Acrylic Enamel vs. Urethane ?

[ashooter]

I just talked to the owner of the body shop that is going to paint my 80 as soon as I have time to get it prepped and he suggested using an acrylic enamel instead of the urethane I had originally planned on. His reasoning was that since I drive my truck through brush quite a bit, I could more easily buff out the "trail pin-striping" with the acrylic enamel because there's no clearcoat over it.

Anybody know if this makes sense?

I know NOTHING about auto paint other than what colors I like. I just want the truck to look decent without a whole lot of maintenance. Looking like it gets used is no problem, but I don't want a soft paint that's going to get gouged down to the primer when it gets swiped by a mesquite thorn.

Suggestions?

[webelk6]

I believe the 40 series were painted with acrylic enamel.(Not so glossy). I disagree however, it would be easily buffed. Urethane with clear is much easier to buff. Plus the clear is a protectant for the urethane IMHO. If you scratch enamel BAD, you are talking sanding and repainting that spot.

I backed my 80 series up into some nasty cut bushes and scratched the hell out of it, and it buffed out...

[ashooter]

I did some research last night and the best I can tell is that most newer cars are painted with base coat and clear coat while older cars were painted with acrylic enamel or lacquer. A single stage urethane can be applied with or without clearcoat. POLYurethane is tougher than any of them, but more expensive.

The advantage to base/clear is primarily that it is faster and easier to apply a smooth glassy finish from a production standpoint. Disadvantage is that the clearcoat often fails (which is why I'm painting) and if it's scratched, it often shows up as a white mark, especially if the base coat is a very dark color.

I'm thinking the single stage urethane or maybe a polyurethane is the way to go for a decent looking finish that will last a long time and be reasonably scratch and chip resistent.

Anybody have anything to add?

[DRay]

I did some research last night and the best I can tell is that most newer cars are painted with base coat and clear coat while older cars were painted with acrylic enamel or lacquer. A single stage urethane can be applied with or without clearcoat. POLYurethane is tougher than any of them, but more expensive.

The advantage to base/clear is primarily that it is faster and easier to apply a smooth glassy finish from a production standpoint. Disadvantage is that the clearcoat often fails (which is why I'm painting) and if it's scratched, it often shows up as a white mark, especially if the base coat is a very dark color.

Originally Posted by ashooter

I'm thinking the single stage urethane or maybe a polyurethane is the way to go for a decent looking finish that will last a long time and be reasonably scratch and chip resistent.

Anybody have anything to add?

You are correct that the Urethane is the best way to go with a hardener. Plus it's original! I had a hard time getting anyone local to match the original color on my 78 FJ40. I found TCP Global in CA - Talk to Jimmy Chips 858-909-2150. The guy knows his stuff and The cost wasn't anything more than local. They don't match old colors, they mix it like original. I am thoroughly happy.

[webelk6]

Originally Posted by DRay

I did some research last night and the best I can tell is that most newer cars are painted with base coat and clear coat while older cars were painted with acrylic enamel or lacquer. A single stage urethane can be applied with or without clearcoat. POLYurethane is tougher than any of them, but more expensive.

The advantage to base/clear is primarily that it is faster and easier to apply a smooth glassy finish from a production standpoint. Disadvantage is that the clearcoat often fails (which is why I'm painting) and if it's scratched, it often shows up as a white mark, especially if the base coat is a very dark color.





You are correct that the Urethane is the best way to go with a hardener. Plus it's original! I had a hard time getting anyone local to match the original color on my 78 FJ40. I found TCP Global in CA - Talk to Jimmy Chips 858-909-2150. The guy knows his stuff and The cost wasn't anything more than local. They don't match old colors, they mix it like original. I am thoroughly happy.

I believe most of the fj40 colors are discontinued, hence matching. Which I also have to do.