[spdwaver1]

I just got finished painting the Ht on my 40. Everything looked good while I was painting it, then this morning I had a whole lot of orange peel. How does this happen overnight?

I used Rustoleum Regal Red over primer, which was wet-sanded and smooth upon application.


As the title goes, now what? I have wet-sanded using 600-grit to remove many of the spots, but is there by chance another way?

Thanks in advance.

[spdwaver1]

Let me add that the paint does seem to still be soft - now 20 hours later. The paint seems to be reacting to changes in temperature: whereas one area did not have orange peel, now it does since the ambient temperature is rising. Does tempurature have anything/everything to do with it?

[Texx]

That is beyond orane peel, it is almost a wrinkling or folding. Did you use a catalyzed paint? Are you using acrylic enamel? Is everything the same brand, from the same supplier? Temp will normally not cause the problem you have, although the reducer should be keyed to the temp when spraying. No way it should be soft if you're using a hardener (catalyst). Once it's on there, you're toasted. Do not wet sand until the paint is hard. How great is the temp swing?

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by Texx

That is beyond orane peel, it is almost a wrinkling or folding. Did you use a catalyzed paint? Are you using acrylic enamel? Is everything the same brand, from the same supplier? Temp will normally not cause the problem you have, although the reducer should be keyed to the temp when spraying. No way it should be soft if you're using a hardener (catalyst). Once it's on there, you're toasted. Do not wet sand until the paint is hard. How great is the temp swing?

I apologize for not being clear in the beginning: I am using spray cans.

I figured it was beyond orange peel, but did not know what else to call it.

I used the same color, brand, etc. all the way through the job.

The temperature was 78*F when painting and is now 98*F in the shade, where it sits currently.

[Joe_E]

I've had that happen on a few small projects. Turns out I was laying on too thick of a coat and piling more on.

From Sherwin Automotive-

Paint film having an uneven texture that resembles the skin of an orange.
CAUSE

1. Under reduction and/or air pressure too low.
2. Thinner/reducer evaporates too fast for spray conditions.
3. Excessive film thickness or piling on of heavy wet coats.
4. Improper spray gun set-up.
5. Improper painting technique.

REPAIR

1. Compound or polish to reduce surface texture.
2. Or, sand smooth with 1200 or finer grit sandpaper, compound and polish to restore gloss.
3. Or, sand smooth and refinish.

PREVENTION

1. Use proper reduction ratio and spray at recommended air pressure.
2. Select recommended thinner/reducer based on temperature, humidity, air movement, and size of repair.
3. Avoid heavy coats and excessive film thickness.
4. Use recommended spray gun, fluid tip and air cap for the material being sprayed. Always adjust the gun for best atomization and balanced spray pattern before paint application.
5. During paint application, hold the gun perpendicular and parallel to the surface. Adjust speed of pass, pattern overlap, and distance from the panel to achieve the desired appearance

[spdwaver1]

I did apply some thick coats - apparently too thick. The paint was going on so well, and without running that I thought it was OK to lay it on a bit thick. I painted the rest of the truck about a year ago, but had to use thinner coats since I was using a different paint brand.

I am not going to sand down and apply new coats since I used the last of the paint already.


I guess I have a lot of sanding to do to get it looking at least halfway decent.

Thanks for all the replies.

[antFJ]

same thing when painting my axles.. i didn't wait long enough between coats and layed it on too thick... that is going to take a while to dry.. my axles didn't get "hard" until days later.. just let it sit for a while so you don't mess it up more like I did!

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by antFJ

same thing when painting my axles.. i didn't wait long enough between coats and layed it on too thick... that is going to take a while to dry.. my axles didn't get "hard" until days later.. just let it sit for a while so you don't mess it up more like I did!

Yeah, I plan on waiting this one out until it hardens enough to work with to avoid peeling the paint.

It is a bummer having to drive around with this texture standing out on a new paint job. Says something about the driver.

[fireflyr]

I wouldn't beat youself up over it too much. Rustoleum seems to take forever to get hard. You may be able to wait a couple weeks and start the sanding, buffing cycle and get it fairly smooth. Just walk away from it for awhile and get a new perspective. I spent $250 on a gallon and a half of NASON's dune beige 416 and still am dealing with orange peal and runs.
I did find that a scratch coat (thin coat), wait 20 miutes and then 2 thin coats 20 minutes apart give a pretty good finish. Good luck.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by fireflyr

I wouldn't beat youself up over it too much. Rustoleum seems to take forever to get hard. You may be able to wait a couple weeks and start the sanding, buffing cycle and get it fairly smooth. Just walk away from it for awhile and get a new perspective. I spent $250 on a gallon and a half of NASON's dune beige 416 and still am dealing with orange peal and runs.
I did find that a scratch coat (thin coat), wait 20 miutes and then 2 thin coats 20 minutes apart give a pretty good finish. Good luck.

Yeah, as I stated earlier, the paint seemed to go on really well; now runs, no drips: I thought I could go ahead and lay on a few thick coats. As far as waiting 2 minutes, I waited a minimum of 5 minutes between coats and all seemed well.

Sorry to hear that you spent that much just to have problems - I spent ~$86.00 on the primer, red and white paints, and I still have two cans of primer and one can of white (which was used on the top).

As my sig line states, this one serves as a bad example.

[spdwaver1]

Here are the full pics of the rest of the rig the day following the job.

[okie]

Originally Posted by spdwaver1

Let me add that the paint does seem to still be soft - now 20 hours later. The paint seems to be reacting to changes in temperature: whereas one area did not have orange peel, now it does since the ambient temperature is rising. Does tempurature have anything/everything to do with it?

that happened to me before. You can do one of two things

1- after you spray primer, within a few miniutes after you spray the primer you spray your top coat and only if it is the same type and brand of paint that is meant to be used together. you want to make sure you spray the color on top of the primer before the primer starts to dry.

2- you spray your primer and wait a week ( or what ever time it tells you on the can) for full cure of the primer, then wet sand and paint.

you sprayed the top coat between these two stages and that caused a reaction. I did this once buy spraying my valve covers on my v8 and then the next day went out to the garage and sanded and sprayed my clear, i almost cried, it started to crinkle up like nothing i'd seen before, way worse than what you've got, and i finally read the can and i realized what happened . A big on me.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by okie

that happened to me before. You can do one of two things

1- after you spray primer, within a few miniutes after you spray the primer you spray your top coat and only if it is the same type and brand of paint that is meant to be used together. you want to make sure you spray the color on top of the primer before the primer starts to dry.

2- you spray your primer and wait a week ( or what ever time it tells you on the can) for full cure of the primer, then wet sand and paint.

you sprayed the top coat between these two stages and that caused a reaction. I did this once buy spraying my valve covers on my v8 and then the next day went out to the garage and sanded and sprayed my clear, i almost cried, it started to crinkle up like nothing i'd seen before, way worse than what you've got, and i finally read the can and i realized what happened . A big on me.

I am sorry to hear about your situation: I was just about to cry as well, because after I applied all that paint and was satisfied that I got the right amount of coats - there it was, all pruned up. Not just pruned up in a couple spots, because within two days the WHOLE THING became pruned up; some spots are worse than others. So much for an $85.00 paint job.

If anything else, the price of the job will not change, just the ease by which it is realized. The was not happy either, since she has been telling me to take it to a professional. Right: like they could screw it up better than I could!

[okie]

Originally Posted by spdwaver1

I am sorry to hear about your situation: I was just about to cry as well, because after I applied all that paint and was satisfied that I got the right amount of coats - there it was, all pruned up. Not just pruned up in a couple spots, because within two days the WHOLE THING became pruned up; some spots are worse than others. So much for an $85.00 paint job.

If anything else, the price of the job will not change, just the ease by which it is realized. The was not happy either, since she has been telling me to take it to a professional. Right: like they could screw it up better than I could!

To be honest, yours kinda looks like a crinkle coat in the pcitures. I mean it at least looks uniform. Just tell your wife for the time being that that was the intended look of the paint job you expected. Ask her if she doesn't like it than you'll redo it. At least it makes you look professional. lol

good luck i really do feel for anyone who has to do all that sanding all over again. sanding sucks. good luck with your project.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by okie

To be honest, yours kinda looks like a crinkle coat in the pcitures. I mean it at least looks uniform. Just tell your wife for the time being that that was the intended look of the paint job you expected. Ask her if she doesn't like it than you'll redo it. At least it makes you look professional. lol

good luck i really do feel for anyone who has to do all that sanding all over again. sanding sucks. good luck with your project.

Too late - is well aware of the blunder.

I began sanding on it last night (it is almost dry!). I will see if it begins to wrinkle up again once the sun has warmed up the paint again. I did a lot of wet sanding with 400-grit and I am seeing some shine in a few spots. I will get it shining in about a week, I imagine.

[apeterson]

you need finer sand paper than 400..... I wet sanded mind out to 2000 and then buffed it.... with 2 buffing compounds... it will always look scratched up until you buff it.

good luck... try a few spots and post up what happends

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by apeterson

you need finer sand paper than 400..... I wet sanded mind out to 2000 and then buffed it.... with 2 buffing compounds... it will always look scratched up until you buff it.

good luck... try a few spots and post up what happends

I may not have been clear: I am using the 400-grit to take down the very rough surface, not trying to get a shine; just going for 'even' right now.

I have 1000 and 1500 grit for the pre-polish.

I will take some pictures of the one side that I am, for the most part, satisfied with.

[okie]

Originally Posted by spdwaver1

Too late - is well aware of the blunder.

I began sanding on it last night (it is almost dry!). I will see if it begins to wrinkle up again once the sun has warmed up the paint again. I did a lot of wet sanding with 400-grit and I am seeing some shine in a few spots. I will get it shining in about a week, I imagine.

awsome, good luck with it. are you going to spray it with clear when its done or just leave it one stage? I feel for you , sanding sucks , but post some picks when you have it all shiny

[Xanatost]

I did this on my roll cage as well. Some parts came out perfect but others has that wrinkle look. I'm going to wet sand it smooth and then go over it with a light coat. After that I'm not sure if i want clear coat it or just polish it. What clear coat should I use if i go that way. or should I polish it then clear??

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by okie

awsome, good luck with it. are you going to spray it with clear when its done or just leave it one stage? I feel for you , sanding sucks , but post some picks when you have it all shiny

I am not sure if I will clear coat it - which if I did - would be later down the road.

Instead, I am going to try 5280hawk's approach and roll on the final coats: this way, I know I am applying thin coats and can control, to a certain extent, the outcome. Since it is already red, it will not require many coats to provide coverage, making it possible for me to drive it daily while applying coats.

I will post up the final results.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by Xanatost

I did this on my roll cage as well. Some parts came out perfect but others has that wrinkle look. I'm going to wet sand it smooth and then go over it with a light coat. After that I'm not sure if i want clear coat it or just polish it. What clear coat should I use if i go that way. or should I polish it then clear??

I would not even clear-coat it, but that's just me. I did not have issues with my roll bar; when it gets scratched, I just spray the area and move on.

In a way, that is what I am doing with the rest of the truck: if I scratch it, I can just paint over the area. It is a daily driver, but it is also my trail rig.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by spdwaver1

So much for an $85.00 paint job.

If anything else, the price of the job will not change...

Well, the price of the job did change, adding another $45.00 to the total for paint, mineral spirits, 4" rollers and pans.

[spdwaver1]

I wanted to update all that are interested as to how I am coming along with the paint repair. I did not post pics of the process because, quite frankly, I was not sure how I would fare in choosing this method, but I have made progress in another area.

I have a spare hood which got prepped and sprayed a coat of primer on it to practice the roll-on technique (no need to post pics of primer, right?). I rolled on a few coats, and to my surprise, it is turning out really nice! The only problem that I had is the thickness of the paint on application; if I did not mix in enough mineral spirits, the thickness of the paint would not allow the bubbles resulting from the foam roller to pop and level out, and the bumps would not settle either.

Once I got the thickness figured out, I was able to apply the coats more evenly, and the paint would 'flatten out' better as a result. For those who are interested in attempting the roll-on method of painting, it is nice to not have airborne particles getting all over everything and to not worry about drips that form: you can simply roll over the imperfections while it is still wet - then the bumps will settle.

I followed 5280's method for the most part, but you just have to get a feel for what you are doing: at first, like he said, it does not appear as though progress is being made. But after several coats, it really starts to come along quite well. My thanks goes out to 5280 for posting his experience, which is what led me to do the same (just not to the same extent: mine is a DD).

I will have pics of the hood up soon, followed by the rest of the rig.

[5280Hawk]

Nice man,

Thanks for the props.

I am super excited to see the results!

PM me if you have any specific questions, I don't get back into the paint and Body section as much as I should.

[spdwaver1]

Originally Posted by 5280Hawk

Nice man,

Thanks for the props.

I am super excited to see the results!

PM me if you have any specific questions, I don't get back into the paint and Body section as much as I should.

Thanks for the encouragement. I have been a bit delayed in getting out to the garage to snap a few shots, but I am keeping the project 'incomplete' for the sake of posting up the results in its current state. I want others to see that, with a little patience, this method works out quite nicely.

[spdwaver1]

As promised, here are some updated pics of the progress on the hood and a couple before and after shots of the top.

Enjoy.

The first pic is just after sanding the first two coats with wet 600 grit.. It appears to be rough, but it is actually quite smooth and level; perfect for the next coat.

The second is a view of the center section looking toward the front.

The third is the full view. You may notice that there are dents in the hood (discussed in another thread): I decided not to try to straighten it out since it is much better than what I have now, and I am not tooled up to do the job.

[spdwaver1]

The top picture gives you a good idea of the texture prior to applying a fresh coat.

The second is just after a fresh coat. Shiny!


The third shows just how rough a fresh coat will appear after rolling it on. All of the roughness settles rather quickly, which is due in part to the thickness of the paint. I used an approximate mixture of 1:1 mineral spirits / paint, which seemed like too much thinner, but ended up just right. If I had not thinned it as such, the bubbles would remain: too much thinner and the vertical sections would run. It is a bit tricky to get it just right, but ultimately I just started with 1:1 and added paint to thicken it.

[spdwaver1]

The top pic is a better example of the texture after a fresh coat, all of which levels out nicely.
The bottom pic is also after a fresh coat - it too leveled out pretty well after about a couple minutes.

[spdwaver1]

The top required a lot of sanding to get all of the wrinkled paint down. In fact, it has taken until this time, or from the first post in this thread, to be almost completely dry!

I brought the back corner (top pic) down to primer, then applied another coat of primer to even it out.

The second pic shows what the end result of sanding achieved along with a two-coat application. I have not wet-sanded or polished this portion yet. Much better than it was! I will be applying a few more coats, wet-sanding with 600 between each coat.

[jsaltlick]

Lookin good!!