hit it with heat and back out the bolt.

In your case you might start that process and then try and fracture the extractor with a chisel and get it out in pieces or maybe get it real hot and use a drift and hammer to turn out the bolt by driving whats left from the side.

Funny enough, I was able to get the bolt out all the way and slip the old shock off no problem.

It was when I was installing the new shock that the bolt wasn't being friendly. I was backing it out so I would be able to tap the hole when it let go.

What's the most frustrating is that I had that bolt out all the way and didn't tap it in the first place. Would have made this whole situation not happen.
 
Use a dremel type tool and appropriate carbide ball burr to grind the extractor out.
I assume that this is a lower mount bolt?

s***, now that's a good idea. I may end up doing that.

Yes, it's the lower shock mount bolt.

I even broke both the sway bar bracket bolts on the same side. Welder to the rescue.
 
s***, now that's a good idea. I may end up doing that.

Yes, it's the lower shock mount bolt.

I even broke both the sway bar bracket bolts on the same side. Welder to the rescue.
Once the extractor is out you can drill the bolt until you can vaguely see the threads. At this point you should be able to use a starter tap to slowly, thread by thread, bust the remainder of that bolt out.
 
Extractors are for bolts that broke off during tightening; not for rusted bolts that broke off trying to loosen them. For rusted bolts, you center punch them and drill them through with increasingly larger drill bits until you can see the threads. Then add penetrating oil and back them out with a chisel or left hand drill bit.

Your options are limited once you have broken off an extractor. You can sometimes weld a nut on to the remains and turn it out. If you can't weld, use a diamond or tungsten carbide burr in a pneumatic die grinder (or a Dremel if you have a lot of time on your hands) to cut the extractor out before you resume drilling.
 
Weld a new bolt head to it, the heat from the weldong should be enough for it to back out pretty easy with a socket.
 
I believe that the dremel and the carbide burr are your best bet .. ( been there done that ) next time Kroil or PB blaster couple of days before fight.
 
Extractors are for bolts that broke off during tightening; not for rusted bolts that broke off trying to loosen them. For rusted bolts, you center punch them and drill them through with increasingly larger drill bits until you can see the threads. Then add penetrating oil and back them out with a chisel or left hand drill bit.

x2 but rather than center punch I use this tool. www.quikcenter.com
Has saved me tons of times with rusted, broken bolts. It makes the pilot hole in the center of the bolt and keeps it straight through. Once that's done you drill up to the tap size and then chase with a thread restoring tap. Works great and significantly reduces risk of damaging your parts.
 
X2 weld a nut on and back it out. Works every time
 
Thanks for all the input! Will be tackling this soon. Don't have a lot of experience with drilling out old bolts but everybody's gotta start somewhere.
 
Maybe cut it off the mount and have a new threaded "pipe" welded on that will accept a new bolt?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom