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Old 03-21-08, 08:26 PM   #1
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Frame Galvanizing & Painting question

Plan on Galvanizing my frame on my 83 BJ42 and wondering what to do with the threaded holes prior to galvanizing and painting? Do I need to leave the bolts in the threaded holes so they dont get filled up?

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Old 03-21-08, 09:05 PM   #2
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I took all of my bolts out and then chased all of the holes with a tap after it was galvanized. That was easy.

I missed a few of the bolts. The ones I missed were essesntially welded in with the galvanizing. I ended up trying to back them out and the heads broke off so I had to drill and retap the holes.

I would make sure EVERY bolt is out.


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Old 03-21-08, 10:11 PM   #3
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where in Tx did you have your frame galvanized?
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Old 03-22-08, 07:59 PM   #4
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where in Tx did you have your frame galvanized?
I could not find anyone in Texas willing to galvanize. They all cited liability issues.

I had mine done in South Carolina. I had a buddy from Texas that was working construction there so he hauled it on a trailer for me.


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Old 03-24-08, 09:33 PM   #5
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Same company I am going to use here in NC. They said around .50 cents a pound, so I cant see the frame costing more than $300?

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Old 03-25-08, 04:58 PM   #6
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I think I paid $250 which was the minimum charge for the acid dip and galvanize. This was a couple of years ago though.


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Old 04-01-08, 05:02 PM   #7
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i don't know about galvanizing but i do know the powdercoaters use silicone plugs and plug the threaded holes. i have no idea where you get them though


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Old 04-01-08, 08:49 PM   #8
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The guys that galvanized my frame did not want anything on the frame that was not metal.

Not sure if the silicone would work with galvanizing, but the temps are hotter than powdercoat I think.

It really was not a big deal to tap the holes.

The bigger deal was the 2 or 3 bolts that I missed. They were essentially welded in and when I tried to remove them, they snapped at the head of the bolt which required drilling and tapping which was much more of a pain in the butt.

If galvanizing, make sure you check twice for any bolts that have not been removed from the frame.


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Old 04-02-08, 04:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuerno Largo View Post
The guys that galvanized my frame did not want anything on the frame that was not metal.

Not sure if the silicone would work with galvanizing, but the temps are hotter than powdercoat I think.

It really was not a big deal to tap the holes.

The bigger deal was the 2 or 3 bolts that I missed. They were essentially welded in and when I tried to remove them, they snapped at the head of the bolt which required drilling and tapping which was much more of a pain in the butt.

If galvanizing, make sure you check twice for any bolts that have not been removed from the frame.
your right i don't know if they would disolve. i know i did my pedal asembly (gas) in yellow cad and the process disolved the platic bushng a little. do you even need to plug the holes after galvanizing?


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Old 04-02-08, 09:11 PM   #10
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Galvanizing and powdercoating are two different animals.

Molten zinc bath is something like 900F so silicone or anything else will be vaporized. The place that did my frame actually dipped in zinc bath first to burn off crud before starting the acid/etc dipping before going to final galvanizing. Pics in my build thread (which I haven't been able to update in quite a while).


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Old 04-04-08, 08:56 AM   #11
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i've been thinking about metalizing/galvanizing a frame and i am wondering about how worthwhile it is to grind off all the rivets and split the c-channels before blasting and plating...
i know it makes the job way bigger but maybe the way to go, any thoughts?
eric


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Old 04-04-08, 12:09 PM   #12
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i've been thinking about metalizing/galvanizing a frame and i am wondering about how worthwhile it is to grind off all the rivets and split the c-channels before blasting and plating...
i know it makes the job way bigger but maybe the way to go, any thoughts?
eric
If you are galvanizing, just have it acid dipped. This will keep you from having to blast it and thus no need to grind your rivets off.


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Old 04-05-08, 08:38 AM   #13
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i have got to do some frame repairs that i am not looking forward to. want to preserve between the c-channels, where they lap together. bla bla... sorry about the wine.


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Old 04-05-08, 08:43 AM   #14
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here in SC i was quoted the same $250 minimum charge for the galvanizing. Unfortunately, in order to have it galvanized, it needs to be completely stripped, and a chem-strip (at a different place) costs $450.


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Old 04-05-08, 07:26 PM   #15
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here in SC i was quoted the same $250 minimum charge for the galvanizing. Unfortunately, in order to have it galvanized, it needs to be completely stripped, and a chem-strip (at a different place) costs $450.
BS - find a different galvanizer that would rather have jobs to meet payroll. Otherwise - contact South Atlantic Galvanizers - I'm pretty sure the have a shop in SC. Otherwise head down to Claxton, Ga where I know they can do it as that's where i had mine done.


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Old 04-05-08, 10:26 PM   #16
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BS - find a different galvanizer that would rather have jobs to meet payroll. Otherwise - contact South Atlantic Galvanizers - I'm pretty sure the have a shop in SC. Otherwise head down to Claxton, Ga where I know they can do it as that's where i had mine done.
South Atlantic was the one I contacted. Are you saying it doesn't need to be completely stripped?


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Old 04-06-08, 08:19 AM   #17
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South Atlantic was the one I contacted. Are you saying it doesn't need to be completely stripped?
They told me they don't want any rubber or chemical type product on the frame. I think they meant spray on type undercoatings. I took a pressure washer to mine and then wire brushed some areas that the p.o. had sprayed some substance. They had no problem taking mine and it still had some stuff on it.


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Old 04-06-08, 08:58 AM   #18
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They told me they don't want any rubber or chemical type product on the frame. I think they meant spray on type undercoatings. I took a pressure washer to mine and then wire brushed some areas that the p.o. had sprayed some substance. They had no problem taking mine and it still had some stuff on it.
The only thing my frame has on it the factory paint. Maybe I'll drive up there and talk to a technician instead of the lady behind the desk... Did you have yours done at the Greenville SC location?


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Old 04-06-08, 01:56 PM   #19
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The only thing my frame has on it the factory paint. Maybe I'll drive up there and talk to a technician instead of the lady behind the desk... Did you have yours done at the Greenville SC location?
Mine was done at Traveler's Rest, SC. I think the lady I talked to there was named April, but that was about 2 years ago.


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Old 04-06-08, 02:16 PM   #20
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Yeah that's the same place. I'll have to try again, I'd love to save the $450 for a chem-strip....


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Old 04-06-08, 07:27 PM   #21
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I would make a half assed attempt with a wire brush to get some of the paint off. Take it down to metal in a few places and then take it to them. Harder to turn you away when you are there. I know for a fact there were a few places on my frame that had overspray on it and they did not turn mine away.


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My statement to my wife: "All of the accumulated crap in my shop will be really useful if I find a use for it."

"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas"- Davy Crockett
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Old 04-06-08, 07:52 PM   #22
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I was only mildly interested in galvanizing until I called South Atlantic in Claxton just to get a little more info. When I was told minimum charge was $250 (a couple of years ago) I got more interested. Then started asking about prep. Told them it had paint, grease, rust and response was no problem - they'd just pre-dip in zinc bath to burn anything off. I asked about contaminating their zinc and they said quantity was so small on a vehicle frame that it wouldn't matter.

They had apparently also done several frames for a guy restoring land rovers over the years.

Maybe I just lucked out and its not so easy anymore!


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Old 09-13-08, 07:55 PM   #23
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Can you powdercoat after galvanizing?
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Old 09-13-08, 11:15 PM   #24
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Talk to your powder-coater first - some say powder won't stick to the fresh galvanized surface. My plan with sliders and bumpers is to plate with zinc dichromate and then powder-coat because the galvanized finish can show trough the powder (the giant metal flake look). My cad plating shop has a 20' tank and I was thinking of maybe doing the frame as well and then powder coating cuz I want a black frame. Come to think of it - I need to make sure the powder will stick to the dichromate.


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Old 09-14-08, 08:05 AM   #25
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Can you powdercoat after galvanizing?
Powder Coating Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel | Enhancements | American Galvanizers Association


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Old 09-14-08, 09:03 AM   #26
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Excellent link VT - thank you


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Old 09-14-08, 10:30 AM   #27
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Awesome link VT. Thank you! This may be the ultimate frame restoration/protection method. The way I will go.
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Old 09-14-08, 07:18 PM   #28
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