New to me: '66 FJ40 - Page 2

zucruisers · 02-06-08, 09:23 AM

ive got an extra pair of fj60 springs if ya need them

Wayneraintree · 02-06-08, 10:39 AM

look into recessing the spring and shackle hangers up into the frame a few inches....

just add a couple leaves to a stock pack in SOA.... if you plan to trailride the beast, you can then cut the axles at the factory weld for the knuckle and set the pinion angle and caster, drop it 2 degrees to allow for settling, then burn in the perches and reweld the knuckle to the housing... easy enough? LOL!

Same drill for the rear minus the cut and turn, just set the pinion angle and burn in the perches.... get ya some 14" travel shocks.... build a rear trackbar, highsteer arms and DOM rods and link on the front steering... you get the idea : )

kb3gun · 02-06-08, 11:12 AM

Already planned to do a cut and turn. Waiting to pick up the axles to see how I'll need to line everything up.

Quote:

look into recessing the spring and shackle hangers up into the frame a few inches....

Another good idea. Once I get all my components here I may have a better idea on how it's all going to go together.

I only have a 115v mig (flux and gas) so unless I get a heavier welder before then, I'll just tack everything and try to get a local welder to come and weld everything up at one time. Once I get the frame blasted, I'll go to the next step then. It'll be a few weeks so I have time to do some research.

Thanks for all the ideas.

jtaco1 · 02-06-08, 06:15 PM

I wouldn't be afraid of the 110 machine. You saw the one I have, run 0.023 or 0.030 flux core and turn the heat all the way up. I can burn 3/16 no problem, bevels are your friend as well. Unless you want to buy a bigger welder

I'll be using the 110 on my swap when time comes.

zucruisers · 02-06-08, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtaco1

I wouldn't be afraid of the 110 machine. You saw the one I have, run 0.023 or 0.030 flux core and turn the heat all the way up. I can burn 3/16 no problem, bevels are your friend as well. Unless you want to buy a bigger welder

I'll be using the 110 on my swap when time comes.

if you're going to be doing any more welding on anything thick (1/8-3/16+)...get some .035 or .045 flux....023 and .030 are for sheetmetal

jtaco1 · 02-07-08, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zucruisers

if you're going to be doing any more welding on anything thick (1/8-3/16+)...get some .035 or .045 flux....023 and .030 are for sheetmetal

But on a smaller maching the smaller wire puts more heat into the metal and allow a little more penetration. I know the previous owner of my welder said that .045 wire sucked through the machine. I have only used .030 wire in my machine and it has done fine, sucked for 1/4" thats why I don't go that heavy or will have Sean or my uncle weld it up.

Also just going on what I have read and seen over on Pirate, 4runner rick uses .023 for everything he builds, which seams to hold up fine. Hell he just built a set of steering arms with the little 110 machine

Back to the FJ40 Build now

Disclaimer: I claim no real knowledge of welding, I am self taught and only marginal at best compared to John

kb3gun · 02-07-08, 08:14 AM

I can always borrow the Lincoln 170 (220v) from work if need be. I forgot we had a portable one here. I'm a welding noob myself too. I can arc on 1" plate all day, but using Mig on the small stuff (sheet metal) takes some getting used to. I'll use the 220v for the frame and axles. I'd feel a little more confident with that.
Thanks for the suggestions!

Wayneraintree · 02-07-08, 09:55 AM

Hey Bill, you may/may not have to cut and turn... particularly if you stretch the wheelbase with a little bit longer springs, like 55 rears or even using the 62 springs... the 62 axle has more positive caster than other cruiser model axles so be sure to measure the degree with a degree finder to see if it is needed...

Talking to John last night, we agreed you could easily raise the hangers for the springs and shackles without having to sleeve the frame since with the spring spacing of the 62 axles... you will have to outboard just like in the link I posted. Then you can simply raise the hangers upside the frame on the outboard brackets to gain less lift : )

62 springs are stronger, have slip pads, and have a little more leaves than others BTW... very refined : )

Straydog · 02-07-08, 04:47 PM

Just for the record, the shackle holder on the rear of the 40 was built with a 110 welder. I then hooked it to my mack and dragged it up my driveway. 13,000+ lbs. just to make sure it would hold

kb3gun · 02-07-08, 05:20 PM

Only 13000 lbs... I guess I'll leave the shackle holder there then..lol
Once I get some more welding under my belt, maybe I'll be a little more confident on my small mig. Thanks for the info tho. A friend here at work told me today he does all the welding on his stock car with the same 110v welder, so maybe there is something to it.
Thanks again!

zucruisers · 02-07-08, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Straydog

Just for the record, the shackle holder on the rear of the 40 was built with a 110 welder. I then hooked it to my mack and dragged it up my driveway. 13,000+ lbs. just to make sure it would hold

i never said it wasnt possible to weld thick metal with a 110 welder, i just think at least .035 wire should be used

...i started out using a friend's hobart 130 before i bought my lincoln 175, and i did a lot of welding on 1/8-1/4" plate

Wayneraintree · 02-07-08, 06:10 PM

.035 flux core is the specific wire size for burning 1/4 with a 110..... which is the recommended max BTW : )

kb3gun · 02-07-08, 07:29 PM

Well, with any luck, I'll be taking the tub off the frame this weekend. I'm going to fab and replace all the supports and weld some captive nuts for the transmission cowl (cover). I may POR15 the underside once all the work is done to it. If I do get the tub off, I'm going to send the frame off to the sandblasters the following week.

I drew up the RR Fender today and once I take a few more measurements and polish it up, I'll be sending this out to get made by one of the fabricators I use for military work. The dimensions on it now are from my current fender. I should just wait until the axles and springs are located so I only have to do it once.
I'm thinking I can just bend it as I go around the rear quarter. If not, I'll have them bend the corner radius for me too. How easy or hard is it to bend 16GA?

Once I get all that done, I'll also be welding a 1" strip to form a lip along the bottom of the quarter panel to make it a little more rigid.

I'll be visiting Gary in a couple of weeks to pick up the axles and drivetrain, so I'm going to try and knock out as much as I can before then so I can get right to work on the suspension once I get it here.

I'll probably go the 60/62 spring route too and see what the angles look like before I do any cutting. I've planned the cut & turn since I started this project. If I have to do it, hopefully I won't screw it up too badly.

Well, my head is starting to ache thinking about everything that still needs to be done. I'm going to go watch some TV since I don't have to be at work until 5AM tomorrow... 'night all, and thanks again for all the ideas and suggestions.

Lugboot · 02-08-08, 05:28 AM

Wow, I just have to say, you guys are all pretty damn amazing. I bow to your skillzzz.... in contrast, I cleaned a throttlebody yesterday. And was proud that everything was hooked back up right.

to all of you and the horde of knowledge you have.

I felt pretty stupid reading most of the last 10 posts.

kb3gun · 02-08-08, 05:45 AM

Quote:

I felt pretty stupid reading most of the last 10 posts.

Me too...

Mike at Rausch Creek · 02-08-08, 06:15 AM

i was just checking out your build thread link... looks like you are moving along pretty good, keep up the good work Bill!

caz · 02-08-08, 06:22 AM

That wheel well opening on your drawing really doesn't look right! Are you sure your angles are correct?

kb3gun · 02-08-08, 06:47 AM

I used measurements I wrote down the day before and I appear to be off some. That's the polishing I was talking about. It won't be an exact duplicate as hand cuts are hard to reproduce on a machine.
I'll be looking at some photos of other 40s to true it up some.

Nice overlay by the way.

caz · 02-08-08, 06:53 AM

Looks like you have it under control. I just didn't want to hear next week that you had to get them recut because they were off! ;-)

CAZ

kb3gun · 02-08-08, 06:56 AM

HaHa... Still might happen. It's easier to do it right the second time...

caz · 02-08-08, 07:00 AM

I would seriously think about ditching either the front or rear 90 degree bend (I think I would do the front). The chances of you getting the overall length perfect on the first try are slim to none!

The front 90 could be welded on and you would never notice once you have put seam sealer in there.

Just a thought....

CAZ

kb3gun · 02-08-08, 07:02 AM

Good point. I would more than likely be off by the time I got to the end.

76FJ40 · 02-15-08, 05:45 AM

Bill,

If you need to replace the rear quarters, check out BudBuilt's 3/16" laser cut quarters. I got some for my son Matt for Christmas - nice quality, industructable, and the price is good.

kb3gun · 02-15-08, 05:50 AM

Thanks. I didn't realize Bud did quarter panels. I'll look into them.

kb3gun · 03-12-08, 05:18 PM

Got a delivery today:

Thanks Gary for the parts and thanks to Mitch for the delivery. Surprising how much room 2 axles, an engine and a transmission take up.
The engine is a 2F out of an '82 with a 4sp and split transfer. Axles are 4:11 out of an FJ62.

Any suggestions for disc brake conversion for the fj62 rear? Drums are fine, but I like disc better... less maintenance.

Wayneraintree · 03-12-08, 05:35 PM

Don't the rear axles have the e-brake (bell crank)? If so, then the drums are self adjusting (assuming you set the e-brake each time) and are quite adequate IMHO..... congrats!

kb3gun · 03-12-08, 05:48 PM

Yes, e-brake in the rears. That's good to know Jeff. I'll wheel the drums and see how I like them. Then I'll decide what to do.
I'll finally have time this weekend to pull the tub and get the frame out to sandblast. I've had less free time than expected over the last couple of months and am looking forward to getting back at it.

kb3gun · 03-18-08, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 76FJ40

Bill,

If you need to replace the rear quarters, check out BudBuilt's 3/16" laser cut quarters. I got some for my son Matt for Christmas - nice quality, industructable, and the price is good.

I talked to Bud yesterday and I'm going to order the quarters. While I'm rebuilding the underside of the tub, I think I'll add some extra supports for these beasts. My BudBuilt skids on the FJC are the same thickness. Can't wait to see them. And you're right, can't beat the price.

kb3gun · 07-29-08, 05:51 PM

Weekend Project--- Price of gas is down... Who's in?

Got a shipment from Bud today:

Just leaned it against the tub to get a look. This will be fun. Glad I beefed up under the tub. Weight is 35 lbs. Time to cut out the old quarters.

Sorry for the bad pics. Just had my cell handy at the time.

Here's what I've been working on over the past week:

Just cleaning up the 2F. Got all new gaskets and seals. Figured I'd replace them and paint while I had the time. Sandblasted all the brackets while I was at it. There is a small leak up front (looks like the timing cover) so I'll be taking off the crank pulley one evening this week too. Glad I sold the xBox or I'd never make any progress on this thing.

As far as the frame, it's been sandblasted. Once I get some weight back on it, I can start laying out the SOA and get to welding.

That's it for now.

Straydog · 07-31-08, 06:07 PM

What, you didn't like my custom quarters? I worked so hard on them. No skill and big hammer= wavey quarters