First coat on bare metal

rgentry · 04-01-07, 11:46 AM

I am continuously in the process of cleaning and painting lots of small parts for my cruiser: hinges, latches, bumpers .... I generally sandblast everything to bare metal. I would love to find a local plater who would put electro-zinc on the parts as a base coat, but I have had no luck. So, I am trying to figure out what the first step should be -- self etch? epoxy primer? Something from Eastwood? My main goal is rust prevention. I hate rust so much I would dip my stuff in pure zinc if it would take paint afterwards (but it will not).

Since I am always working in small batches, it would be good if I could find something great that's available in a rattle can.

I would say that my primed stuff often sits around for months before it gets shot with the final coat. So, the ability to re-sand something before the final coat is important.

Also, as a novice, I tend to put too much paint on things, which leads to bad results I have found.

So, what should I be starting with?

Gumby · 04-01-07, 12:26 PM

I prefer epoxy primer, but I wouldn't mix up a whole gun full for a few parts and it's almost not worth cleaning the gun for one gun full.

Maybe if you used a Preval cartridge it'd be worth it.

nick · 04-01-07, 12:51 PM

Try Zero-Rust, it's sandable, can be applied to bare metal and comes in rattle cans.

rgentry · 04-01-07, 03:39 PM

Thanks guys. I have used epoxy paint with the little Preval guns. It has to be thinned a bit to work. I guess that's the best choice to stick with.

I do use Zero Rust but am reluctant to use it on body parts that will receive my finsh coat (Concept 1-Part Urethane).

my64fj40 · 04-01-07, 05:09 PM

For small stuff like that I normally clean to bare and hit with some rattlecan Zinc Rich Primer that they carry at local car shops. Works as a great first primer and should do a good job or preventing rust.

Plus it comes out quite different than conventional rattlecan stuff, more of a powdery substance, but sets up like normal paint. You can cover a whole hinge with just a couple sprays. That should help with the overpainting

igotta40 · 04-02-07, 02:58 PM

Rust-O-Leum Rusty Metal Primer, don't waste time with anything less. I can tell you from experience it will still be on the part twenty years from now.

rgentry · 04-03-07, 08:08 PM

How is the zinc rich primer different from galvanizing in a can (which is about 95% pure zinc?(

04-01-07, 11:46 AM	#1
rgentry IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 660	First coat on bare metal I am continuously in the process of cleaning and painting lots of small parts for my cruiser: hinges, latches, bumpers .... I generally sandblast everything to bare metal. I would love to find a local plater who would put electro-zinc on the parts as a base coat, but I have had no luck. So, I am trying to figure out what the first step should be -- self etch? epoxy primer? Something from Eastwood? My main goal is rust prevention. I hate rust so much I would dip my stuff in pure zinc if it would take paint afterwards (but it will not). Since I am always working in small batches, it would be good if I could find something great that's available in a rattle can. I would say that my primed stuff often sits around for months before it gets shot with the final coat. So, the ability to re-sand something before the final coat is important. Also, as a novice, I tend to put too much paint on things, which leads to bad results I have found. So, what should I be starting with?

04-01-07, 12:26 PM	#2
Gumby Former Wheeler Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Knee deep in hookers and gin TLCA# 5658 Posts: 4,968	I prefer epoxy primer, but I wouldn't mix up a whole gun full for a few parts and it's almost not worth cleaning the gun for one gun full. Maybe if you used a Preval cartridge it'd be worth it. __________________ War Pig and Cerdito "Don't you know, Stan, it's *always* between a Giant Douche and a Turd Sandwich."

04-01-07, 05:09 PM	#5
my64fj40 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Corpus Christi/Austin, Texas Posts: 1,632	For small stuff like that I normally clean to bare and hit with some rattlecan Zinc Rich Primer that they carry at local car shops. Works as a great first primer and should do a good job or preventing rust. Plus it comes out quite different than conventional rattlecan stuff, more of a powdery substance, but sets up like normal paint. You can cover a whole hinge with just a couple sprays. That should help with the overpainting __________________ "Jeep, it's what's for dinner." 1964 FJ40- 406 SBC - TH350- HFS 4in- Detroit in rear- 35s Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...87#post1089087 Build web-site: (Still in progress) http://my64fj40.bravehost.com/

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

04-01-07, 12:51 PM	#3
nick IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: lake arrowhead Posts: 288	Try Zero-Rust, it's sandable, can be applied to bare metal and comes in rattle cans.

04-01-07, 03:39 PM	#4
rgentry IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 660	Thanks guys. I have used epoxy paint with the little Preval guns. It has to be thinned a bit to work. I guess that's the best choice to stick with. I do use Zero Rust but am reluctant to use it on body parts that will receive my finsh coat (Concept 1-Part Urethane).

04-02-07, 02:58 PM	#6
igotta40 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 184	Rust-O-Leum Rusty Metal Primer, don't waste time with anything less. I can tell you from experience it will still be on the part twenty years from now.

04-03-07, 08:08 PM	#7
rgentry IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 660	How is the zinc rich primer different from galvanizing in a can (which is about 95% pure zinc?(