I bought a 1966 (6/65) FJ40L 'parts car' to restore (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 1, 2007
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13
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116
Location
West TN
Hello Mudders, Gil here. I own an FJ80, but am new to the FJ40. So, I surprised my wife last month by picking up this FJ40 to fix up. PO claims is was running 4 to 5 years ago, tags on the back say 1983, possibly sitting for 30+ years of it's 50 year life! It was sitting under a tree, and pretty much a Mariott for mice, with the luxury suite the bell housing of the flywheel packed with pounds of carpet fiber.
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PO rolled it out into the field for buyer viewing, and bake out the critters in the sunlight.

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Non runner, pushed onto the trailer with bobcat loader (bucket at right side)

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Bumper now has a nice twist from bobcat push

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FJ40L - built in '65, titled '66. Should be a FST - factory soft top, corrugated top was added later. I checked the # on the frame and it matches. Built in June 1965, according to SOR table.

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F135 engine #F211603. See the nut at left of photo - I pulled tons of these out of the cab
 
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Block # = May 20, 1965 - - would that be the 59th one they cast that day?

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Factory air intake must have been removed for plow hydralics at left
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Aisan SD-40 single carb. #5F6 = June 6, 1965. Is it OK to have the hole uncovered on the pipe on top of the head cover?

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What is the resistor on the firewall for? Is this for the coil? I didn't find this resistor on wiring diagrams. I could use a clean wiring diagram with readable wire color. Send it if you have it, thanks, Missing is the 4WD link? in this photo. I found it in the cab behind the seats.

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Original alternator? not sure. It is missing wires/connector that is out of the photo. Add on for hydraulic pump for plow
 
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F135 engine - starter bolts on head cover. Pulled plugs and put Marvel in to soak.

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Original coral seats?

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Knob pull is to raise plow blade. 2 extra amp meters - one behind hand brake and one taped onto it with elec. tape

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Pass. seat looks good except it was full of nut shells. Drive side seat back chewed up.
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After market ignition, Keys say IH on them. Lotsa funky wiring do to the lights being on the plow. Wiring on this is gonna be fun.

The good it that most of it is there so I can learn. I know I need tons of stuff to resto this. My plan is go get it to start first.
 
Nice early 40! Fst would have had a tailgate, not barn doors. Looks pretty darn complete down to the hubcaps!
 
Good news the engine turns over after cleaning up the flywheel housing!
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Tool I made to get it to turn over. 3/4 bolt with a 2.5" 1/4 dia. steel pin thru it. This was put into the crank pulley and turned at the end of a 1-1/8" box wrench. Sloooowly I got it to turn. I had put an alum pipe on the end to get leverage. That is when I heard the weird carpet tearing sound. Pulled the flywheel cover and nuts!!
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Mice living quarters.

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No wonder it did not turn over easy. Carpet fiber was packed in the flywheel by mice/chipmunks. PO had 2 layers of carpet in the cab. These when wet helped to accelerate the rust in the floor. I filled up a garbage can full of debris from the cab.

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4WD shift link? What is the correct term?

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Lichens from living under a tree.

I am working up to a first start. So far... New starter, battery. It turns over via ignition now....yippee!. I changed the oil, drained the fuel. Next: look at the carb. Right now the top valve is stuck open. How to get this free? I will replace the inline fuel filter, fill 10 gal. of gas with stablizer and look at carb. What should I look for in the carb? I will blow the fuel out of all line too. Ideas for gas disposal? Tank looked clean, as I opened sender, those screw were fun to remove. Having fun slowly working on this.
 
Thanks Whitey45. A lot of it is there just rotten. Barn doors probably came with corrugated top, and driver/pass. doors
 
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I love old plow 40's. They were a bear to plow with, the three speed nice.....steering not so much. I think it was mandatory to run the plow control through the dash. :idea:
 
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Why do you think its a fst? The L denotes left hand drive. I dont see any evidence of it being a fst?
 
Why do you think its a fst? The L denotes left hand drive. I dont see any evidence of it being a fst?
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Would these be the mounting holes for the soft top frame? (View is of inside rear tub, drivers side) Identical set on pass. side. What is the 3rd hole on the wall? reflector? Or are these holes for the flip up rear jump seats? dunno. (These are rear seat mounting holes, right.)

I was wondering why I didn't have the windsheild bumper/tiedowns on the hood. ...sort of jealous.
 
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View attachment 1165832 I love old plow 40's. They were a bear to plow with, the three speed nice.....steering not so much. I think it was mandatory to run the plow control through the dash. :idea:

What make is your plow? I think mine is a Meyer. I will need to get a set of skid glides under the blade so I don't tear up asphalt, when I get it running. Any ideas for a source for plow spares of this vintage?
 
The V that would make it a hard top was missing on most model numbers in the early years. My 68 doesn't have the V. Wasn't changed to a hard top, bought it in 74 and it was all original at the time. Of my two earlier hard tops models only one has the V.
 
They all had mounting holes in the tub for the fst bow brackets, no worries, its a kick ass early corrugated top 40! Last year for alot of early features! Enjoy!
 
Nice find! How about a video of its first start up??? Those are always so cool! :smokin:
 
Nice truck! It must be fun to get it running after 30 years of sitting! Lots of challenges but it looks quite complete so a good base to start with. Here you have the wiring diagram you asked for by PM.

Edit: this is from my 62 owners manual, I think 65 is kind of comparable.
 

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  • 62 fj40 wiring Hi resolution.pdf
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Yes, it is interesting to think that some of the screws and bolts have not been turned since 1965. The wire diagram will help me sort through the extra plow lights and 2 amp meters, ignition the PO added. It is a real snaggle of wires. Thanks for posting the high res can!
 
Manifold question...We when I bolt the manifold to the head, I am getting a gap at the bottom. The tops of the manifolds touch but I am getting a 3-4 mm gap at the bottom. There are no gaps from the exhaust man. being bolted to the intake man., that is why I am confused. Are there any tricks for the sequence of attaching the manifolds? Anybody else have this issue? Any suggestions?
 
Just when you think most of these olds rigs have been destroyed or snatched up, someone finds another.... Fantastic!
Nice nice find, you will have a blast.
 
Manifold is now on correctly - - no gaps at top or bottom. Issue was a deformed collar that was pinching. I was missing one collar also, so I fabbed one up.
 
I am getting fuel to the carb. At rest, the fuel level matches the line on the SD-40 window, when I crank the fuel level goes approx. 3/8" to 1/2" above the line on the window. Is this normal? It still won't start. I hear some dripping inside too.
 

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