My rear diff blew up. Advice

[DavidAW]

Originally Posted by 77cruiser

How long did it take you? It looks like I can just order everything from Spector or toyota for not a whole lot of coin...

I got the seal and nut for under 20$ from the local dealer.
Did it on vehicle in about 1hr.
Took a while to figure out how to drive the seal in, some say to use a large socket. I ended up using a square of 2x4 wood and slowly tapped it in straight.

According to the docs, you are supposed to hold the flange with a service tool then torque the stake nut to over 185lb. This is while the axle is up on stands. Good luck.
I ended up making a bar with 2 bolts thru it to hold the flange. It butted against the frame.
I had asked on MUD why you couldnt just use the park brake and weight of the vehicle to do the torque. Never got a good answer on that.

Do you have the FSM?

-Dave

[77cruiser]

Yeah.I have an Fsm. That nut sounds fun. I am sure its tough since your laying undernesth the truck too. I will probably do it first of next week so I will update...

The help on this has been great!

Last question, can I take the ARB out the back and fix the O-ring instead of taking out the 3rd member?

[krzyabncanuck]

Originally Posted by 77cruiser

Last question, can I take the ARB out the back and fix the O-ring instead of taking out the 3rd member?

Not that i know of and properly get to the round nut things ( can not think of name this early in the morning ) to set the backlash correctly. Could be wrong here because i have never tried, just always took the third out myself to check everything out.

[cruiser4life]

If you end up working on it at your place and need an extra set of hands let me know.

[krzyabncanuck]

It is later now and i still do not think it will work with it in. That backlash is VERY important. That will tell you how long your gears will last.

If this was me i would pull it out and work on it.

[Fort Knox]

Originally Posted by 77cruiser

yeah... theres an ARB in there... Blew the seals on it a couple months ago so it will get fixed during all of this mess....


So to answer my question it sounds like, YES I do have to completely removed the 3rd member?

In order to get the ARB seal housing off of the locker to replace the o-rings, you'll need to pull the 3rd member out.

[krzyabncanuck]

Its been about 15 years since i tore into one of those ARB's so i was not too sure about how all that looked inside anymore. We put one in a truck when they were first on the scene and the instructions were wrong and we had to call them about it.

[77cruiser]

I called up Rick at Ralph Hayes and I ordered probably more than i needed but I went ahead and got everything from the driveshaft flange to the last seal. I will prob end up returning most of it but I would rather have in case. It will be here wednesday. I hope to dive in Wed afternoon and get the 3rd pulled out. I got a little advice on how to do that today.

Wheels off, Drums off, remove C-clips, slide axles out and then unbolt 3rd...

Am i missing anything that I have to remove there?

[krzyabncanuck]

Maybe, just maybe the rear driveshaft.

[krzyabncanuck]

You know how to remove the c clips i suppose. Be surprised by alot that have never done it before.

[77cruiser]

I have never removed them(C-Clips) before, is there a trick i should know?

I know they were probably removed a couple years ago when the arb was set up but I am up for any advice you got...

[krzyabncanuck]

Push the axles in to remove them, and when you reinstall them make sure to pull the axles back out all the way. Whole job is Real easy to do.

[77cruiser]

I am pulling it all apart 100% tomorrow so no turning back. I will let you know how it goes. Darin thanks for all the quick advice thru this thread. Hopefully I can help shed some light for someone else down the road.

[krzyabncanuck]

Hopefully you have a way of setting the Backlash right ? That is very important as you will have the carrier out. I usually try to set mine about 8 thousanths. And i check it at about 4 places.

[77cruiser]

Setting backlash will be my next round of questions

So heres my update on my biggest mechanical venture to date. Got to the point where I needed to take the Pinion Shaft out so i could access the c-clips. Got screw pin out but couldnt figure out why the shaft wouldnt drop out. Theres a pin inside it that I need either a special ARB tool or i can get a 3" 6-32 machine screw and stick in there and pull the other pin out and it should release it. I called ARB thats how I got that info. Really helpful on their products by the way. The bad news of all this is that I did in fact find a couple teeth on the ring that are missing a small piece of metal which indicates to me when the last person set this thing up, they did it wrong. It doesnt look alarming but I am going to have a Real knowledgeable guy look at it and give me his opinion on replacing or not... I know what the "best" opinion is but I am on an extremely tight/non existant budget right now.

I should have it all out tomorrow... I hope... working at those weird angles is a bitch!

[Mtbcoach]

I'm no gear expert but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night...if you are missing material on the ring gear, you are right, not a good thing. I'd expect that you may indeed be learning more about backlash and setting up a fresh set of ring and pinion gears.

Sorry to hear that...

[krzyabncanuck]

Before you get this thing out do me a favor real fast. Grab the pinoin yoke with one hand and the ring gear with the other and see how much slop between the 2. Should only be a slight distance between the 2. But should also not be where there is non between the 2. You might be learning about pinion depth here also.

[77cruiser]

Tonight I got a 6-32 machine screw and got the little hidden pin out. I tapped the Pinion Shaft out with ease. It only comes out one side and when it comes out it is EXTREMELY close to the teeth on the ring gear. On one side its so tight it wont come out, the other side where I got it out is where the two pieces of metal are off almost as if whoever put this thing in chipped them off trying to get the thing in. I will snap pics to show
As Jerry mentioned, I also am not an expert, but I am guessing the pinion shaft and the teeth are not supposed to overlap.

Anyway, I got the c-clips off, axles out and 3rd out.... If I knew what I was doing this wouldve taken me maybe a couple hours, because I didnt it took me about 6. Its fun to learn. Its also a good opportunity to do some checking on my brakes. I dont think they work appropriately and I think it has to do with the LSPV not being set right so I am going to use the FSM to make sure.

I am going down to Cirbos house next Wed I think and we are going to throw this thing on the workbench and see what we can accomplish... I owe him more beers than I could repay in a lifetime....

[krzyabncanuck]

Now dependeing on you gear ratio, i have hed to take part of the ring teeth off to get the one bar in. It relly too early in the morning to remember names to this stuff.

[77cruiser]

4.88's... I have seen the references of having to do some grinding to get the stuff set. I have heard its even more on the 5.29s but I didnt read into it enough to know where that grinding actually took place. Maybe I just figured it out. There is no other wear at all anywhere else other than just that one spot. If it wasnt ground then the pinion shaft wouldnt have gone in or come out.

[krzyabncanuck]

That spot has to be ground down on the 4.88 and higher.

[77cruiser]

HUGE SIGH of Relief... Thats def it. I got all the seals today from Toyota so hopefully next week I can put this thread to rest!

[krzyabncanuck]

That part should be smooth, if not it needs to be made smooth.

[krzyabncanuck]

Now that i think of it, i had to grind a bit on my 4.56 gears also, but not as much. Got to grind alot on 5.29's.

[77cruiser]

Pinion seal is replaced and ARB should actuate now. Started with the ARB. Using a air compressor we(cirbo) shot air into the valve where the Arb compressor lines to into the 3rd. We could see that the teeth were moving correct etc but also were able to see that air was in fact escaping thru the bottom half of the o-ring(actually called quad rings). We removed them but didnt see any damage that indicated that they were bad. At any rate still put in 2 new ones from ARB. Put it all back together and shot air... still leaking. Got ARB Tech on the phone... He walked thru a couple different ideas but in the end the problem was that the clip on the top that holds the stuf(name of part escapes me, its ventillated and the clip has a tooth that goes into it)f in place, when tightened down was bent too much and was causing the housing for the o-rings to move outward creating just enough of a void to allow air to escape... Put in on the metal break and re-bent it a little bit, screwed it back into place and BAM... Seal was tight and when air went in it stay and locker was actuated. Before I put 3rd back into truck this weekend I am going to hook it up to compressor and make sure that the air seal is still tight but i dont expect a hiccup. Checked backlash, run out, and used the gear grease to ensure the teeth were hitting where they should. all in great shape.

The Pinon seal was next. Removed it and saw that when it had been put back together, it had been painted with some pretty thick black paint. over time that paint had started to chip away from the rubber seal and the flange parts also allowing a very small void to allow oil to pass thru and spray everywhere... Replaced the seal, tapped it into place and everything is ready to go!

Thanks To Cirbo for the patience and explanation as we did it all step by step. I know fully understand the meaning of all the terms and steps used in setting up and discussing diffs... at least most of them

3rd goes back in hopefully this weekend...
Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I can return the favor and help someone when they need it.

[krzyabncanuck]

Glad you were able to get it all done. When i start back up on the Hooptie or any of my other projects soon you or anyone else is more than welcome to come learn / help.

[77cruiser]

sounds great!