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#1 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 136
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First restro ( Questions )
Im doing my first frame off and have a few questions.
My truck . 1984 Bj42 Red. The whole truck is pretty good, never been touched. The reason for the restro is the rust is starting to show in alot of spots. Also the frame should be blasted and painted. Tell me if im doing this right, 1# When removing the parts im putting the bolts in there own plastic bags marked, parts also being marked if they were on the left or right. What should I know before moving on here ( Like taking the body off ) Thanks |
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 338
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Take alot of pics to show how things went together. You can draw a master "map" to show where certain parts went in relation to the truck. Just don't set bolts down and plan on getting them later. I lost some door bolts like that last week. There will be way more small parts than you think.... Any kind of master plan to remember where things go is a good idea. I just wish I had known that when I started mine. Good luck
__________________ 1973 FJ40 currently frame off, getting 4.3 CFi/4L60E/NP-205 and FJ-62 power steering. SOA, 35x12.50 MT/Rs, FJ62 FDB. Contemplating 4-link front and rear. Brought back from the grave(traded a shotgun for it, if that tells you anything). Buildup Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...up-thread.html In the 60's, people took acid to make the world weird. Now the world is weird and people take Prozac to make it normal. |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 57
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Ditto... lots of baggies and plainly mark right on them with a sharpie. Lots of pics and also drawings. I started a rebuild over 3 years ago and have nuts, bolds and parts in boxes in almost every storage place in my house. Mine is not a true restoration but a complete frame off rebuild. Not too proud to use whatever works. Saginaw steering, rear disc brakes with caddy calipers and gm rotors, jeep ebrake cables 4runner calipers and pads on the front as well as new 4runner master and so on, countless trips to the wrecker to pick up whatever will work from newer toyotas and others. Almost every bolt on this rig has been replaced with stainless or newer original. Every speck of rust removed, most parts steering box, pump, engine, both heaters etc. rebuilt. Thought I would finish this summer but life throws curves at you all the time, and I lost most of this summer to family illness. What I am trying to say here is get in, get what needs to be fixed done and get out. If you intend to go the route I took and do it right once, look to be in the rebuild stage for a year or two unless you take a few months off and blitz. Bottom line is it will to a lots faster when you know exactly what bolt and part goes where.
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#4 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Just to add to what was already mentioned, It's a lot easier disassembling than reassembling. That's why there are a lot of basket case abandoned projects out there. Make sure you're ready for the job and try to get it done in a reasonable timeframe. Stick to it. The longer you stretch out a rebuild, the less likely that you will finish it. Also, get ready to open your wallet because it will probably cost you 4x what you estimate it will once you start replacing worn out and broken parts.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck! |
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 136
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Thanks, taken it apart is not so hard your right. Its trying to remember ever little thing that can lead to those thoughts, should I run, or face the music.
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#6 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 136
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Thanks, taken it apart is not so hard your right. Its trying to remember ever little thing that can lead to those thoughts, should I run, or face the music. I have been wanting to do this for so long that I feel I am ready. Its a good truck overall, and she still has life left in her.
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#7 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Quote:
Oh, and another thing...something will always come up that will try to take you away from focusing on the truck. It always happens that way. Half way through mine, I got pregnant. Reassembling a truck takes on a whole new meaning 6 months prego. __________________ Heather '07 FJ Cruiser and 1973 FJ55 Upstate Cruisers - Land Use Officer SFWDA - Director of Land Management Georgia Cruisers TreadLightly! Master Tread Trainer DONATE TO SAVE TELLICO |
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#8 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 136
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I hear what you are saying. The garage is getting a bit chilly now.
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 84
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When you box up your bolts and parts, etc, box them according tp where they're from on the vehicle, and keep some form of log that tells you what box they're in, whether it's a book, or marking the outside of each box.
__________________ 1982 BJ42...restoration in progress. "Always wear your seatbelt...It makes it harder for the aliens to suck you out of your car..." |
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#10 |
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VI Cruiser Pres no more
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When I did my resto of my 1981 FJ40 7 years ago, I used the ziplock method with descriptions written on pieces of note cards in the bag... you could go so far as to put the # of bolts in the bag too. By putting the card in the bag, you can reuse the bag for different stuff later.
I also recommend some plastic "shoe boxes". You can buy them at Cantire or Walmart, they come in stacks of 5/6. They will outlast any cardboard box by far. I labelled the boxes with a Sharpie on masking tape, like "hard top parts", "fender bolts x16" etc..., then put the baggies in the box. It helps with organization for sure, so you just have to pull the box you need for a particular job. I still use the same boxes (and some of the original baggies) for my spare parts and other jobs. Good luck __________________ -Stumpalama 1981 FJ40 "The Tick" ROTW thread 1997 LX 450 factory lockers, OME lift, new HG & PHH, ARB bullbar, Warn M12000 winch, Kaymar Rear Rubicon Pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/stumpst...690384/detail/ Check out VICruisers at: http://members.shaw.ca/VICruisers/ |
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Junior Whopper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 771
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Putting the type of bolts is good too. As you may want to replace bolts with stainless or new JIS zinc etc...
ie... qty=16 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm Yellow Zinc QTY = 10 6mm x1.00 x 15mm etc __________________ Yahsoo! 1969 Breathe FJ40 Currently in the middle of a ground up... 1976 Olive FJ40 finished as of May 2008 Faster Track Resto
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#12 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 173
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easy to redo
hi there i am doing my frame up everything brand new including nuts and bolts
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#13 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 173
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how do you put pictures in
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#14 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 173
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redo
here are some pic i think[url=http://coolfj40
Last edited by fieldsken1; 02-08-08 at 08:00 PM. |
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#15 | |
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VI Cruiser Pres no more
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Quote:
__________________ -Stumpalama 1981 FJ40 "The Tick" ROTW thread 1997 LX 450 factory lockers, OME lift, new HG & PHH, ARB bullbar, Warn M12000 winch, Kaymar Rear Rubicon Pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/stumpst...690384/detail/ Check out VICruisers at: http://members.shaw.ca/VICruisers/ |
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#17 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Pico Rivera
Posts: 87
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Your on the right track. I would attack it one section at a time. start with left fender. Anything you take off place in a baggie and mark it with a sharpe then put it in a box. The hit the left door, baggie, mark it box it. Also spray some wd-40 or liquid wrench in the bag. Just a lil. this will help keep those bolts and screws from rusting. Do you own a wire wheel. Many bolts can be saved if you hit them with the wire wheel. Sometimes a lil rust gets in the way and might strip the screw hole. Hope this helps.
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