KDSS frozen...no lift install? (1 Viewer)

[dscully]

Morning,

Have my 200 in the shop now for a lift install. Just got the call this morning that one of the KDSS valves is frozen and that they can't get it unstuck (despite numerous attempts with a weekend of penetrant and a breaker bar). He's calling around to get quotes for the part replacement, but from what I've seen on here it's a huge/expensive job and it's a 2008, so not under warranty.

I'm going to see what he says when he gets back to me with parts/labor cost to replace it, but if it's outrageous, would I be heading down the wrong path by installing the lift without doing the KDSS leveling on one end?

This is what I get for living in the Northeast I suppose.

Thanks for any thoughts/advice.

 

[Willy beamin]

I would think that you'll end up with a lean to one side if the install and KDSS don't work together. I've read about one guy (on here) that lives in Australia and he ordered or purchased his rig without KDSS due to the suspension system he wanted to run - the KDSS was going to limit his end plans. You may want to explore the option of running without the KDSS "IF" the cost is astronomical. Just my take on it. Or forget the suspension all together - thats a rotten deal - sorry to hear that

Call Christo @sleeoffroad in Colorado and ask him what his associate in Australia does with rigs without the KDSS setup.
good luck

 

[kreiten]

Based on my knowledge of the system is the front end will be under to much pressure to even remove the coilovers if you don't open the KDSS valves first. I'm sure Christo or someone can correct me if I"m wrong, but the main reason to open them is not so you don't have a lean afterward, it's so you can actually get the coilovers out! You can however put the rear springs in wtihout opening the KDSS just my 2 cents...

 

[TexAZ]

It would be a lot of extra labor, but you could use a floor jack to push up on the sway bar / or KDSS arm enough to relieve the tension on the linkage and remove it, essentially taking the system out of the loop. install the lift, and use the jack on the sway bar to line everything up again.
call Christo and verify this will work prior to disconnecting anything.

 

[cwwfj60]

You need to have this work done by a reputable/knowledgeable shop. If they don't understand how to operate the KDSS system then it's going to be a pain for both of you. Have they ever worked on a 200 before?

 

[Willy beamin]

print this out and take it to whom ever you end up doing business with on your LC - Merry Christmas

 

[dscully]

Yep, they have worked on 200s before, though not sure about KDSS specifically. I know the system is complex and is charged at a very high psi with special equipment. Trying really hard not to have to replace it, he's giving it a few more tries/days with a penetrator and a breaker bar before going the replacement route. If it does come to that ill make sure he can handle the install or will get it to someone who can.

Thanks willy, i gave him the ironman version of that doc when i dropped the truck off, he knows what to do and how, one of the valves is rusted shut though preventing him from loosening it the required three turns.

Will let you all know how it turns out.

 

[Markuson]

After seeing 1 year old replacement valves that were completely rusted...I was nervous about what I would find under my 2008. When I looked today, they were shiny-new and completely rust-free. So... Am I just lucky?

But my real question is...what the heck?? Why are some of your valves so completely DESTROYED...and some so quickly after replacement? Are you driving salted streets?

Next question... Why the HECK would Toyota use a material so prone to rust on such an expensive, critical part?

 

[dscully]

Just a quick update: Shop has tried pretty much everything and no dice. Penetrants, heat, etc. They have broken several Snap On tools. All trying to get the valve open.

So now faced with the decision of either ponying up for the replacement of the valve (part alone is between 900-1200 depending on source from what I've seen, no idea on labor/hours required) or just returning the lift/UCAs, selling the ARB, and living with the stock truck (w/ the 275/70r18s of course).

If I go the replacement route, I'll let you all know detailed costs/parts breakdown. Figure it would be good info since it seems I'm not the only one with the frozen valve issue.

 

[Willy beamin]

did you give Christo @sleeoffroad a shout to get his take on the matter and options / cost?
only thing I wouldn't know about is if there is a replacement swaybar arm if you went the KDSS-less route - I at least check it out - you owe that much to your mods just sitting there in their little boxes.

 

[tirewater]

The 200 has been out for better part of a decade now, try to source a used valve from a wrecking yard. Or cross reference the valve with other Toyota vehicles that use KDSS (lx470, 4runner, gx460, etc...)

The relatively small amount of 200 series sold in the US is going to start rearing it's head as existing vehicles need replacement parts. The 80 & 100 series have a large pool of in-op vehicles to pull parts from. Hopefully, with globalization, used 200 parts can be brought from abroad.

 

[dscully]

Thanks for the responses, going to look around for a replacement valve. Anybody have the Toyota part number off hand? 4800660023 sound correct? So, #1 in this pic? (Hard to visualize without the truck/part in front of me)

 

[INTP]

Thanks for the responses, going to look around for a replacement valve. Anybody have the Toyota part number off hand? 4800660023 sound correct? So, #1 in this pic? (Hard to visualize without the truck/part in front of me)

Looks like something from the inside of a U-Boat.

 

[TonyP]

Cheapest I could find was $870. That's absurd. I'm willing to bet with some penetrating oil, some heat it and a bottle of scotch it could be loosened up eventually. In my 20 years of wrenching on vehicles, those almost always work... or break the bolt/item in question, either one.

 

[NLScooby]

Sometimes some light "tapping" with an air chisel works. I had to do this on the rear rotors of a diesel truck that I own. It essentially vibrates the area - and lets some penetrating oil....um..... penetrate. At least that's my theory. Obviously you want to mind the amount of pressure you apply - but since in this case you are chiseling "up", that should be easy to control. My adjustment screws look fairly well rusted in place. I will try this trick within the next day (if needed - I haven't actually tried to loosed them) and report back.

 

[gaijin]

Cheapest I could find was $870. That's absurd. I'm willing to bet with some penetrating oil, some heat it and a bottle of scotch it could be loosened up eventually. In my 20 years of wrenching on vehicles, those almost always work... or break the bolt/item in question, either one.

When I had a temporary membership to TIS (Toyota's online Service Manuals for the LC200) I remember looking at the details of maintenance on the KDSS system. The system is a VERY high pressure (100's of psi?) system that requires special equipment to charge/discharge. This special equipment is apparently not available at every Toyota dealership.

My point is, even if you manage to source a replacement KDSS valve body, how are you going to deal with the discharge/recharge of the KDSS system? Sounds to me like it is a dealer only procedure and is probably very expensive.

HTH

 

[dscully]

Pulling the plug on the mods unfortunately, just not worth the expense and hassle of replacing the KDSS valve and very recent news that I'll be moving abroad in the spring means it's just not worth it to do all those modifications just to sell it.

Still in the return window for most of the parts, but have a brand new ARB for a 2008-2011 200 that I'll be selling, not worth the hassle of returning it with the cost of freight. Will post the ad in the appropriate place.

Was hoping for a better outcome. Check those valves and grease em like many here have said!

 

[KY Longhunter]

Updates? I'm having same issue with KDSS valve.

 

[dscully]

Nothing new. I've got the truck back from the shop and am going to try one more time this weekend to get that damn thing loose. One of the two bolts is free, but obviously need both unscrewed to open the circuit.

Have an impact driver with a 5mm allen/hex socket, some PB Blaster and my trusty propane torch (obviously not combining the Blaster and torch). Will see what I can do...will update with any progress.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I'm willing to bet with some penetrating oil, some heat it and a bottle of scotch it could be loosened up eventually. In my 20 years of wrenching on vehicles, those almost always work... or break the bolt/item in question, either one.

Whether this works or not depends directly in which order they are applied. If in the reverse order, I can see breakage happening!