HVLP Guns ????

[Trollhole]

New to the whole HVLP idea. Need a setup to paint two cruisers and maybe more. I've been told that your better off getting a cheap gun for primer and a good gun for the finish paint.

Whats a good gun that doesn't cost an arm and a leg for primer? What tip size should I use?

What is a good gun for the finish paint? I've seen guns go for upwards of $500 or more. I don't think I really need that lind of finish for a cruiser. I've been told there are good guns that even the professionals use that cost less than $175.

And last but not least is it worth geting liners or some sort of disposable cup system to make this whole process less messy?

[Trollhole]

I bought this gun from Northern Tool thinking I could paint the primer with it. Am I just pissing in the wind?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...0615_200320615

[JJS]

I have an HVLP gun. I bought it used for $20, but I think it's from HF. It works fine. Cheap siphon-feed gun for primer is fine. You may only get a couple paint jobs out of it, though.

[toddslater]

A few years back I picked up a new, low end, top loader Devilbliss HVLP gun for ~$150. Nice gun...keep it clean and you can prime and paint with it for quite some time.

[my64fj40]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

I bought this gun from Northern Tool thinking I could paint the primer with it. Am I just pissing in the wind?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...0615_200320615

That gun will work fine, I wouldn't have a problem shooting a top coat with it either. But I still prefer to have them separate.

[bosscat800]

You should use a good quality gun for primer! Think about building a house, you need to have a good foundation to build on, same thing goes for painting. Also, a good quality basecoat gun and depending on how serious you are about this job maybe even a good quality clear coat gun. Hope this helps.

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by bosscat800

You should use a good quality gun for primer! Think about building a house, you need to have a good foundation to build on, same thing goes for painting. Also, a good quality basecoat gun and depending on how serious you are about this job maybe even a good quality clear coat gun. Hope this helps.

So what would be some choices?

[toddslater]

Apparently they still have a similar deal FLG-646. http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundep...FQ8RgQodQFrgQQ

3 tips 1.8 for prime, 1.3 and 1.5 for base and clear. 1 gun no muss no fuss.

[my64fj40]

Originally Posted by bosscat800

You should use a good quality gun for primer! Think about building a house, you need to have a good foundation to build on, same thing goes for painting. Also, a good quality basecoat gun and depending on how serious you are about this job maybe even a good quality clear coat gun. Hope this helps.

So what problems would he have with the gun he has now??

It doesn't matter how good of a paint gun you have, it's all about how good you prep and keeping the water out. Do that and it will come out great, no matter the gun.

BTW, primer can be sanded down and should be, foundation of a house, not so much.

[Radd Cruisers]

Primer gun can be just about anthing to sprays, just have to make sure it has a tip option big enough for high builds or spray putty.

You often can buy a inexpensive gun set with primer and spray gun, some guys even like three guns, primer, base and clear gun.

[poseidon]

If you are looking for an affordable set to get you going the Astro is also a highly recommended brand choice.

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Astro/index.htm

[miker]

Don't forget to check the CFM requirements of HVLP guns before you buy. The one suggested above is: Average air consumption: 10 CFM @ 29PSI

I use a Binks M1G which is, or used to be, one of the lowest CFM users: 10CFM at 18psi

With the Binks, it actually works better for me at a slightly higher psi which means more CFM is required than spec'ed. I've heard these numbers posted for guns are not necessarily for optimum results so I would not purchase a gun at the top end of your compressor's spec'ed output.

[webelk6]

Originally Posted by miker

Don't forget to check the CFM requirements of HVLP guns before you buy. The one suggested above is: Average air consumption: 10 CFM @ 29PSI

I use a Binks M1G which is, or used to be, one of the lowest CFM users: 10CFM at 18psi

With the Binks, it actually works better for me at a slightly higher psi which means more CFM is required than spec'ed. I've heard these numbers posted for guns are not necessarily for optimum results so I would not purchase a gun at the top end of your compressor's spec'ed output.

As do I. A binks mig-23 I believe with a d93 tip. 18psi outlet . Of course your inlet pressure can be 150w/ the next inlet being 60psi , so the book says.

I paint primer and finish. Just KEEP IT CLEAN

[bosscat800]

If you want good guns, I would look into Sata. KLC for primer, RP for clear and a couple to choose from for base. These guns are clearly not the cheapest but its what I do for a living and found these to work the best for me.

[bigbrowndog]

Originally Posted by bosscat800

If you want good guns, I would look into Sata. KLC for primer, RP for clear and a couple to choose from for base. These guns are clearly not the cheapest but its what I do for a living and found these to work the best for me.

These Sata are good guns but the RP gives out a bit more overspray than say a Devilbiss Finishline 3 and is probably too fast for a novice painter, not a problem in a booth but most the guys here will not be spraying in a proper booth. The $400 Iwata lph 400 will give less overspray but most will not want to spend that sort of money unless doing a show job. The Devilbiss Finishline 3 at around $115.00 is a good quality gun for this sort of work and has available 4 different sized tips for different applications.The Devilbiss Plus gun is an excellent gun for clears and for use in and out of a booth dollar for dollar is probably the best choice at half the price of the IwataLPH400
The Dura Block 007 is a very good gun and comes with 3 different tips.
The problem going to really cheap guns is that a lot of your expensive paint is wasted as the material transfer is very poor on cheap guns so you use a lot more paint to do the same area. Best stick with a LPHV gun [low pressure high volume] with a good material transfer rate and be aware of the PSI and CFM the gun requires.Most LPHV guns will use 15/25PSi at the gun and require 7 to 10 CFM. The compliant guns will want 40 to 75 PSI and more CFM than the LPHV gun. Also to be considered with the compliant guns is that they are mostly a lot faster gun to use than the HVLP unit and a novice will find it much harder to get a decent job with one realizing you will not be painting up to 10 or so paint jobs a day like a pro.
Bosscat, I was wondering if you or any of your mates have tried out the new Devilbiss Compact gun that has just come out? cheers gazza
forgot to mention Astro hvlp evo as a good cheap gun under $100.00 cheers

[bosscat800]

bigdog, I use to use devilbiss all the time. Shot a Sata and will never go back, if you set up the rp right it does a amazing job with clear. Tried the Iwatas but found them to be to slow and did not see a big savings with material. Another problem with the off brand guns is they say they are a hvlp but are truly not. Also, the off brand guns are not engineered " holes drilled precisely" as the name brand guns, Devilbiss, Sata, Binks, Iwata. As for 64fj40, keeping water out is only part of the problem, dirt floating into the paint, dirt coming out of the car, off the person spraying, oil. As far as primer being sanded down, thats basic. As far as the primer being applied so that it is smooth as possible, that comes with being able to spray any refinish material and a high quality gun is much easier to accomplish this with. I am not trying to get him to buy the most expensive guns out on the market, jsut figured if you are going to do the job do it the best that you can and make the easier on your self.

[Trollhole]

I agree getting a good gun is key. But I'm not looking for a showroom finish. I'm painting this in my garage. Paint is going to run me around $700 per cruiser. I'm only planning on doing this maybe 4 times in my life. Paint consumption is not that important. Having something easy and cost effective is. After looking at some sigle stage paints they have me sold. The liners I have seen for HVLP guns are what sold me. Just looks easy.

[bigbrowndog]

Originally Posted by bosscat800

bigdog, I use to use devilbiss all the time. Shot a Sata and will never go back, if you set up the rp right it does a amazing job with clear. Tried the Iwatas but found them to be to slow and did not see a big savings with material. Another problem with the off brand guns is they say they are a hvlp but are truly not. Also, the off brand guns are not engineered " holes drilled precisely" as the name brand guns, Devilbiss, Sata, Binks, Iwata. As for 64fj40, keeping water out is only part of the problem, dirt floating into the paint, dirt coming out of the car, off the person spraying, oil. As far as primer being sanded down, thats basic. As far as the primer being applied so that it is smooth as possible, that comes with being able to spray any refinish material and a high quality gun is much easier to accomplish this with. I am not trying to get him to buy the most expensive guns out on the market, jsut figured if you are going to do the job do it the best that you can and make the easier on your self.

Cheers, I agree about the Sata guns though I am sure we both agree the spare prices suck big time. I agree they are a great gun for a pro or some one fairly good but I think they are a bit too fast for a learner especially not doing the job in a booth.Also like the Sata3000 but the spray pattern is wider again than the Rp. The Iwata LPH400 will lay clear down like glass out of a booth but $450+ is hard to justify for a part timer.My personal opinion is the DevilbissGFG 670 plus is as good as any gun in laying down clear and it is a slower gun which makes it easier for inexperienced people to use.

I agree getting a good gun is key. But I'm not looking for a showroom finish. I'm painting this in my garage. Paint is going to run me around $700 per cruiser. I'm only planning on doing this maybe 4 times in my life. Paint consumption is not that important. Having something easy and cost effective is. After looking at some sigle stage paints they have me sold. The liners I have seen for HVLP guns are what sold me. Just looks easy.

As Bosscat pointed out the really cheap guns are not well engineered using extra paint is only one downside as it becomes overspray, and lands on your fresh paint they do not have a precise fan and it is hard not to get banding or stripes also the clear coats tend to be always orange peel finish. Later as you improve and want a better finish with the clear or to spray a pearl finish then you will be looking for a better gun. If you look on USA Ebay there are often quality used guns for sale there for 1/3 to 1/2 their new price, many that have had minimal use. The cup liners are great for little jobs like jambs or to get in areas where you may want to turn the gun upside down or such. Cheap guns are like cheap rattle guns they use more air and and do not deliver the goods.Better to spend an extra $60/$100 and try for a better finish which will be easier and cheaper in the long run especially if you use it four times.

[FL cruiser]

I recently bought a DevilbissGFG 670 plus. They can be found new in the box for $300 to $350. Comes with three tips.
Great gun for the money. Just sprayed my 60 and another 60 with great results. first gravity feed gun I've used, and no problem making the transition. I've been told by several professionals no need to use an HVLP if the laws in your state don't require you to, and the newer quality conventional guns don't waste paint either.

Here is a good auto body forum, and i bought my spray gun from him too.

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

[FL cruiser]

Painted at home with my ne Devillbiss GFG 670

http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=53.0

[bigbrowndog]

Originally Posted by FL cruiser

Painted at home with my ne Devillbiss GFG 670

http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=53.0

Top job, well done the 60 looks clean and cool.

[honk]

I bought but sent back a Devilbiss Finishline 2 gun. I didn't like the plastic parts that are used through the painting system of the gun. I did keep the baggie 'liner' setup though to use in the gun I traded the devilbiss for. I've come to find those liners to be a big PITA. Nice idea that sometimes won't puncture right, that will fold over their outlet, and are not that easy to get out of the gun after use without making a mess. MUCH easier to use the old way of spraying out with solvent or laquer thinner to clean the gun.

When looking at CFM delivery of a compressor don't forget to take into account that delivery volume differs at different output pressures. A compressor rated to give only 5 CFM at 90 psi will give more than that at the 25-30 psi HVLP inlet pressure.

Brownbear, you use the terms HVLP and LPHV. What's the difference between high volume low pressure and low pressure high volume?

[TimCFJ40]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

I bought this gun from Northern Tool thinking I could paint the primer with it. Am I just pissing in the wind?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...0615_200320615

I bought the same gun for my project. Haven't got that far yet, but we should certainly get together and at least one of us can learn from the other's mistake.

This will be my first paint job ever also, just trying to get the tub in order to start spraying.

Tim

[bigbrowndog]

Originally Posted by TimCFJ40

I bought the same gun for my project. Haven't got that far yet, but we should certainly get together and at least one of us can learn from the other's mistake.

This will be my first paint job ever also, just trying to get the tub in order to start spraying.

Tim

This gun with it's 1.4mm tip will be ok for a base coat, top coat and also clear if it sprays ok. For an undercoat especially a hibuild epoxy it is far better to have a gun with a 1.7 or 1.8 mm nozzle, a 1.4mm will struggle to spray some undercoats. You will need to check the air output on your compressor to make sure it pumps enough air for the gun. Try a test on an old panel or sheet of tin first and make sure you have your spray pattern correct. cheers

[LandCruiserPhil]

I found this info on the Harbor freight HVLP gun.
As a new-b painting with a gun it seem like a good starting point.
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...Pspraygun.html
What do you guys with experience think?