Rattle Can primers

k9crazy · 08-03-07, 08:46 AM

My FJ55 is about ready for soda blasting. Just some welding and grinding of floorboards and she's good to go.

The soda guy says that the process will leave a coating on the metal that will prevent it from rusting for about a week. Which is cool...because I have some filler work and glazing to do to smooth some dings and what not out.

In fact, I think I have enough of that filler and glazing (and the fact that this is my first time doing this and I am pretty meticulous) that it will take more than a week to complete.

I have read threads here that say to use a high zinc primer then sealer to prevent rust from developing as a result of moisture in the air (which we have here at about 70% humidity all the time).

So I think I can handle all this. My question is...can I rattle can on the primer and then have the truck painted at a shop and still expect good results?

Any advice on this process?

D'Animal · 08-03-07, 08:57 AM

I would use a good primer. The paint shop will sand before they paint so it should stick.

If it is a high dollar paint job, you could call the paint shop and ask them what type of priimer they want you to use.

REZARF · 08-03-07, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D'Animal

I would use a good primer. The paint shop will sand before they paint so it should stick.

If it is a high dollar paint job, you could call the paint shop and ask them what type of priimer they want you to use.

x2

Call the guys who will shoot it and they can tell you what to use.

toddslater · 08-03-07, 11:15 AM

X3 on check with the guys at the shop where your having it squirted. You don't want to have done all your hard work just to watch the paint lift because of an incompatable primer. I'd also ask what glazing putty they use as well for those pin holes etc...compatability and non shrinking is what will make you and the shop happy.

cruiser88 · 08-05-07, 02:39 PM

when i was shooting for a cheap primer(rattlecan) I went for laquer primer. But i use nothing but zinc now (PPG powder epoxy mix) with MEK to reduce. Then a intermediate coat, furthermore the final coat

john_eckels · 08-10-07, 07:44 PM

you can pick up an aerosol sprayer at NAPA for a few dollars. This will allow you to mix some good automotive grade primer to cover your areas.

llih · 08-13-07, 04:10 PM

Sherwin Williams makes an etching primer in a spray can if you want to go that route.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...m?product=7565

08-03-07, 08:46 AM	#1
k9crazy IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Atlanta, GA TLCA# 16079 Posts: 1,582	Rattle Can primers My FJ55 is about ready for soda blasting. Just some welding and grinding of floorboards and she's good to go. The soda guy says that the process will leave a coating on the metal that will prevent it from rusting for about a week. Which is cool...because I have some filler work and glazing to do to smooth some dings and what not out. In fact, I think I have enough of that filler and glazing (and the fact that this is my first time doing this and I am pretty meticulous) that it will take more than a week to complete. I have read threads here that say to use a high zinc primer then sealer to prevent rust from developing as a result of moisture in the air (which we have here at about 70% humidity all the time). So I think I can handle all this. My question is...can I rattle can on the primer and then have the truck painted at a shop and still expect good results? Any advice on this process? __________________ Heather '07 FJ Cruiser and 1973 FJ55 Upstate Cruisers - Land Use Officer SFWDA - Director of Land Management Georgia Cruisers TreadLightly! Master Tread Trainer DONATE TO SAVE TELLICO

08-03-07, 08:57 AM	#2
D'Animal Beagles Rule! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central California TLCA# 17104 Posts: 10,078	I would use a good primer. The paint shop will sand before they paint so it should stick. If it is a high dollar paint job, you could call the paint shop and ask them what type of priimer they want you to use. __________________ Cruiser Dan at American Toyota Phone is 1-800-432-6668 ext. 8 (I am not cruiser Dan)

08-03-07, 11:15 AM	#4
toddslater IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 1,007	X3 on check with the guys at the shop where your having it squirted. You don't want to have done all your hard work just to watch the paint lift because of an incompatable primer. I'd also ask what glazing putty they use as well for those pin holes etc...compatability and non shrinking is what will make you and the shop happy. __________________ 1)Wanda: I hate people. Do you hate people ? Henry: I don't. I just like it better when they're not around.

08-05-07, 02:39 PM	#5
cruiser88 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: over here TLCA# 17319 Posts: 7,128	when i was shooting for a cheap primer(rattlecan) I went for laquer primer. But i use nothing but zinc now (PPG powder epoxy mix) with MEK to reduce. Then a intermediate coat, furthermore the final coat __________________ http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...13957_15_0.jpg http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...113957_1_2.jpg Last edited by cruiser88; 08-05-07 at 02:46 PM.

08-10-07, 07:44 PM	#6
john_eckels IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 357	you can pick up an aerosol sprayer at NAPA for a few dollars. This will allow you to mix some good automotive grade primer to cover your areas. __________________ 1997 LX450 Green! with lockers

08-13-07, 04:10 PM	#7
llih IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: High Desert, SoCal Posts: 613	Sherwin Williams makes an etching primer in a spray can if you want to go that route. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...m?product=7565 __________________ 1973 chevota 1990 suburban 1986 k3500 Stop the SPP Baldwin for President

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