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Old 11-28-07, 04:49 PM   #1
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Best method to remove axle (housing) paint??

Anyone ever try to remove or strip the factory black paint on your axle housings prior to repainting, on the vehicle?

Looking to get some feedback on what works; just never tried it.
ie: just a rattle can or brush-on paint remover good enough?

g


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Old 11-28-07, 05:02 PM   #2
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How enviromental about it do you want to be?

If you want it done with minimal time. Go buy some Dad's paint stripper from Wal Mart. It comes in a blue one gallon can and costs around $20.00. The can is the shape of Colman lanter fluid.

That stuff will remove paint, 5 layers at a time. Wear gloves and eye protection. I'm not kidding.


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Old 11-28-07, 05:56 PM   #3
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I like quick and easy; like spray or brush it on, wait 5 mintues, power wash it off it off at the car wash.

Not too worried about the environment, figure a roque asteriod will someday sterilize the earth (again) vaporizing all chemicals (and us), leaving only fresh magma; and then everything will start over.


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Old 11-29-07, 09:19 AM   #4
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sandblast it.


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Old 11-29-07, 12:36 PM   #5
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Don't have a sandblaster. They do not have much rust, just a few small spots; that is why I wanted to strip and paint them now, before they get worse.

Also, not sure if I need to use primer (self etching) on these; I am looking for a shiny black smooth finish


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Old 11-30-07, 11:56 AM   #6
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maybe just rough it all up, go with a nice primer and a good urethane black 2-component gloss.


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04/75 fj40 slowly under resto......
build thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=99015

'94 FZJ80 (DJ81) with 14k gold emblems(wifes)

'06 Tundra/Work Truck Model Iforce V-8 ( paint/estimating rig)


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Old 11-30-07, 06:17 PM   #7
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Yep sandblast that #$%^


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Old 11-30-07, 08:39 PM   #8
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Where would you find a 2-component urethane? Are you refering to what can be found at ie: Advance Auto, or a professional body shop supply place??

I am aware that bare metal revealed by sanding (or sand blasting) should generally be coated with a self etching primer. From what I recall, is that frames are dipped in a phosphate solution that has a charge put through it, then painted. Not sure about this part; depending on what media is used to "sandblast" a frame, anything hard will also remove the factory phosphate coating, but something like CO2 or some sort of plant material may not. Will have to learn more about that.

But the axles I think are just painted. So, makes sense that if you chemically strip an axle down to the bare metal may have to use an etching primer first, then the top coat which probably should be something that can withstand oil, grease, etc.


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Old 12-04-07, 06:34 PM   #9
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try one of these if you can. Not sure of your local, but diamond vogel paints is a great source for the"poor mans car paint".
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'06 Tundra/Work Truck Model Iforce V-8 ( paint/estimating rig)

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Old 12-05-07, 10:24 PM   #10
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I've never seen the Diamond Vogel brand; I can get SEM in rattle cans which is professional level stuff.

Regarding sandblasting; don't have a sandblaster, and the axle is still on the truck; so can't really go that route. I bought some chemical paint stripper in a spray can, will give that a try. Then probably try the SEM self-etching primer, regular primer, then an engine enamel to resist oil, gas, etc. Priced spray guns today for another project; under $200 for a good one, also will need a compressor that will keep 60psi at the gun, etc, etc. Now, all I need is a 2500 sq ft garage with in-floor heating, paint booth with down draft fans, a couple of lifts, a rotisserie, and I will be good to go.


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Old 12-06-07, 08:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gray View Post
I've never seen the Diamond Vogel brand; I can get SEM in rattle cans which is professional level stuff.

Regarding sandblasting; don't have a sandblaster, and the axle is still on the truck; so can't really go that route. I bought some chemical paint stripper in a spray can, will give that a try. Then probably try the SEM self-etching primer, regular primer, then an engine enamel to resist oil, gas, etc. Priced spray guns today for another project; under $200 for a good one, also will need a compressor that will keep 60psi at the gun, etc, etc. Now, all I need is a 2500 sq ft garage with in-floor heating, paint booth with down draft fans, a couple of lifts, a rotisserie, and I will be good to go.
Now that my friend is f'n funny. I guess I should have mentioned the aforementioned nice-ities. I think that "etching" primer is a name that all body men have named. Most spray bombs will tell you whether or not this is the case.


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04/75 fj40 slowly under resto......
build thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=99015

'94 FZJ80 (DJ81) with 14k gold emblems(wifes)

'06 Tundra/Work Truck Model Iforce V-8 ( paint/estimating rig)

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Old 01-21-08, 12:47 AM   #12
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por 15

I used POR-15 The chassis coat top coat I put on it is less glossy than these pics.

De-greasing is the biggest challenge I used mineral spirits, MEK, dish-washing liquid, marine clean and metal prep. a steam clener or press washer would have been a big help

I stripped paint with 3M wheels, some cup wire wheels and a little hand sanding and went over it with 80 grit

The por goes on nice it flows on and dosen't get sticky and is easy to use without runs. I just used a paintbrush but the POR flows out and look pretty much like a spray paint
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Old 01-21-08, 12:09 PM   #13
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Looks good.


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Old 01-22-08, 11:23 AM   #14
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crazy question, does por 15 have differnt colors?
if so has anyone used them


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Old 01-22-08, 08:24 PM   #15
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just silver or black

They only do silver and black but you can go over it with their tie coat primer then use any top coat. You might also consider epoxy primer and a tough top coat like polyurethane

I just like the por-15


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