New to me: '66 FJ40 - Page 4

kb3gun · 04-30-09, 02:07 PM

Here are a few I have with me here at work. Well, the engine and trans look better than they did in post #55.
I have some Mustard Yellow coming this week so I can get the firewall painted before putting the tub in place. I used Rust Bullet on the frame along with a topcoat. Should last a month or two in the weather.

CJBury · 05-01-09, 04:04 PM

Nice.

Blue77FJ40 · 05-04-09, 05:30 AM

Schweet.

kb3gun · 05-05-09, 11:00 AM

In the attached picture:
Fig. A shows the pinion flange parallel with the transmission flange.
Fig. B shows the pinion flange pointing directly at the transmission flange.

Question: Since I don't want to run a DC (double cardian), do I want to set up the front axle as depicted in Fig. A?
How about the rear? Maybe somewhere in between A & B?
I think in the rear, I need them close to parallel as I don't want the parking brake linkages to close to the ground for obvious reasons.

As an update: Will be painting the firewall one evening this week. Sure picked a nice low humidity week for this... Going with Mustard Yellow. Should get the tub on the frame this weekend.

caz · 05-05-09, 01:37 PM

Looking good!

Yes, you want to use option 'A' for a standard ujoint and option 'B' for a double.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb3gun

In the attached picture:
Fig. A shows the pinion flange parallel with the transmission flange.
Fig. B shows the pinion flange pointing directly at the transmission flange.

Question: Since I don't want to run a DC (double cardian), do I want to set up the front axle as depicted in Fig. A?
How about the rear? Maybe somewhere in between A & B?
I think in the rear, I need them close to parallel as I don't want the parking brake linkages to close to the ground for obvious reasons.

As an update: Will be painting the firewall one evening this week. Sure picked a nice low humidity week for this... Going with Mustard Yellow. Should get the tub on the frame this weekend.

Blue77FJ40 · 05-07-09, 06:15 AM

Bill, what's wrong with running a double cardan joint?

kb3gun · 05-07-09, 06:55 AM

Nothing wrong with it. I just think it would be simpler and maybe stronger without the DC. I may be wrong. It wouldn't be the first (millionth) time on this build. lol

kb3gun · 05-23-09, 08:09 PM

Well, got a little bit more done today. Saginaw install.

Lining up the steering gearbox for the crossmember cut.

Time to dust off the plasma cutter:

Front cut was easy, back took a little while to cut out.

Test fit of the crossmember support tube.

Welded up and a coat of primer.

Every thing lines up good. Still need to cut a scab plate for the outside of the frame.

Two more days to work on it till it's back to the office. Wish we had more 3 day weekends.

Tomorrow will be more body work and a few more small holes to fill in the tub. Hope everyone that went had a good day wheeling!

shmukster · 05-24-09, 07:10 AM

Bill- don't let the outputs remain parallel. Point the axle flange toward the transfer output- that way one U-joint will not be working through a steep angle. The angle of the axle has nothing to do with the angle that the U-joint at the transfer end works through.

When we did the spring over on my pig we rotated the axle to keep a straight angle through the U-joint at the axle end and that gave me a fairly steep angle for the transfer U-joint to work through. Running this way I went through a U-joint at the transfer end every year and these were good U-joints either OEM or Spicer. I went to a double cardan at the transfer end two years ago and it is a sweet setup. the DC joints are as strong as a regular joint, minimize vibration, and maximize life of the u-joints. The flip side is if you have a good shop make your new driveshaft from top quality components it ain't cheap. My front DC shaft cost almost $500 but it is a work of art- perfectly balanced and I am 100% pleased with it in every way.

Your truck looks great, have you fired the engine yet? You'll love it. gary

kb3gun · 05-24-09, 08:19 AM

I'll take your advice Gary and change the pinions to pointing instead of parallel. Who did you have make your shafts? Tom Woods?

zucruisers · 05-24-09, 10:13 AM

HAD does good driveshaft work from what i've heard...i've never been very impressed with Tom Woods shafts...i've seen a lot of them broken

plus HAD is familiar with toyota stuff, so it could be built with all toyota parts

High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875

shmukster · 05-24-09, 11:54 AM

Can't speak for HAD one way or another but I do respect John and Dom's opinion. I can't say good things about Tom Woods driveshafts even though they advertise in Trails.

I had Hartman's in Reading make my driveshafts. They are a driveshaft, gearing/locker specialist that also does tremendous alignment work. The owner, Gerry Hartman is an older fellow- mid sixties- and lets nothing but quality work out the door. Gerry still hill climbs and road races in Mustangs and is quite the guy. If you want him to make your driveshafts I'd need your flange to flange lengths, bolt circle and chord information, and the diameter of any hub protruding from the center of your output flange.

Having said all that there has to be a good shop out your way to make a pair of driveshafts. And maybe HAD is a good bet. I'm happy with what I have and very confident in the workmanship Gerry puts into his products.

I'll be interersted to see how you proceed. Best of luck! Gary

kb3gun · 05-24-09, 07:19 PM

Thanks all. I'll check out high angle when it's time to buy.
Gary, know anyone with a set of 55 rear springs for sale?

caz · 05-26-09, 06:10 AM

Driveshaft tech - Pirate4x4

Single joint needs to be parallel top and bottom.
Double goes straight on one end.

shmukster · 05-26-09, 05:29 PM

Andy- I disagree, and this is only my opinion. Why would you run any U-joint through a greater angle than necessary? If Bill is going to install his front axle any way he wants- and can point his front flange toward the transfer case front output flange, why wouldn't he want to do that? The angle through which the U-joint at the transfer case output works will be pretty much the same whether he points the front diff flange toward the transfer case flange or allows them to remain in a parallel line. If one can minimize one of the U-joint working angles without making the partner work through a steeper angle why wouldn't you do that? I don't believe harmonics is an issue here either, especially at the relatively slow speeds in which we most often have the front driveshaft turning. Again, only my opinion here. Gary S

kb3gun · 06-15-09, 10:26 AM

For those that have been asking for an update:

Yet to do...

Weber 38 (Redline)- Ordered (the 32/36 I have has some issues plus it's small)
4x4 Labs Hi-Steer setup (saginaw pump, gearbox and shaft already installed)
CS-144 Alt (Regulator is toast on the oem unit I have)
Gear Reduction Starter (might as well)
Rebuild F/R axles
Loc-Right, or similar, for the Rear (cheaper than ARB)
Cut-n-turn front
ARB for the Front (can wait on this)
Seatbelts (Wrecker yard or online when I have some time)
F/R Drive Shafts
55 Springs (rear)
Full Roll Cage
Exhaust (building my own off the header)
SS Brake Lines
Shocks
Anti-Wrap bar (have hardware/mounts, still need tubing)
Wiring (I have all new lights and harness)
Wheels/Tires (35" or 37" - Not sure yet)
Paint

I have more time than money right now, and I have little time...

I've debated doing a few short cuts along the way, but in the end, I'd rather do it once, and right

kb3gun · 06-15-09, 10:37 AM

Forgot to add Brake Master (not yet sure what I'm going to use here either). Looked at a non-boosted corvette master. Also looking at a few different boosted combination's. Just need time to read up on it.

caz · 06-15-09, 12:14 PM

Gonna come help me do Saginaw on mine when you get it done? The more I read, the more my head spins...... still not sure what parts I need.

One other note - SHORTCUT ANYTHING YOU CAN!!! Get the truck running and useful - you will not regret it. I can much more easily find a Saturday here and there to work on a small project on my truck than I can find the time to "rebuild" the whole thing.

CAZ

kb3gun · 06-15-09, 06:34 PM

Well, I've come this far. Might as well finish it as good as I can now. If I do it right, I can wheel on Saturdays and not have to fix stuff.

By the way, your 40 looks great! Doesn't look like you took any shortcuts...

Blue77FJ40 · 06-16-09, 05:17 AM

Andy, do a query on John Smith's saginaw install writeup. Lots of good info there, as well as a complete parts list w/part numbers.

Thanks, Dan

caz · 06-16-09, 06:13 AM

Thanks!

I did take a lot of shortcuts to get the truck on the road - no power steering, seats not really fastened in, rear axle not gone through, wrong hinge on the windshield, hood not painted, no radio, no "cage", engine compartment wiring to be cleaned up, driveshafts need refreshed, parking brake not working, TONS of little details. I knock them out one by one when I have the time and money.

Being able to drive the truck goes a long way toward motivation. I love tinkering around with it on Saturday or Sunday afternoon for a few hours while the wife and son take a nap.

Andy

caz · 06-16-09, 06:14 AM

Thanks Dan, I will check it out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue77FJ40

Andy, do a query on John Smith's saginaw install writeup. Lots of good info there, as well as a complete parts list w/part numbers.

Thanks, Dan

kb3gun · 07-28-09, 07:38 PM

We'll I've been slammed at work since CMCC. I hope to get a day off this weekend to work on the 40.

Here are a couple of things I got finished:

P/S Pump:

Saginaw Pump Mount (thanks to John Smith for the idea) using the stock P/S mount. As you can see, the pulley isn't bolted tight yet. Need to blast and powdercoat the mount.

Another view of the P/S pump

12si Alternator (1-wire)

Fabbed up a lower bracket to fit in the stock mounting bracket.

Another angle.

Current configuration.

I may switch to the 3-wire alternator as it's easier to find a replacement on the road. That, or I'll just carry a spare. Either way, the new mount will work .

Seems the humidity over the last couple of weeks has created a little surface rust. Time to break out the powdercoat and fire up the oven.

Lugboot · 07-29-09, 05:43 AM

Man, you guys are amazing. Awesome work.

Blue77FJ40 · 07-29-09, 05:46 AM

Lookin' good, Bill. Be nice if my block was tapped for that ps pump mount. I've heard too many horror stories of people trying to drill and tap those bosses in earlier 2Fs.

Your steady work reminds me of that song 'Anticipaaaaaayaaayaaation'.

kb3gun · 07-29-09, 10:34 AM

More like the song "Two steps forward and three steps back" but it's getting there. Thanks for the remarks.

blitzkreigfj · 08-08-09, 09:17 PM

looks great!gives me hope on the 68!

kb3gun · 09-05-09, 08:51 PM

Another update:

Got my Redline Weber38 installed.

Got my power brakes in. Still need to finish fabbing the mount and plumbing the lines.

With everything mounted, plenty of room for the throttle cable.

Here are the front 55 springs I got from Gary. Tore them apart & wire wheeled them with my grinder.

Here's one finished. Used slip-plate between the leaves and regular black in a can for the outsides. Also added new poly bushings. The front end actually moves up and down when I push on it. Big difference.

I just picked this up last evening. It's a 9x20 lathe. Got the bench for it today and am about ready to transfer it from the cart to the bench. Milling machine (mini-mill) will be here next week.

I have a set of 55 rear springs coming from Colorado. Once they're here, they'll get the same treatment as the fronts.

That's it for now. I picked up some 2x4 3/16" rectangular tubing for the front and rear bumpers. Need to order a few odds and ends for the tire carrier I'll be building. Ordering the high-steer kit from 4x4Labs next week. Feels like I'm getting closer to the finish line.

Still need to order a full cage and tubing for my anti-wrap bar.
Still need to build an exhaust.
Still need to order shocks. Free set from Rancho what I won at CMCC.
Still need to build/buy some DC driveshafts with extended splines.
Still have the cut-n-turn to do.
Still need to wire.
Still need to paint.

I'll be lifting the tub off again to do the exhaust and run the brake lines (not required but it makes it much easier on my fat arse

) so the wiring/cage/seats etc will be done once the tub goes back on.

That's it for now. Have a good Labor Day!

CJBury · 09-08-09, 01:00 PM

This project is coming along quite nicely Bill. I remember when you bought it and I said your nuts it's a total POS. I hope you havn't bit off more than you can chew. (No offense Sean) You have definately made me eat my words. It is going to be a bad ass rig when you're done. Cant wait to see it wheel.

shmukster · 09-08-09, 04:15 PM

Bill- what master cylinder are you using? gary