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#1 |
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In debt to the Shaman
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Enamel vs. Epoxy vs. Urethane - A Paint Primer?
What's the difference? I'm getting close to painting my FJ40. I'm going to do this myself and I know almost nothing about paint and I'm confused. This will be on a trail truck, not a restoration, but I still want it to be nice. I need something easy to apply. No clear coat required. Also, I saw someplace that the primer needs to be compatable with the top coat. What do I need to know?
__________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage. |
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: May 2006
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 365
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Ditto.
I have heard that a lot of people have had good luck with Rustoleum "industrial" enamel as well as Interlux Brightside polyurethane. The biggest question in my mind is not which is easier to apply, but which one is tougher? __________________ '92 FJ80, 3F-E Grrrrrrrrrrrrr, stock center diff lock, 265/75/16 Revos on 16x7 steelies, OME 861/862... dubbed "Old Suzy" by my 3-year old. |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: HI
Posts: 380
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Here's some wiki articles. Bear in mind, they are not 100% accurate.
Enamel paint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Epoxy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Polyurethane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I like zero rust a lot. I've been putting it on my 55. It rolls on really nicely too. It's an alkyd coating, essentially an oil-based paint. __________________ Blue Bomber Build http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...ue-bomber.html 1974 FJ55 Stock w/ Canadian weight reduction (that's going away though) front wheel disks. "In order to find his equal, an Irishman is forced to talk to God." |
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#4 | |
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In debt to the Shaman
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Quote:
![]() __________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage. |
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 442
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I'm not a paint expert, but I will pass on what I have read.
Epoxy primer is used on bare metal (it is like an etching primer). It is a 2 part paint, meaning it has a catylist. It does not sand well, so it is merely a place to start for bare metal. Urethane primer is a sandable primer. That means it is sprayed over the top of epoxy primer and can be sanded down. The intent is you spray a coat on, sand it down, spray a coat on, sand it down. This way it hides imperfections. It is usually not waterproof, so it is not a good topcoat. Enamel primer is the same as urethane primer, but is meant to go under enamal topcoats. NOTE - If you use a lacquer based topcoat, use a lacquer based primer. If you use an enamal topcoat, use an enamel primer. If you use a urethane topcoat, use a urethane primer. __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847 |
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#6 | |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: May 2006
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 365
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Quote:
So unless I'm going to sand my truck down to bare metal and start from scratch, I ought to use an enamel like Rustoleum rather than a polyurethane like Brightside? Makes sense to me. __________________ '92 FJ80, 3F-E Grrrrrrrrrrrrr, stock center diff lock, 265/75/16 Revos on 16x7 steelies, OME 861/862... dubbed "Old Suzy" by my 3-year old. |
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#7 | |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 442
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Quote:
I am not sure what the original primer/paint was from Toyota. My guess is a lacquer or an enamel.... The other thing you can do is sand/scuff your existing paint/primer and then shoot a coat of sealer. This way you can use whatever kind of paint you want... just make sure the sealer is made to go over the top of the original paint and is compatible with the new paint. __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847 |
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#8 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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Pappy;
PM me if you're heading up to the East Mountains anytime soon. I've got a bit of everything sitting in the shop and could show you some finished stuff. Automotive Paint Supply - Quality Finishes and Equipment in ABQ is AWESOME for info and paint. They're off of San Mateo, take the first left on San Mateo south of Central. Every time I've walked out of there with a decent product and a finish I was more than happy with when it was all said and done. They are more than happy to give you guidance as to what products will work best for you (and especially in NM, since it's not so humid, things are occasionally a bit different). Also: I wouldn't necessarily sweat a clear coat. If you ever run into Dad's FJ-40, it's got both my and his first attempts at clear coat on it--I bet you'd be hard pressed to find either of them. Dan __________________ 1976 HJ-45 (needs restoration) http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...self-into.html 1991 "Faux-Lux"Pickup 4x4 2LT-E/R-150f http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...onversion.html "Dandelions. You see flowers in these weeds." --Five Iron Frenzy Rebuilt Aisin Hub Faces http://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/2...hub-faces.html |
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#9 |
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In debt to the Shaman
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Thanks Dan. That's the kind of help I think I'm going to need.
__________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage. |
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#10 | |
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Brewers in '08!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: God's Country
Posts: 659
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Quote:
__________________ 04/75 fj40 slowly under resto...... build thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=99015 '94 FZJ80 (DJ81) with 14k gold emblems(wifes) '06 Tundra/Work Truck Model Iforce V-8 ( paint/estimating rig) |
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#11 |
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In debt to the Shaman
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Thanks. I've been reading on the side and I'll either go with the urethane, or the ACE enamel.
__________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage. |
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#12 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 306
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...if sanding to bare metal, metal prep solution then epoxy primer then single-stage urethane topcoat (has clear built in), if painting over old layer of paint, then need a combined primer/sealer coat to keep old paint layers from lifting, then topcoat with single stage urethane.
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#13 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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FWIW, the paint guy locally told me that urathane will hold up much better than the enamel in the long run, but the enamel can always be buffed back to a shine.
Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread. |
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