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Old 04-03-07, 04:57 PM   #1
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body work on or off frame

Can the body work be done off the frame? I am ready to move on to the next step but it looks like getting the premium tubs from heritage are gonna take too long so I guess its time to search for a local boyd guy. The body has been off for some time and I was wondering If it can be done as is off the frame and on a stand versus being attached to the frame. will all the dimensions in the body and frame manual work as long as you brace the corners and go from there?

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Old 04-03-07, 06:13 PM   #2
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well, my body shop told me they would have to put my tub alone on a rotisory so they could get all the areas.

if your not having the underside painted i could see them maybe putting it on a stand. makes sense but no pro here. just my little 2 cents. this is just what i have been told by professional body shops.

good luck


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Old 04-03-07, 09:43 PM   #3
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Hopefully you braced all the openings before removing the body from the frame. If not, there's a very large chance your doors won't fit properly, especially if there's rust in the tub.


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Old 04-04-07, 06:06 PM   #4
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So if you are replacing panels, should you brace before taking the hardtop off? I am replacing rear panels and I have taken the hardtop off. Should I put the hardtop back on and brace???
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Old 04-04-07, 06:57 PM   #5
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how do you know when measurements have changed? is there a book on dimensions i have some sort of black book with all the measurements for the frame and such i hope it has them for the tub.

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Old 04-05-07, 03:00 AM   #6
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You can brace once the hardtop is removed, before cutting any body panels. You want to temp weld a brace across each door opening to maintain measurement, or at least that's the way I do it. Front doors brace left to right, weld across the top of the tub in the rear from left to right, with legs to maintain height. You'll need the legs to touch the frame, so will need to remove rear sill first, which incorporates two body mounts. Then on to quarter panels, inner fenders, floors, body mounts, and the like. I'm sure there are dimensions, someone's recorded, I don't have em available right now.


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Old 04-05-07, 09:45 AM   #7
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Rotisserie is the way to go.
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Old 04-05-07, 05:13 PM   #8
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Rotisserie is the way to go.
Nice! Always dreamed of doing it that way but just don't have the space.


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Old 04-06-07, 05:55 PM   #9
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Nice! Always dreamed of doing it that way but just don't have the space.
Ya just need some tax payers to buy you one and send you a bunch of kids to help out on the "project". jk

All they did at my High School was build demolition derby cars and hack up stuff. Wish I would have had a cool auto shop teacher. Now, just a few more years of working and maybe I too can get on at a votec or hs.

Back on topic, no need to brace on the 55? or did you make a "frame" to mount the body to?


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Old 04-06-07, 07:51 PM   #10
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No frame.

Maybe before I take the roof panel off it'd be a good idea though.


Taxpayers didn't buy me a rotisserie. The kids made it for a fabrication project out of some old engine stands. Someone had bought some three legged ones that I wouldn't use after a kid tipped one over almost on himself last year. I can't stand to throw anything out so I still had 'em when I needed 'em.

The shop 69 Camaro will go up on it when the pig is off.


It is awful nice perk to the job to have a shop to work in.


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Old 04-06-07, 08:02 PM   #11
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That is clever. I have seen those three legged jobies, but would never use one. Is it adjustable in height and length? Does it just use the engine mounting plate/tube to rotate or did the get fancy with some bearings or such?

Two engine stands and two sets of big pneumatic casters and I would be able to role it in and out of the shop and over to the Costco tarp for painting.


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Old 04-07-07, 05:42 AM   #12
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It's adjustable for length. The big 2" chunk in the middle is bolted in. We can drill new holes wherever.

The heads just rotate on the stands. One person can spin it easily enough.

The tires are the steel casters that came on the stands. One person can wheel it around the shop. That was a huge bonus that I wasn't expecting.


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Old 04-07-07, 06:25 AM   #13
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cool rotisserie Gumby. Do you plan on pouring some rust inhibitor up/down the a/b/c/d pillars.
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Old 04-07-07, 07:07 AM   #14
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cool rotisserie Gumby. Do you plan on pouring some rust inhibitor up/down the a/b/c/d pillars.
Hadn't thought of that. They really aren't a rust prone area on the 55. I might cut the B pillar open and weld a roll bar hoop right inside the pillar.


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Old 04-07-07, 01:55 PM   #15
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Sweet Rotisserie

That is one sweet unit.


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Old 04-09-07, 11:50 AM   #16
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Hadn't thought of that. They really aren't a rust prone area on the 55. I might cut the B pillar open and weld a roll bar hoop right inside the pillar.
I never messed with a 55, but the 60's A pillars are rust traps. At least mine are.
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