[5280Hawk]

I started the paint prep for my 60 over the weekend.

Here is my game plan.

I have very limited space in my Garage, so i will be taking all of the body panels that i can off the truck and painting them individually.

The hood, then the front fenders, then the Doors, hatch and tailgate. Once all those are done, It will probably be well into spring, and I will be able to paint the rest of the body in my Driveway outside.

Did I mention I will be rolling on Rustoleum?

Color: I selected the Rustoleum Professional "Sand" Color, but, like others, decided it looked a little too peach colored, so I decided to experiment with mixing in "Smoke Grey" a different color of the same type paint.

Here is the results of mixing 3 parts "sand"
to 1 part "smoke grey"

this is a photo of my Hood with the sanding almost complete. The box on top has two color sample painted on it. The right side is the "sand". The left side is the Mixture.




I am excited to see how it goes on. I'll be finishing the sanding and starting the first coats in the next few days.

More pics to follow!

[Project60]

Subscribed.

[Wile E Coyote]

Yep, the left side looks more like it belongs on a cruiser. Good choice.

[5280Hawk]

First paint went on yesterday. here's a shot of the hood all sanded and cleaned with mineral spirits.



Paint in pan ready to go.



Here's the first coat . It went on just like all the posting on the internet said, but man! there were alot of bubbles! I got rid of them by blowing on them, and eventually figured out the correct roller speed (slow!) to keep them from forming.



In this shot below, you can see some of the sanded areas still visible under the first coat. All the walk throughs for the roller method, say you don't need primer over the bare metal. Hope so!



Heres the second coat on the hood, I just finished it up this morning. Hopefully I can wetsand and get another coat on tonight.



closeup -

[Bradley]

Good Luck! I will keep watching this

[maineidyl]

Your job looks awesome so far. Curious to see the new pics. I am getting ready to do the same method on my FJ40. Are the sanded areas blending better now?
Tom

[5280Hawk]

Third coat - You can still see the primer but it's getting better each coat.




the wetsanding helped smooth the oarnge peel areas

I have 4-5 more coats to go, Im really starting to feel good about it!

[2badfjs]

thats almost as nice as my new hood

[beaufort-fj60]

looks great.. how are you breathing when you do this. The garage door is closed in every pic.

[5280Hawk]

I really haven't been bothered by the fumes.

The Sanding was the worst! I had a mask on, but the dust got on everything!

[maineidyl]

What grit did you presand with? did you have to wet sand smooth?
What are you using to wet sand between coats? It really looks amazing. Thanks for documenting the job for evryone.
Tom
74 FJ40

[5280Hawk]

Thanks alot!

I used 220 grit to sand the old paint. Then I used 400 to once over everything. All of this was dry sanding. On the really flat areas I used an orbital sander, everywhere else I used blocks. the blocks i am using are a small peice of 2x4 (about 5") with the sand paper stapled to it, and an even smaller peice of 3/4" plywood that i cut 1" x 3". Anywhere there is a curve in the metal, I used my fingers to hand sand it.

After the first two coats I used 600 grit and wet sanded. after the next two coats it will be 800, then 1000, then 1500, then a once over w. 2000.

It's taken me exactly a week to get half of the coats on the hood,

takes forever for the paint to dry - you can only get one coat on a day.

[5280Hawk]

I read a little futher on the Mopar $50 paint job thread the last few days.

Im changing my gameplan for the sanding between coats.

I have 6 coats down now and i am wet sanding with 1000 grit for this next coat.

then i will wet sand with 1000 again lightly , and maybe a little bit with 1500, then on to buffing out the shine! Almost done!



WITH THE HOOD.......

[brownbear]

lot's of labour eh? Did you look at the thread I posted in your other thread?

It took me soo long........ But looks nice.

I even used 2000 grit. Which cuts down on the polishing.

Hint; use masking tape when wetsanding on the raised edges. Just stick it down to just cover and edge. Then it prevents you for over doing it on the edges and burning thru.

[Project60]

5280, I was at the Barnes and Noble this morning and saw Hot-Rod magazine with an article entitled "$98 paint job" which was a roller paint job using rust-o-leum.

It was similar to all the $50 articles, but might be worth browsing to give you some more tips.

As a side note - their first coat looked like yours with little coverage and patches visible.

EDIT: Here is the link - http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...job/index.html

[5280Hawk]

Wow,

this is getting to be a pretty popular way to get paint on a car...Thanks, project60, for the link!

I had to stop for a few days to help my wife finish our Bathroom remodel. I have one coat left for the hood, then i can buff it out. Ill post a pic of the final product.

[5280Hawk]

Final coat on the Hood.

So, do i want to finely sand now with 2000, and then buff, or should i just buff it after the paint dries???

It looks damn good after the paint is dry - right before i go to sand it, except it's impossible to keep little flecks of stuff out of it.




While i was waiting for the paint to dry i pulled the driver fender.

[acjb]

Can they match colors or do you have to go with what is on the shelf? I would love to do my olive brown this way but only if I can get that color. Thanks

[5280Hawk]

Can they match colors or do you have to go with what is on the shelf? I would love to do my olive brown this way but only if I can get that color. Thanks

Apparentley Ace Hardware sells a similar tintable high strength enamel, so you can match that. but the Rustoleum professional, isn't matchable.

[jsaltlick]

I'm using the ACE stuff now. Works great. They can just scan the color and match like regular paint.

[5280Hawk]

Man, it takes a lot of buffing.

I have a rotatry orbital buffer, and it's taking forever to get the paint to shine. I started with the Turtle wax buffing compound (red label), then went to the polishing compound (green label) It's shining up but it's taking forever.

At this rate it MIGHT be done by spring.

[5280Hawk]

After Four hours on the buffer today. The Hood is done!,

at least as done as it's gonna get!




You can see some imperfections when you look in the light, but im not trying to win any awards




On to the fenders and valence!

[jsaltlick]

Did you wet-sand at all or just go straight to buffing???? Curious for my efforts. Gonna start wet-sanding tomorrow....

[5280Hawk]

yep,

I wetsanded w. 1500 to get all the lint and crap out of the paint.

[jsaltlick]

Prior to that did you wet-sand at all between coats? I have a good amount of orange peel on mine fro the first coat so trying to figger out the best way to proceed.

[5280Hawk]

yeah, I wetsanded between every 2 coats, try 600 grit and get finer paper every two coats.

I went 800 then 1000, then the 1500 prior to the buffing compound, then i finished with the polishing compound.

[5280Hawk]

I got some work done on the fenders and front valence over the weekend.

I finally pulled the passenger fender, It was pretty dang cold to be out there under the cruiser. but oh well,

Shot of the two fenders and valence - they don't look too bad from that angle

close up of valence before -


I basically sanded ALL of the paint off to get all the chips to go away,


Fenders before -


Close up of rusty areas by the wheel well -

I have one of the fenders almost ready for paint - you can see some of the bondo work in the photo -


I also used some JB Weld to fill the holes from the Snake Blinder - I still have to sand it down and see how it holds up.


I plan to finish up the rest of the body work and start rolling again in a few days.

[jsaltlick]

I bought a couple cans of rustoleum sandable primer to fill in the tiny chips and nicks on my fenders. I did 3/4 of the truck with a primer coat. The primed parts made the paint roll on much smoother and more evenly. The unprimed parts were very uneven and took much more work wet-sanding. It's not necessary to do this but I wish I did the whole truck this way. For the $3 it'll cost you it makes life much easier.

[5280Hawk]

I think I will, especailly the valence where there is no paint left.

I have a can of the Rustoleum Automotive primer.

[Project60]

Looking good! I second the idea of the primer.