V8 Time!

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by CaliCruiser

Dude I have been staring at my transmission-less and transfercase-less 60 for far to long. It is going to be difficult to get it finished before the Rubithon, but this semester is finally over so I will have some time to throw at it. I still need to build a cross member, build twin sticks, redo drivelines, and clearance the front crossmember, blah blah blah. How is the V8 hunting going?

Dylan

Save yourself some heartburn and buy the AA twin sticks. By the time you buy all the hiem joints and materials you will spend mored that they are asking. I went through the same agony.
For a cross member I took the OEM torsion tube to a fab shop and had them make the same thing only longer. Sam at SamCo here in town did it for $30 out of .125 wall DOM. I had him make it extra long and trimmed it to fit.
It makes a great place to tie my trac bar to the frame.

[CaliCruiser]

I finished the twin sticks last night, I've got a thread going in the 60 section. How much are the twin sticks from AA? I only spent about 45 bucks on them, I still need a twin stick boot though. . .

Dylan

[rusty_tlc]

I thought it was around $75, but when I looked on their site they list one that is $220.
I know I wouldn't have paid that much for the one I have so it may be discontinued.
Check farm machinery parts places for the dual boot, lots of farm equipment use two levers side by side like that.

[chicago]

I GOT A MOTOR!!!!!!
This is a real project now...NO turning back!
Its a 5.3 out of a 2001 something or other with 49K...Picked it up for 800.00. I DO have to get the accessory parts for it like the alternator, PS pump etc...
Do any of you know...the stock wiring harness...will I ditch that when I get a harness from painless wiring, or of the like?
Pretty excited...got a lil scared looking at it and imagining the work that is gonna need to be done to make this a reality.

Just FYI!

K

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by chicago

I GOT A MOTOR!!!!!!
This is a real project now...NO turning back!
Its a 5.3 out of a 2001 something or other with 49K...Picked it up for 800.00. I DO have to get the accessory parts for it like the alternator, PS pump etc...
Do any of you know...the stock wiring harness...will I ditch that when I get a harness from painless wiring, or of the like?
Pretty excited...got a lil scared looking at it and imagining the work that is gonna need to be done to make this a reality.

Just FYI!

K

Shawn has experience splicing a Cheby engine into a 60 harness. Consult him before you do anything drastic.

[450 DUDE]

Sooo yo u got a petrol burner or Diesel?

ken

[iaintscared1969]

You won't need the original harness. Just remember to mark your old harness as you disconnect it so when you get ready to hook up your new harness you won't have to hunt down wires.

Also keep the stock ECU for programming and begin to make a list of items you will run on the engine so when you go to fill out your harness build sheet you won't be guessing. Also you will need gear size and tire size for the ECU and if it will be an auto or manual. I know you are going auto though. Sorry my e mail at home has been jacked up for 2 weeks now and I am ready to kill a Road Runner! Thank god for the work computer.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by 450 Dude

sooo Yo U Got A Petrol Burner Or Diesel?

Ken

Gazzzzzoline!

K

[chicago]

Originally Posted by iaintscared1969

You won't need the original harness. Just remember to mark your old harness as you disconnect it so when you get ready to hook up your new harness you won't have to hunt down wires.

Also keep the stock ECU for programming and begin to make a list of items you will run on the engine so when you go to fill out your harness build sheet you won't be guessing. Also you will need gear size and tire size for the ECU and if it will be an auto or manual. I know you are going auto though. Sorry my e mail at home has been jacked up for 2 weeks now and I am ready to kill a Road Runner! Thank god for the work computer.

YAP...
Looking at the stock harness that came with it...
I donno what half that crap is.
Keep the stock toyota ECU, or the vortec ECU?

Thanks for all your help Randy!

K

[iaintscared1969]

Leave the Yota ECU where it is if you like. You need the Chevy ECU for reprogramming and also lose the factory harness! Call up FIS and talk with Jeff McMnaus and tell him what you are doing and ask him for my harness layout. If you have questions on the programming list give me a call.

[locrwln1]

Hey Keith,

Just another worthless information post in your V8 thread.

Brian E
Registered User
Member #3632


Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 408 5.3 for sure. Salvage yards want a ton for anything LS1, LQ9, or 6.0. The 5.3's are dime a dozen and are really snappy on the low end. Call me when you are ready to put any one of them in. We have compete "make it run" kits. Wiring, pump, reflash, motor mounts, headers, surge tank kits, and shallow steel oil pans. We also have a few options for making more power. We do a lot of 5.3's with cams that make about 380hp and 400ftlbs at about 5000rpm. We had a cam built to make the torque down lower then race cars.

Brian
__________________
Twisted Customs LLC
605-923-7288
twistedcustoms.biz

The oil pan stuff might be of use to you. Although I would think the v8 would be shorter overall than the I6. So you may not need anything like that.

I like their power numbers. Yeah baby. I keep this up, I might start looking for a 5.3...

I kid, I kid.

Jack

[chicago]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

Hey Keith,

Just another worthless information post in your V8 thread.

Brian E
Registered User
Member #3632


Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 408 5.3 for sure. Salvage yards want a ton for anything LS1, LQ9, or 6.0. The 5.3's are dime a dozen and are really snappy on the low end. Call me when you are ready to put any one of them in. We have compete "make it run" kits. Wiring, pump, reflash, motor mounts, headers, surge tank kits, and shallow steel oil pans. We also have a few options for making more power. We do a lot of 5.3's with cams that make about 380hp and 400ftlbs at about 5000rpm. We had a cam built to make the torque down lower then race cars.

Brian
__________________
Twisted Customs LLC
605-923-7288
twistedcustoms.biz

The oil pan stuff might be of use to you. Although I would think the v8 would be shorter overall than the I6. So you may not need anything like that.

I like their power numbers. Yeah baby. I keep this up, I might start looking for a 5.3...

I kid, I kid.

Jack

I havent heard of complaints regarding the oil pan depth, but I did read about it in the petersons mag. It makes sense though.
Do you know anything about swapping the output shaft on a tranny?
I had a correspondence with Orangefj45, and he said that the only way to get the 4L60E to mate with the NP203 is to swap the output shaft on the tranny...
Thats a drag to hear.
However, he did tell me about a th350 adapter plate that can be used to mate the two once the output shaft was swapped and its pretty cheap!?

K

[locrwln1]

Originally Posted by chicago

I havent heard of complaints regarding the oil pan depth, but I did read about it in the petersons mag. It makes sense though.
Do you know anything about swapping the output shaft on a tranny?
I had a correspondence with Orangefj45, and he said that the only way to get the 4L60E to mate with the NP203 is to swap the output shaft on the tranny...
Thats a drag to hear.
However, he did tell me about a th350 adapter plate that can be used to mate the two once the output shaft was swapped and its pretty cheap!?

K

I didn't know about the output shaft, I thought they were the same from a th350 to 4l60e. Swapping the output shaft shouldn't be a huge deal, just another expense. It's always the little things that kill you on a swap. It's easy to plan on the big things.

Jack

[chicago]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

I didn't know about the output shaft, I thought they were the same from a th350 to 4l60e. Swapping the output shaft shouldn't be a huge deal, just another expense. It's always the little things that kill you on a swap. It's easy to plan on the big things.

Jack

Know anyone in town who does it, and does it right?

K

[iaintscared1969]

Output shaft would need changing eitherway you went yota or NP203. Save yourself the headache and have a tranny shop do it. Unless you have torn apart a 4L60E of which has about 80 parts to it, it eats up time and that way if it doesn't work when it goes together the tranny shop will get to fix it! And get a TCI upgrade kit for the tranny while you are at it! Also depending on your oil pan there is a tab on the Pass. side right near the oil level sensor. Trim that down so it will give you a little more clearance and put a plug where the sensor used to be. Also plan on fabbing up a tranny mount like I do on mine. Your old one will not work. Don't forget to pick ouot a new shifter! One more thing is driveline work. Just more useless info for ya!

[WILLD420]

For wiring, look up WERTY on Reno4x4. He's been building harnesses for guys lately. He's pretty good at the electrical game and seems decent on his prices.

I think he's still working at Home Depot on the north end of Carson. His name is Matt.

[chicago]

Thanks for the resource.
I think im gonna stick with the set up iaintscared recommends.
Its set up for the 60 series ready to go.

K