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Old 05-23-08, 05:59 AM   #31
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You need to watch out. You keep up with the Yak boxes and whatnot and I'm going to think you're stealing my truck! I really like having weatherproof rooftop storage. Works better for me than an open roofrack right now.
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Old 05-23-08, 07:00 PM   #32
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I agree 100% with keeping things dry and out of the way, I will get an open storage type of roof rack 1 day, right now I have had that box sitting in the garage for about 2 years collecting dust and I just got sick of seeing jumper cables, MREs, and other survival goodies rolling around the back of the truck. I also have an excursion planned for the Outer Banks for next weekend and I felt like I was going to need more storage for that trip, so one call to Slee and then next thing you know a package shows up in the mail.

I'm not far behind you with bolt on equipment, I am eyeing up that ARB for the next purchase and that should be about it, I think. I wanted a good factory looking slider to replace the running boards that I got rid of, I think the only one that even looks close to a factory running board is the product from Slee. Any other options?


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Old 05-26-08, 08:14 PM   #33
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Brett that looks sick! My 60 is coming together for that type of fun but I really like setup you run.


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Old 05-27-08, 05:16 AM   #34
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Not sure about other step-type sliders. I have the Slee step sliders and I like them, definitely a good place to stand on to reach the roof! Our Yakima box is a BlackTop 21--21 cubic feet, I think it was about the biggest one they make. And it still looks small on the roof of the 80. It swallows a ton of gear, though.

Thanks, Jeff--I'm definitely veering more towards trippin' type mods rather than straight wheeling. Rethinking the storage system in the rear right now to combine a single half-width drawer with a hinged platform to sleep on, but then half the platform can be hinged over so bikes can go inside the truck, upright, on long drives (out of the weather and the wind).

Also been following some of the tailgate storage threads in the 80 and 60 sections.

Anyway, hijack over!


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Old 05-28-08, 05:42 AM   #35
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Continue to Hi-Jack, there was a guy in Iceland that put in a drop in storage unit, he bascially cut out the floor where the 3rd sits and dropped in an aluminum tub, if I was at home I could post the link from the forum. I'll try to do it later tonight, it was way cool.


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Old 05-28-08, 06:37 AM   #36
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I remember seeing that thread, I think. It was pretty slick. I'm kinda thinking of an on-board water tank in the stock spare tire location, though, rigged to both a cold spigot and an on-board hot water system. A man can dream, right?


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Old 05-28-08, 12:49 PM   #37
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I don't remember that part of it, but it was similiar to what you are describing. You remove the spare and cut a hole right above the location and drop in this tub. It was pretty smooof.

The rig is down at Iron Pig getting the Birfs squared away - I can't wait for that bill.


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Old 05-29-08, 05:18 AM   #38
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Sorry, I meant instead of doing the storage bin like that guy did, I'm pondering putting a water tank between the frame rails under the floor where the stock spare is.

At least with Iron Pig, I'm sure you'll be happy with the work.


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Old 05-29-08, 04:34 PM   #39
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Just got the bill, they replaced both birfs (I provided 1, bearings (4) all seals, gaskets and miscellanous items), installed that PITA A/C line - total cost $1100.00. Good work for good money. I have no complaints, they were good guys and will send them more work.

I still can't get the center dif to lock, they thought it was the viscous coupler / transfer case that was screwed up (yesterday's news) and then today they thought it was something with the Engine ECU. I am scratching my head on that one. Not sure about that diagnosis, I am going to get into my service manual and see what it says, I thought for sure that it would be the Locker ECU that would be the issue - this is starting to drive me nuts, if I can't get the center diff to lock, then the other axles will not lock either - and that makes me angry.


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Old 05-29-08, 05:39 PM   #40
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you can rewire your axles to lock without using a computer. its not that hard except Im not sure about keeping the stock switches. humm some electrical god would be able to solve this one.

Im guessing theres a loose ground wire somplace.


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Old 05-30-08, 05:19 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campoj2 View Post
Just got the bill, they replaced both birfs (I provided 1, bearings (4) all seals, gaskets and miscellanous items), installed that PITA A/C line - total cost $1100.00. Good work for good money. I have no complaints, they were good guys and will send them more work.

I still can't get the center dif to lock, they thought it was the viscous coupler / transfer case that was screwed up (yesterday's news) and then today they thought it was something with the Engine ECU. I am scratching my head on that one. Not sure about that diagnosis, I am going to get into my service manual and see what it says, I thought for sure that it would be the Locker ECU that would be the issue - this is starting to drive me nuts, if I can't get the center diff to lock, then the other axles will not lock either - and that makes me angry.
Good to hear the feedback on the IPOR work. I was considering contacting them for some things as well.

Bad to hear about your center diff lock woes. I'm guessing you already posted up the behavior somewhere else to see if anyone could help out? If so, I'd like to read it if you can point me in the right direction.


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Old 05-30-08, 05:16 PM   #42
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are you SURE your center isn't locking? My switch was bad and intermittent. I had to buy a new one (they are the same as the axle diff switches BTW, so you *could* try to swap one to test)

IOW: the center was locking but the switch wasn't showing it.... therefore I couldn't lock the front or rear

No problems since


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Old 06-04-08, 08:36 AM   #43
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At OBX right now on the 4x4 beaches and I still can't get the dif to lock. I did find out someone mod the 7th pin.

The switches were replaced with a new ones from Cdan (transfer case & center diff). The locker ECU came from a junk yard and I am wondering if that part could be the source of all my pain.


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Old 06-04-08, 07:53 PM   #44
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Take that locker computer and throw it in the trash/ on ebay. use this write up to have everything work. http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Wri...ck_control.pdf

I imagine you will use the same circuit for both lockers and the center diff.

Another thing. Us Taco guys have somthing called the "gray wire mod" basicly you ground out a wire so you can use the locker at anytime, any speed, any drive 2H for example. Somthing like that may apply for you.


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Old 06-05-08, 05:07 PM   #45
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again, are you SURE your center isn't actually locked and its just the LIGHT that isn't coming on? (no offense, but you didn't answer and it would point to a totally different problem than your thinking if so)

get in the sand, put it in low range, drive a bit to make sure it's got time for the center to lock, VISUALLY confirm that when gunning the gas only one tire (probably front) spins for a bit until the other axle starts to spin (center viscous coupler)

If the center IS locking, one front and one rear wheel should spin at the same time (no lag)

check it out and report back

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Quote:
Originally Posted by campoj2 View Post
At OBX right now on the 4x4 beaches and I still can't get the dif to lock. I did find out someone mod the 7th pin.

The switches were replaced with a new ones from Cdan (transfer case & center diff). The locker ECU came from a junk yard and I am wondering if that part could be the source of all my pain.


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Old 06-05-08, 06:07 PM   #46
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Side question...Did you have to buy a permit to get on the beaches this year? Heading to Oakracoke Island soon...


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Old 06-05-08, 07:35 PM   #47
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If you are coming to the outerbanks you don't need a permit, just some good common sense, like don't drive a mini van on the beach, or maybe your mom's volvo, yes, I have seen it all this week and let me tell you Darwin has some good data.

As for the center diff issue, I have been driving around with the center diff switch on, no light - I just discovered that someone else did the mod on the 7th pin on this truck and it wasn't me. I was the one that installed the center diff switch! The lights do work, I ground out the connector and both, the center diff light and abs light came on. I have been driving the beach like a madman and working the transfer case when the situation dictates and right now no lights. IPOR told me it wasn't locking and I can't get it to lock, this may actually have to go to the stealership eventually.

Someone mentioned that it might be the engine ecu and then I am thinking, could it be the locker ECU located on the passenger side foot panel, it is the only part that was not purchased new.

John


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Old 06-06-08, 04:33 PM   #48
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if you're sure your center is not locking then your on the right track for your problem

I just want to make sure you understand what I'm saying in that my center WAS locking but the sensor in the transfercase was intermittent. Therefore, even though my center WAS locked, my light wouldn't come on and the ECU thought it was NOT locked. I had to replace the sensor switch on the front of the transfer case. (IIRC it's the same sensor switch as on your axle diff)

My point is that you cant just assume the center isn't locking correctly by looking at the light on the dash. It was lying to me and might be to you. If so it's an easy fix (new switch in X-fer case)

Have fun in OBX and yes.... there are some stupid people on the beach. I saved a minivan last year and a subaru this year. (awesome sight dragging a whole vehicle around like a rag doll.... a real crowd pleaser as everyone stops to watch )


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