BBCNN Meeting 11-10-09

[Bbumbl40]

Eleventh Meeting - 2009
Reno, Sparks - BBCNN


Date:Tuesday, November 10th 2009 Time: 6:30 p.m.

Place: Round Table Pizza, 4007 So. Virginia St. In the old Town Mall on the corner of So. Virginia & Peckham.

Agenda
1. Next club run: date & trail.
2. Update on Club merchandise
3. Elections (If there are any nominations)
4. Web site update.
5. TLCA Report.
6. Accounting report.
7. Suggestions, ideas, questions, new business.

New and Continued Business
1. If you have a new address/phone number or e-mail address, let us know.
2. Club shirts are for sale.
3. If anyone needs help with a repair or conversion, let us know. This is an open invitation.

BBCNN

[chicago]

Im in!

[locrwln1]

I'm out. Sorry. I thought I was going to make it, but something came up, so it is a no go for me.

Jack

[thumper]

I think I am actually going to make this one...for the first time! Coming up for the Gun show in Reno on Friday, but taking the week off for a mini vacation. See you guys on Tuesday.

Jon

[DesertLake]

I'd like some advice from you mad fabbers in the group on this idea to replace the box section of the body under the driver's feet with something more open and less rust prone -

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...ml#post4950290

if I remember to throw the original and the model in the car before work I'll bring them to the meeting.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by DesertLake

I'd like some advice from you mad fabbers in the group on this idea to replace the box section of the body under the driver's feet with something more open and less rust prone -

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...ml#post4950290

if I remember to throw the original and the model in the car before work I'll bring them to the meeting.

Sweet, BTW I build card board models too. No help on ideas though, sorry.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by DesertLake

I'd like some advice from you mad fabbers in the group on this idea to replace the box section of the body under the driver's feet with something more open and less rust prone -

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...ml#post4950290

if I remember to throw the original and the model in the car before work I'll bring them to the meeting.

What do you need help with specifically?
Looks to be a good model to me. Weld it and go.
Is 3/16 really called for? Pretty stout stuff.
If you need a hand, I can swing by after work one day.
Rust prone? if you find that material that you can weld that is also cost effective, lemme know!

[DesertLake]

I'm not sure if 3/16 is necessary, but the body mount behind the rear wheel does use 1 layer of roughly 3/16 steel instead of the top and bottom of a 16 gauge box. Whatever I use will be thicker stuff than the floor, which brings me to the part I'm most clueless about -- which weld to use? Welding the edge of the thicker steel to the sheet metal seems easier than plug welds because I don't have to put a precise bend on the thicker steel, but what will really work here? Keeping in mind the welds will be upside down, with the thicker steel hanging from the floor. If I go with plug welds, I need to redesign the prototype a bit.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by DesertLake

I'm not sure if 3/16 is necessary, but the body mount behind the rear wheel does use 1 layer of roughly 3/16 steel instead of the top and bottom of a 16 gauge box. Whatever I use will be thicker stuff than the floor, which brings me to the part I'm most clueless about -- which weld to use? Welding the edge of the thicker steel to the sheet metal seems easier than plug welds because I don't have to put a precise bend on the thicker steel, but what will really work here? Keeping in mind the welds will be upside down, with the thicker steel hanging from the floor. If I go with plug welds, I need to redesign the prototype a bit.

I hate to say it, but from what youre describing, the plug welds would be FAAAAR more effective and easier in general than trying to run a fillet bead along the edge of the thicker material to the thin ga.
That this stuff is REEEEEEAAAAAALY THIN when it comes to welding. TRUST ME on this. Ive been dickin around with this thin metal shit for too loong now and know one thing...it doesnt take ANYTHING to burn through that crap. With a plug weld, I essentially dot around the circumference of the plug hole, let it cool a bit, the just weld in the rest.
The way youre talking about doing it CAN be done...dont get me wrong, but youll still have to run a sequence of tacks (just as you would with body panels) to make a bead, and unfortunately, it WILL burn through in spots.
Do you have a 110V or 220V welder? Mig or stick....I forget.
It will be much easier with a 110v, OBVIOUSLY. My experience is base on using my 220V unit. However, even with the 110v I learned on, the lowest setting is still pretty hot. I was making swiss cheeze out of 1/8 in wall, but again...I was learning on that.

[DesertLake]

120V Mig, and yes I see it your way now. Getting the bend right will be tricky, but as we discussed at the meeting, I should be able to reduce the gauge quite a bit so the bend won't be as difficult to execute.

Thanks again Keith and Jon@ for the pointers!

[chicago]

Originally Posted by DesertLake

120V Mig, and yes I see it your way now. Getting the bend right will be tricky, but as we discussed at the meeting, I should be able to reduce the gauge quite a bit so the bend won't be as difficult to execute.

Thanks again Keith and Jon@ for the pointers!

Not a problem.
Im learning as I go too. The thin ga stuff is a PITA.
Cant wait to start welding on some beefier material again.
Honestly though, doing the plug welds is an effective and relatively easy way to affix thin ga materials. I learned that on Marks doors when I ran the c channel for support on the interior panel. Im utilizing that on the fender well re build, and the rest of the tub for that matter. If Toyota appreciated its simplistic beauty, then why cant I?
Pick up some seam sealer. I used that per Jack's recommendation inside the 1/4 panels on the Blotch rig and it worked awesome. Ill be doing this to the 40 when I get there on basically EVERY seam on the tub.

K